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Detached garage wood flooring


mikecurranto's Avatar
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Join Date: Dec 2013
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RI

12-22-13, 06:57 AM   #1  
Detached garage wood flooring

I am rebuilding and converting my 90 year old, wood framed, detached garage to a woodworking shop. 10' x 20'.
I live in Cranston, Rhode Island.
Winter set in and I ripped a bicep tendon, so project is stalled til March.

I am using 3/4 x 5" T&G southern yellow pine on the floor and 3/4 x 6 7/8" T&G eastern white pine on walls and ceiling.

Floor: Currently its a cement floor. No water issues in 30 years I've been here.
Should I spread plastic sheeting over the entire cement floor? How many mils? Do the edges need to be sealed?
Lay pressure treated 2 x 4's over the cement and secure to the cement? Lay on edge or flat?
Cover the 2 by's with 23/32 in. x 4 ft. x 8 ft. OSB Tongue and Groove Flooring Board from HD? Or do I need 3/4" plywood?
I'll be edge nailing the pine with a rented floor nailer.
Water or oil based poly? Thinking oil as it has more flexibility. Will have a small heater for winters. One of those oil filled heaters. Not a toaster with a fan.

Walls and ceiling: Face nail with cut nails to the 2x4 15" centered studs on the wall. 2 nails per stud. Do I need a vapor barrier? I'll be adding fiberglass insulation between studs.
Adding 2x6 ceiling joists 15" on center for ceiling nailers. I'll be hanging a heavy dust collector from the ceiling. Thinking I'll need 2 2x8's for the extra weight load. Adding 18" of insulation on top of ceiling. Vapor barrier? Area above insulation will be vented.
Thanks.
Mike

 
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12-22-13, 07:04 AM   #2  
Oh yeah. Removing the overhead door and adding 2 shop built carriage doors.
Preview - Dress Up a Garage Door with Insulated Carriage Doors - Fine Homebuilding Article

 
marksr's Avatar
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12-22-13, 11:23 AM   #3  
Any particular reason for putting down a wood floor? the concrete would be more durable

Oil base poly/varnish dries to a harder film than water based does which generally equates to longer wear. A satin finish will show wear less than a gloss finish will. Oil will deepen the colors naturally in the wood and amber some as it ages. Water based poly doesn't change the look of the wood any other than give it a sheen.


retired painter/contractor avid DIYer

 
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12-22-13, 12:07 PM   #4  
Yes, the reason for the wood floor is...
1. The cement is pitted here and there.
2. It's stained with used motor oil.
3. I don't like cement floors.

Hey, it's a woodworking shop. Standing on cement floors for hours is hard on the feet. Wood tends to move a bit. My shop is on the old concrete basement floor now. I'm not happy with it.

I live in an old Craftsman house with oak and fir floors, wide door and window trim, and, ugghh, vinyl windows. First project in the new shop, build new wood sashes for the house.

So yeah, I really like nice wood and I'm not gunna live forever. Some day some guy is gunna fall in love with the garage as his man cave. Since it doesn't fit any cars wider than a model T, I want the building to look nice and be practical.

But I could really use some advice on the installation of the floors and walls. Don't want to do it twice.

 
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12-22-13, 12:09 PM   #5  
I know what you mean about wood floors being easier on the legs/feet. Unfortunately I don't know much about installing wood floors over concrete BUT there are others here that do .... so stay tuned and see what they have to say.


retired painter/contractor avid DIYer

 
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12-22-13, 12:55 PM   #6  
Here's a few pics. See the floor pic. The slab is lower than footing. I suppose I should seal the gap between them. Silicone?
Had to cut off the old ever hanging roof. They should be fun to rebuild!
Should I use PT 2x4's to marry to the roof rafters?

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