Staining/Refinishing Hardwood floor

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Old 05-08-13, 02:05 PM
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Staining/Refinishing Hardwood floor

Im in a rental house and had permission to make some improvements, so I pulled the old carpet up (two layers of it) and under the bottom layer the carpet pad had been applied straight over the Pine hardwood flooring. Since its a rental house and not my own I rented a hardwood refinisher and quickly sanded and removed the old stain and the damage made from the carpet.

To be honest the refinishing and sanding wasnt the worlds most spectacular job because its not my home. I have finished the floors "Ebony Minwax", I've never done hardwood floors before so I did not know I was supposed to remove the excess Stain, so my floor is still a bit tacky (I've stained less than 16 hours ago) so I know i need to wait for the Urethane, but if my floor is still tacky do I absolutely have to remove the excess stain before I apply the "Fast-Drying Minwax Polyurethane" and can I apply it with a paint roller? I'm not expecting professional perfect finish, I just want to put the Urethane on so I can finally move into my room and stop sleeping on this little couch.
 
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Old 05-08-13, 02:22 PM
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Try using a rag dampened with mineral spirits to remove the excess stain. If you just keep the rag damp and not dripping with the mineral spirits it shouldn't take off much but the tacky part of the stain. I'd use the oderless mineral spirits.

Let this dry for 24 hours (with ventilation if at all possible and see if the stain is now acceptable. If it is then go ahead with the poly. I think a pad would be better than a roller. Be sure to lay an even coat of poly.
 
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Old 05-08-13, 02:25 PM
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The poly can be applied with a roller but a pad will do a nicer looking job. I agree with using a damp thinner rag to remove the excess stain.
 
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Old 05-08-13, 02:56 PM
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Thanks for the info about the Mineral spirits there's alot of mixed opinions from people about its use and application.

I'm going to apply two coats of poly, would the first coat be okay if it was applied with a roller and then the second coat would be applied with lambskin? Would this be a better idea? I can absolutely wait 72 more hours if it means a much more impressive and attractive finish, especially since its a dark stain and is already showing my amateur sanding job.
 
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Old 05-08-13, 03:23 PM
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How much stain you will remove will depend on how wet the rag and how how vigorous you are with it. I would try to use as little mineral spirits as necessary to get the desired look and rub only hard enough to get that look.

As for the roller...I don't know, I've only used a brush and a pad for polyurethane.
 
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Old 05-08-13, 03:36 PM
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My gut tells me he should plan on a intermediary step to even out the stain. He will be rubbing with MSpirits and will have light spots, dark spots and a generally splotchy look. I would schedule time to rub a consistent finish of stain on prior to the poly. Yes it would add an additional step, but you will be happier with the finished product. (hint....mop up excess stain as you go)

Use a Floor grade poly. Minwax makes one that is readily available in the box stores.

Poly should be put on in multiple light coats, I personally would shy away from a roller.
 
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Old 05-08-13, 04:03 PM
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Thanks for the responses, like I said I've never done hardwood so I'm very unfamiliar with the steps but I want to learn/do it myself, Tile is a much simpler science too me.
 
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Old 05-09-13, 03:33 AM
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While I wouldn't use a roller, you can switch back and forth from roller to pad. You do need to sand lightly [and remove dust] between coats of poly, mostly for adhesion but it will also produce a nicer/slicker finish.
 
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Old 05-09-13, 11:24 PM
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Yes you can use a roller at first and them the lambs wool. If the floor looks.....amateurish now, remember the glossier the finish the more it will highlight your mistakes. Please be sure the floor is dry first. The finish will pull some stain off it is not dry and its down hill from there. Good luck.
 
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