Laminate Direction?

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  #1  
Old 08-27-13, 07:23 AM
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Question Laminate Direction?

I need help. I'm laying laminate on the second floor of my house. I want it to carry through the entire first floor with no transitional pieces. I feel like I have made a fatal flaw already from what I'm reading online. When thinking about carrying the laminate from my office (which I have already laid) to the nursery, I realized I will be going in reverse. Same thing with the master bedroom down the hall. Is there any way to lay laminate in reverse? I can lay in reverse with the scrap pieces I have. They lock together fine. And now that I think about it, I don't believe there is a way no matter which direction I began the laminate to carry through without hitting a reverse section somewhere.

If I am going to lay in reverse and there is no way to lock the board together, can I cut the locking mechanism off the tongue of each board and glue them together?

I sketched part of my dilemma

[ATTACH=CONFIG]16868[/ATTACH]
 
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Last edited by jpbova; 08-27-13 at 07:46 AM.
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  #2  
Old 08-27-13, 07:51 AM
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While I'm no expert in the field of flooring, I have laid a good handful of floors of houses in laminate with a friend.

I've never, ever seen an entire floor of a house laid out with no transition pieces using laminate.

There is no way you could cut the locking bits off of each board and glue them together. It will never hold and I would consider it miraculous if you could do it without getting any glue onto the visible face of the boards.
 
  #3  
Old 08-27-13, 08:02 AM
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I figured the glue idea wouldn't work. However, on my scrap pieces, I can take the laid male end and the unlaid female end and get them to lock. Which is the reverse of the way you are suppose to do it. So, you should be able to lay laminate in reverse, correct?

As long as you are able to lay in reverse, you should be able to finish an entire floor of a house with no transitional pieces
 

Last edited by jpbova; 08-27-13 at 08:38 AM.
  #4  
Old 08-27-13, 12:28 PM
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Take some decent measurements from the office which you already have put down. Use a starter row that is slightly wider (1") than the office and lay the entire floor up until you come to where the two floors will meet. Remove the starter row in the nursery and using scraps and a pry bar, begin to shift the nursery floor around until it matches with the Office floor and marry the two floors together at the Nursery door transition to the beginning of the hallway. Bridge the gap and connect the two floors together.

Then return the starter course in the Nursery, re-measure and cut to the new correct size. On the starter row you CAN cut the bump off of the groove side and glue it to the main floor. It will receive little use being up against the wall and under the moldings. You need to get a glue that is rated for flooring applications. There is a engineered floating floor glue (says it on the front of the label) that is available in the box store in the flooring department. It looks like Elmer's but is different. Squeeze a bead on the groove side of the starter course and install. Have a damp towel handy to immediately wipe any that oozes out. Then take blue painters tape and tape across the seams every foot and span it completely past the next row. This will keep the starter row from shifting and let it sit overnight. Gently use a pry bar to assist with getting in the backwards starter row.

Good Luck and have a partner ready to help with the shifting of the floors to meet at the transitions.

FYI (others) I have floated complete floors both real wood and engineered together without any clicklock mechanism with great success. Proper prep with proper procedures and proper glue = solid floor.
 
  #5  
Old 09-01-13, 06:50 AM
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I laid the entire nursery in reverse yesterday, or backfilled it, without a hitch. With Pergo style tongue and groove locking mechanism, you can lay in reverse.

No transitional pieces and no breaks. Just seamless flow from room to room
 
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