Another "which direction" question...

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Old 02-21-14, 08:20 PM
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Cool Another "which direction" question...

If anyone is listening, I'm laying down laminate in a few weeks and am still struggling to decide on which direction to lay it. The light goes north/south, but so do the joists underneath. I thought I might attach a rough layout diagram and if anyone had 2 secs to throw their opinion I would huge appreciate it. I want to do the whole floor in one pattern/direction, so once I figure out how to start...the rest comes easy (ish). And as you'll see, from the front door entrance there is a direct line to the opposite wall patio doors. Should that be the definite long line? But then I'm running parallel with the joists? Although I'm going to have it all on plywood with at least 3/8-1/2" particle board on top, on the main level of a two story. My head hurts...

Big Thanks!!
 
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Old 02-21-14, 09:13 PM
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Your laminate flooring is floating and not being nailed down direction is most commonly the length of the house when doing the whole house or the the direction of the light if doing a single room( like the living room)
 
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Old 02-22-14, 07:02 AM
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Sure...but then I'm running the boards parallel with the joists (which I keep reading is bad). Is that a bad idea even though I have the extra particle board in there for support?
 
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Old 02-22-14, 10:25 AM
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Thanks for the response by the way SA TX Bebo.

The more I look and think about this one...I'm going to be filling in where the carpet was with particle board (or similar), laying it perpendicular with the existing plywood, strengthening the floor...so it is level with areas with lino. So then I shouldn't need to worry about running the laminate flooring parallel with the joists.

The question remaining is that if I run the flooring parallel with the joists, then it will run from my front door the full length of the house to the back patio; creating what one friend called a "bowling alley" effect. Is that as bad as it sounds?
 
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Old 02-22-14, 01:52 PM
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I you are adding additional subfloor underlayment, do not bother with particle board. I've ripped out enough to know that it is garbage and can't for the life of me understand why it is still on the market other than for someone to fill in a repair. Instead, use a quality underlayment like Advantech or equivalent that is designed to be superior to others. If you add 3/4" advantech to your flooring, then I believe going parallel to the joist should not be an issue. If you just have one layer, I would suggest against. Where linoleum was, you need to remove the 1/4" underlayment before adding the 3/4".

Laminates have limits as to how long of a continuous run you can have. Therefore, to break up the floor, transition pieces are used at the thresholds of each room. This has to do with expansion and contraction control. Laminate is also a poor candidate for a wet area such as a kitchen. Moisture will cause the laminate to buckle and delaminate (no pun intended). If the kitchen area is a must have, then purchase an extra case or two and have handy should repairs need to be made in the kitchen.
 
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Old 02-22-14, 03:51 PM
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Great info czizzi thanks!!

The main reason I was 'filling in' the other areas to start with is I didn't want the nightmare of pulling out the 3/8" that's under the lino right now. So I thought I would just lay down some 3/8 in the old carpet areas...and then I should be about level everywhere. Bad idea?

Also, even if my front room kitchen area flow together through only one opening, you would still stop it with a transition (that would have an inevitable raised lip at the doorway) then flow straight on through? Is it because over time that long straight line would curve, or it's harder to expand because of the weight? It would be about 25-28 feet long max from front door to kitchen patio.

And in the kitchen...the direction I think I'll be laying everything will put the final right corner right beside my sink (which would be the biggest worry for water damage) making it easier to pull and replace right? I'll definitely keep a couple cases.

I'm slowly getting the idea. Super appreciate the feedback. Flooring is already delivered, just need the leveling done and then pick up underlay supplies. Gonna be exhausting!!
 
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Old 02-22-14, 04:25 PM
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Adding a series of thin layers will never be as strong as laying one thick layer. Sandwich in a flimsy layer of linoleum and it throws another cushion into the mix. Flooring is about doing the right thing, not the easiest. Now knowing the age of the house or condition, can't make a call on how hard it will be to get up the linoleum. Sometimes its a cake, others its a bear. If you get the top layer off, a circular saw set at 1/4" and run 1 1/2" from the nail runs will allow you to get about 12" of non-nailed flooring as a lever to help bend over the nails so you can get under them.

Interesting short video on strength of flooring materials:
AdvanTech vs. Competitor OSB Plywood Strength Test - Glenbrook U - YouTube

Laminate expands a lot, Over 28 to 30 feet the expansion/contraction will be tough to handle and some buckling may occur. Best to be on the safe side, all laminate goes in with transition pieces. If you were to upgrade to a more stable product light engineered hardwood we would be talking differently. Carefully read the install instructions as problems on an improper install will void any warranty.
 
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