How much to remove when sanding oak floor

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  #1  
Old 04-23-13, 08:21 PM
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How much to remove when sanding oak floor

First time refinishing a hardwood floor. Did tons of research but can't find answers to these questions:
1. When sanding, must you remove all traces of previous stain, i.e. what remains in the grain after sanding off the old polyurethane finish?
2. The stain does not remove easily. If I remove all traces of stain left in the grain, I run into what appears to be wood filler and it becomes damaged in the process. Must the wood filler then be completely removed in order to get good results when the new stain is applied?
3. Is there any reason to apply a pre-stain wood conditioner to oak?
 
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Old 04-24-13, 03:06 AM
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Welcome to the forums!. If you plan on re-staining the floor, you basically need to remove the finish (polyurethane), making a smooth surface, then re-stain it, allow to dry, then reapply polyurethane floor finish. Is this actually 3/4" hardwood, or is it engineered flooring. Not sure what the filler thingy is. Maybe you could post a picture or two of the floor so we could see what you see. http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...your-post.html
 
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Old 04-24-13, 04:04 AM
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How close is the new stain color to the existing finish color? Generally it's best to remove all signs of the existing finish. Wood conditioner isn't needed with oak.
 
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Old 05-01-13, 01:19 PM
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The new stain is slightly lighter, I think, than the original. I have removed all signs of the existing finish if that means the polyurethane. But I still have the problem of whatever the mystery substance is, along with concerns about how evenly the new stain will go on top of whatever that mystery substance is. I attached photos to the response below from Chandler.
 
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Old 05-01-13, 01:23 PM
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Old 05-01-13, 01:33 PM
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Upon review, the floor is an engineered wood with plenty of the top layer left. It is, however, in bad shape in some spots.
In sanding down to bare wood, I found that what that mystery substance covered, in some cases, was knots or other surface imperfections, all of which I find interesting and which adds to the character. But, there is A LOT of it, entire boards! and it is hard to sand off.
I attached photos to this post to give you a better idea of what I am trying to say.
I am VERY interested in a good solution because I still have an adjacent hallway to refinish after I finish the bathroom.
 
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Old 05-02-13, 10:23 PM
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That's weird. I see the photos when I look at the post. I followed the instructions in the link you provided, uploading directly to the DIY site from my computer. Must I use a third party site to upload photos?
 
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Old 05-03-13, 03:00 AM
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Pix are here. We're just scrutinizing them. It is possible you have a "whitewashed" stain which remains light colored and embedded in the grains of the wood. I would try staining in an inconspicuous place, like in the corner of a closet to see how the stain you choose will cover. If you like the color you have, then application of a floor polyurethane would enhance it.
 
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