Need help feathering hardwood floor

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  #1  
Old 04-17-14, 12:34 PM
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Need help feathering hardwood floor

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OK so ill start by asking for pity since this is my first home, and this was my first of many to come (im sure) boneheaded moves.

My uncle painted my living room (22'x12') with a sprayer. He got significant paint on the floors. I had a lot of projects going on, so instead of taking the time and hands&kneesing it with hot water and time, i took a shortcut. I went to home depot to get either goof off or denatured alcohol to help speed the process up. The guy ended up swearing by this new product and saying how much better it would be for what im doing (blah blah) and i bought it. It turned out it was a stripper (citristrip) yes its even in the name and i didnt think about it...

I came home and was doing another project and my GF opened it up and put it on the areas that had paint. We cleaned it up, and everything looked awesome. Next day i come home to realize it ate through the varnish and my floor looked like a leopard.

Adding to the issue, I had a fairly large wear spot in the room that was dark. There are some pet spots in the room as well. After weeks of contemplating ive decided against just having the floors redone, not in the budget. My plan is to DIY and try to patch and feather the spots. Almost all of them will have furniture over them, or molding. So Im not overly concerned as long as I can get it close.

I believe the floors are not stained, only clear coated (tell me if im wrong).

my plan was to steel wool the spots, coat of poly. let it dry, steel wool, poly, and repeat.

If you can see the large area that i ended up taking a palm sander to, that was the dark wear spot, with a big scratch in the middle. That area is much lighter then the surrounding wood, so im wondering if i should try and feather in a stain before i clear coat it. Thoughts?

Here is the link to 10 photos

https://www.dropbox.com/sc/it2sjezit4qg42p/qixwBHhkJv
 

Last edited by bclizzle; 04-17-14 at 01:46 PM.
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  #2  
Old 04-17-14, 01:46 PM
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We live an learn, just wish it didn't hurt so much sometimes

I doubt you'd be able to refinish just a portion of the floor and not have it show. It's hard to say if the hardwood was stained. If the finish is oil base, it will deepen the color naturally in the wood to give that look but if a waterbased poly was used the floor would be lighter in color unless a light stain was applied.

Pet stains can be hard to get rid of When they don't sand out you generally have to bleach those areas, if that doesn't work it time to replace some boards

I'd work on repairing the problem areas and then give the entire floor a light sanding and repoly the whole floor.

I know your uncle was trying to help but some folks just shouldn't own an airless. I done a lot of spraying [own 2 pumps] but I rarely ever sprayed anything in a finished house. Overspray will go everywhere! Usually it's quicker/cheaper to brush and roll than to cover up everything so you can spray.
 
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Old 04-17-14, 02:10 PM
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Agree, its just one of those things. The other issue im running into, because I though about just doing the whole floor as well... To the left of the living room is my dining room, and there is probably a 6 foot opening where the floor continues, and then it continues into a hallway. So it never really ends. Ive been debating if i should do the dining room, and just stop once the wallway starts
 
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Old 04-17-14, 02:19 PM
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It's difficult to stop anywhere in a middle of a board If the wood runs parallel to the opening you can carefully stop at the edge of the board. When just freshening up the floor finish you don't need to do any heavy duty sanding, just enough so the new poly will adhere to the old [don't forget to remove the sanding dust first] At least you get to tackle it before any furniture gets in the way.
 
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Old 04-17-14, 02:56 PM
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Here is an idea of what layout looks like. The hallway starts in the left corner of the dining room (just past that cord), I dont have any photos showing it.

Think im better off stopping somewhere in the middle of the entry of the dining room? or going down the hallway and stopping board to board?

also, what would you advise to use to rough up the floor?
 
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Old 04-17-14, 03:36 PM
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If you get the sheen close you should be able to stop at the opening between the 2 rooms.
120 or 150 grit on your palm sander should do ok for sanding the existing finish, the area with the pet stains might need heavier sanding.
 
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