How To Restore Damaged Door Sill

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  #1  
Old 09-12-13, 05:03 PM
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How To Restore Damaged Door Sill

I just got done replacing some water damaged engineered flooring that ran up to a patio door.

I had to pull up the maple door sill in order to do this which was also damaged by water as pictured below:

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I want to restore this door sill, what's the best way to go about this? Thank you!
 
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  #2  
Old 09-12-13, 05:20 PM
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Let me guess, someone broke rule #1 in home building 101 and build the patio even with the doors threshold.
It needed to be built at least 6" below it.
That boards so molded up I'd replace it and this time seal it on all sides with at least three coats of marine varnish.
 
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Old 09-12-13, 05:37 PM
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Welcome to the forums! Do you need this full width? If not, could you rip off the damaged edge, sand it down, refinish it and, as Joe says, varnish it all around.
 
  #4  
Old 09-12-13, 07:38 PM
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If I decide to replace it, where would I go to get a replacement? Do the big box stores carry it and could I get it to match my trim like it does today?

If I decide to, I could potentially cut about an inch off.

Could I just hand sand it down?

What sort of finish would I use?

Then use something like Rust-Oleum Marine Varnish 3x?
 
  #5  
Old 09-12-13, 07:59 PM
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I'd also suggest you replace it. Box stores will have an aisle with the "nice wood" usually all sorted according to species and dimension. Sometimes it will be wrapped in shrink wrap too. Maple should be easy to find. It won't have the routered edge, but if you want that, you could put that on easy enough with a router and bit, or else just get some quarter round or base shoe and trim the edges with that to give you the rounded look. You would probably need a table saw to rip the board to the exact width you need, because the boards will only come in predetermined widths. a 1x4 is 3 1/2" wide. A 1x6 is 5 1/2" wide, etc.

For the finish, I can't really tell the color of the stain. You'd be wise to cut a short piece of it off and take it to the store with you if you wanted to pick out a stain that will match. Then for the clear coat of finish, several coats of spar varnish would work, but usually 3 coats of polyurethane will be your best bet for a hard durable finish.

I would suggest that you stain and poly 3 sides of the wood, to protect the edge that's against the door. The reason it failed was likely because the stain and finish was applied AFTER the trim was installed, leaving a bare edge (the edge that meets the door) that could soak up water if it ever got wet. (such as when the screen mistakenly gets left open and it rains).
 
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Old 09-13-13, 02:27 AM
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Ah, I see the board is a "sill", and not just part of the flooring, or trim. Yes, replace it if possible, as you need the full width. We don't see many maple sills here.
 
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