installing engineered t&G floating flooring

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Old 12-01-13, 06:15 AM
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Post installing engineered t&G floating flooring

I just purchased 500 sq ft of 3/8 eng t&g hardwood flooring. I plan on installing this over my 3/4 plywood subfloor with the required underlayment. I am floating the floor by glueing the joints as specified by the manufacturer. The flooring is random width 3", 5" and 6.5". I did a dry run (practice) before I move onto glueing the joints. The flooring is flexing at spots due to the bowing in the floor. As soon as I step on the floor you can feel the floor flex at spots. Is there anyway I can prevent this other that using the staple or nail down method. Thank you
 
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Old 12-01-13, 07:05 AM
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Welcome to the forums! Sad to say, glue up flooring is probably the last flooring I would install, unless it was laminate. Which floor is bowing? The subfloor or the new engineered? If the subflooring is dipping, then the best thing would be to lay in Self Leveling Compound to make the floor flat, taking out the dips.

You do not, absolutely, do not want to fasten the floating floor with a staple or other mechanical fastener. The floor must float from edge to edge and you must leave about 3/8 to 1/2" gap on the edges for the floor to expand. Your baseboard and shoe molding will cover it. Don't forget to undercut all your door stiles so you can slip the flooring under it.
 
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Old 12-01-13, 07:49 AM
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engineered hardwood

The new engineered hardwood is bowing, no dips in the 3/4 plywood subfloor. When I take the engineered hardwood out of the box the wood is bowed about 3/4" from one end to the other end of each board, each board is about 4 ft long. When I interlock the t&g of alternate boards it takes most of the bow out. But some of the areas still hold some boards up off of the subfloor and when you walk on the floor you can feel it flex under your foot. The manufactures instructions say that the floor can be glued, floated or stapled to the subfloor

thanks for the help
 
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Old 12-01-13, 09:36 AM
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Oh, OK, it is bowing out of the box. How long have you let it acclimate in your house?? 72 hours minimum. Engineered flooring should not be warped once it is acclimated. Laminate may. Got pictures? May help garner better advice from the others. http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...your-post.html
 
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Old 12-01-13, 10:25 AM
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Is the bowing consistent throughout all boxes or is it relegated to the test box you opened. Unless you purchased it on closeout, I would be inclined to return the wood for a better lot. Either excess moisture or improper storage would cause that product to be warped out of the box. Most flooring is rock solid straight as an arrow right out of the box. Fighting a bow will make the install more complicated.
 
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Old 12-01-13, 11:19 AM
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Post bowing hardwood

all the boxes are bowed, I guess I should say banannaed, banannaed the legth of the wood, not the width. The flooring is from a quality manufacturer, Anderson, The wood is in the house about 48 hours. I do have the wood stored in the room where it is going to be installed, the room also has a wood burner in it. I laid a little more today (dry) no glue, no staples, just for layout purpose. Believe it or not the floor seems to be laying a little flatter. I have appx 1/2 of the floor laid out dry. There are still some flimsy, soft spots. Do you think this will go away when I glue all of the t&g joints? Or do you think I should staple the floor down. The manufacturer said in the instructions that if I staple the floor down it should be stapled every 3 to 4 inches. I would rather glue the joints but with the way the floor is bowed I am afraid the glue will fail
 
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Old 12-01-13, 02:54 PM
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I would do nothing but return it if it's bowed.
I've had the same issue with Bruce flooring.
 
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