Splicing pre-finished stair nosing?


Old 10-25-13, 01:03 PM
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Splicing pre-finished stair nosing?

I have a dilemma related to finishing the wood floor at my house. The entire first floor is to be done in 5/8” x 3 1/4” stranded bamboo. I want to extend the same flooring up the stairs (typical white painted risers, wood treads).

The problem:
- The stairs are 37 1/2” wide (from skirt board to skirt board).
- The pre-finished stair nosings (that match my flooring) ONLY come in 72” lengths (one piece of stair nosing will not cover two steps).

Back ground info:
- I have typical ‘switch back’ steps.
- 7 risers to a 3’ x 7’ landing (that will also have matching wood floor).
- 6 risers to carpet (last nosing will be carpet wrapped).
- 1 riser / nosing at the 1st floor > basement steps.

I already have all the wood for the 1st floor.
I will need to purchase (all matching my existing flooring):
- 14 nosings.
- Enough flooring to cover the landing.
- Enough flooring to cover the steps (behind the nosing).
Getting the material is not really a problem. The color has been discontinued but there is enough in stock to do what I need.

Restating the problem:
- One piece of stair nosing will not cover two steps.

My options:
A) Tack the 2x10 nosing back and put the carpet back on.
- This makes me sad just thinking about it.
B) Find a 39” wide bamboo tread that matches / or have it match my flooring.
- Love to, but at around $100, plus I still have to buy two pieces of nosing (one for the 1st floor > basement step and the second for the top first leg of stairs > landing)
C) Buy a 6’ piece of nosing per step and waste 47% of it
- At $11 linear foot, that’s $66 of nosing per step with $31 going in the dumpster
D) Splice the nosing.
I don’t think the rough steps are straight enough to ‘build’ the treads in place. Here is my idea for making a ‘tread’:
- Cut 1/4” particle board (not OSB, same stuff Formica counters are made from) to roughly 39”w X 11”d.
- I’m able to put a (virtually perfect) straight edge on the nose side of the particle board.
- Cut a 12” piece of nosing perpendicular to the long side of the tread but at a bevel.
- The nosing is L-shaped, 5/8” thick X 3 ½” deep with a 1” bull nose in the front. So the back side of the bull nose would offer a straight edge.
- Glue and clamp this piece of nosing to the particle board (ensuring the back of the bull nose is tight against the ‘perfect’ straight edge of the particle board)
- Maybe tack it from underneath, let it dry.
- Cut a 27” piece of nosing perpendicular to the long side of the tread but at a bevel.
- Glue and clamp this piece of nosing to the particle board alongside the first.
- Maybe tack it from underneath, let it dry.
- Cover the remaining particle board with the tongue and groove flooring (glue and clamp).
- Maybe tack it from underneath, let it dry.
- Measure and cut my newly created ‘tread’ to fit the step.
- Glue (bottom side of particle board to 2x10 tread) and face nail through the whole ‘tread’ accordingly.
E) Other option?

Thanks for your time.
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Old 10-25-13, 03:23 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: USA
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I would widen your search to include colors that are either complimentary of very similar to your current flooring and purchase stair nosing in 78" lengths. You can find these lengths all over the internet if you do a simple search. Splicing stair nosing can be a trip hazard as this is the point where the majority of force in exerted on the tread itself. I also would note that you probably would want a piece of plywood/OSB under the flooring for support anyway. I would glue and shoot your field planks on the treads and screw/glue/countersink and plug your nosing. But definitely widen your search to find a 78" wide nosing that will compliment your floor.

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