Subfloor install questions
#1
06-14-13, 05:41 AM
Subfloor install questions
I bought 7/16" OSB to lay over the old oak hardwood floor before laying the mannington engineered hardwood floor we've purchased. We also bought the glue from mannington to glue the new floor down as recommended. But have some questions:
1. For glueing the new hardwood down, which is best side to have looking up, the smooth or the rough?
2. To eliminate squeeks in present floor, will I need to screw each sheet of the OSB into the floor joists or will screwing it into the oak be sufficient?
3. Will I need to leave a gap at the edge of the new subfloor and hardwood floor since I'm glueing?
I was also told to put some glue on the backside of each OSB board to glue to the oak. Good advice or not?
Thanks in advance.
zack
1. For glueing the new hardwood down, which is best side to have looking up, the smooth or the rough?
2. To eliminate squeeks in present floor, will I need to screw each sheet of the OSB into the floor joists or will screwing it into the oak be sufficient?
3. Will I need to leave a gap at the edge of the new subfloor and hardwood floor since I'm glueing?
I was also told to put some glue on the backside of each OSB board to glue to the oak. Good advice or not?
Thanks in advance.
zack
#2
06-14-13, 01:53 PM
Member
I'm not sure you need the OSB at all. Give us some more specifics with regard to the floor make-up under the oak. Size of joist, length of largest span, what is under the oak, etc.
What size engineered flooring are you using? How thick and how wide are the planks. Also , how wide are the oak planks in your current floor.
What size engineered flooring are you using? How thick and how wide are the planks. Also , how wide are the oak planks in your current floor.
#3
06-14-13, 03:03 PM
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
What's rasing the level of the floor that high going to do to all your door openings, and any other flooring it meets?
Why would you not just refinish the flooring that there now?
Why OSB and not plywood?
Why would you not just refinish the flooring that there now?
Why OSB and not plywood?
#4
06-14-13, 04:04 PM
Chose OSB d/t cost. Only 1 door to have to trim. Other rooms will be lower floors, bought some molding for the step up. Longest span is 15'. Floor joists are 8", width I'm not sure of without crawling under the house. House was built in 1930's, subfloor is pine, oak is 2" wide. The oak floor has taken a beating over the years, blood, after birth, urine, you get the idea. There are some creaky areas in the current floor that gives a bit when the right spot is stepped on and hoping the OSB will take care of that. The new flooring is engineered Mannington Hickory, 5" wide, 3/8" thick. Here's a link: Wood Floors, Hardwood Floors - Mannington Flooring
Thank you,
zack
Thank you,
zack
#5
06-15-13, 10:43 AM
Member
"Creaky areas" are caused by nails that have worked themselves loose. Most likely it is the nails that hold the pine planks to the floor joists. Glueing additional OSB or laying planks on top of it will do nothing to quiet the floor. You need to determine where the squeeks are and screw the whole floor down to the joists to stop the sqeaks. As it is in oak I would predrill before screwing. Use exterior deck screws and under no circumstances are you to use drywall screws in flooring.
Looking at your floor choice, I would opt for a floating installation instead of a glue down. You have to add an foam type underlayment/sound deadening but you would save by not having to use the OSB. Your glue will be a lot cheaper as well. Get some engineered glue for a floating installation (looks like elmers). You squeeze a bead into the groove on two sides and slide the planks together. After a few rows you use some blue tape to hold the sections from moving until the glue sets up.
Looking at your floor choice, I would opt for a floating installation instead of a glue down. You have to add an foam type underlayment/sound deadening but you would save by not having to use the OSB. Your glue will be a lot cheaper as well. Get some engineered glue for a floating installation (looks like elmers). You squeeze a bead into the groove on two sides and slide the planks together. After a few rows you use some blue tape to hold the sections from moving until the glue sets up.
