Laminate floor under Shower stall
#1
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Not a toilet, but a shower stall. Can it sit on top of a laminate floor that's supposed to float? No screws or bolts going through the planks; just a hole for the drain.
I'm going to redo our en-suite bathroom. Space for the shower stall is tight and so far the only enclosure we like has a quarter-round footprint. Wife hates tile so I want to put down a floating vinyl laminate click floor with kitchen/bathroom rating, but am concerned about:
1. Properly cutting the floor planks for the quarter arc. (Yes, I know to make a paper template, put the planks together and do the cut using the template but still question whether I can get it right. Any tips?
2. Covering the required floating floor gap between the floor and the shower base. The flooring guy at Lowes said to glue plastic quarter-round to the shower base, but I couldn't find any in their molding section. Is it really flexible enough?
ISTM an easier nicer-looking approach would be to first put down the floor in that corner and then place the shower stall on top of it. I realize that this part of the floor would no longer float, but the same can be said for heavy furniture and media centers in rec rooms and other areas where click floors are often used. What's the difference between an 85 lb shower stall and a 100 lb+ pool table? Any tips or thoughts on how crazy I'd be to do this? Thanks
I'm going to redo our en-suite bathroom. Space for the shower stall is tight and so far the only enclosure we like has a quarter-round footprint. Wife hates tile so I want to put down a floating vinyl laminate click floor with kitchen/bathroom rating, but am concerned about:
1. Properly cutting the floor planks for the quarter arc. (Yes, I know to make a paper template, put the planks together and do the cut using the template but still question whether I can get it right. Any tips?
2. Covering the required floating floor gap between the floor and the shower base. The flooring guy at Lowes said to glue plastic quarter-round to the shower base, but I couldn't find any in their molding section. Is it really flexible enough?
ISTM an easier nicer-looking approach would be to first put down the floor in that corner and then place the shower stall on top of it. I realize that this part of the floor would no longer float, but the same can be said for heavy furniture and media centers in rec rooms and other areas where click floors are often used. What's the difference between an 85 lb shower stall and a 100 lb+ pool table? Any tips or thoughts on how crazy I'd be to do this? Thanks
#2
You have used some terms that may need clarification....floating.....vinyl....laminate...click.
What brand are you putting down. Is it really vinyl and is it really click lock?? Short answer to your question is no. I would not put a pool table on laminate in the first place, so that's out.
What brand are you putting down. Is it really vinyl and is it really click lock?? Short answer to your question is no. I would not put a pool table on laminate in the first place, so that's out.
#3
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I haven't gone floor shopping yet so no brand in mind. But an example would be the Shaw Matrix vinyl planks at:
Shop Floating Vinyl Plank at Lowes.com!
Shop Floating Vinyl Plank at Lowes.com!
#4
You would be far better off with a sheet good then the strips.
No seams to leak, could be laid under the shower pan, a whole lot less work to install.
No seams to leak, could be laid under the shower pan, a whole lot less work to install.
#5
A floating floor needs to float, do not put it under the shower pan. The floor is the last thing to go in, not the first. You will need to leave an expansion gap at the pan per manufacturer recommendations on whatever floor you choose. Therefore, you need not be perfect with the install, but will cover the edge with molding. Check at some building supply stores for flexible moldings that will easily bend around your shower pan. Don't know if you can get them at the box stores.
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Thanks. I found flexible white plastic molding at a local building supply store. The guy agreed that using glue could be dicey because working so close to the floor is awkward and if I accidentally get any glue on the shower base, the solvent used to remove it could mar the acrylic surface. He pointed out that there's a lot of space between the base wall and the shower pan, and suggested using a few small white screws to attach the molding to the curved base. before doing that I might try double-sided tape.