How to deal with this laminate / door transition / carpet issue


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Old 07-31-14, 06:15 PM
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How to deal with this laminate / door transition / carpet issue

Hi Folks

Found you guys on the web. First post. I really should have looked for this site a long time ago. Long time DIY'r who is always looking for help.

Anyway, I am replacing an existing laminate floor. with new laminate (Harmonics Vineyard Cherry from Costco) The current section I am doing, the hallway, was previously done by a pro, as was the carpet in the adjoining bedrooms. I just finished the master bedroom, which you can see in the pics.

My issues, as best I can explain it:

I assume one wants to continue the planks from the master into the hallway. That is, I should align the boards as if they are continuous with the expansion T-molding in between. That way, visually, the seams will line up. Is this correct thinking?

Assuming the above is correct, I have a problem. As seen in the pic, this would leave me with a 1.25" or so strip in front of the molding next to the carpet. I assume that is a bad idea. It is .25" from the laminate edge to the door jamb outer stop. It is a total of 1 7/8 from the carpet edge to the edge of the laminate.

Do I disregard the continuation of the seams from the master and just make sure I get a full width piece in front of the doorways and try and get the transition molding fully under the door, as it's supposed to be.

Given where the carpet guy put the carpet, will I be able to get the molding fully under the door anyway?

How else would you solve this issue?

Other notes:

Entire floor is over a concrete slab.

The blue underlayment is an underlayment / vapor barrier which was under the previous flooring. Harmonics customer service has approved the thickness of the included underlayment and the blue one combined.

turning the boards perpendicular isn't really an option, as the plan is to continue the run into the hall / entry / great room (as the previous floor was). Leaving them in the current direction makes them correctly oriented once I get to the great room (long-ways vs. perpendicular to the long part of the room).

Thanks for your time. I'm glad I've found you folks!

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Last edited by kiva822; 07-31-14 at 06:33 PM.
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Old 08-06-14, 04:41 PM
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Keep it the way you have and either get a generic stainable transition from HD or somewhere else. They come in varying widths so it will cover the gap you have and can be stained to match. Or and I know it's says in the instructions not to do but I've done it several times and never had a problem. Rip a piece of the flooring to reduce the size of the gap. I believe in most manufacturers instructions it says to not install a piece below 2 inches in width but like I said I've never had issues.
 
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Old 08-07-14, 06:16 AM
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Rip down a piece of laminate to whatever size you need to reduce the gap to the carpet. Pre-cut all the pieces needed to fit and under cut the door jamb and casing and tuck the laminate underneath. Assemble all those pieces in the room and glue the 1" strip you cut at the carpet to the full pieces in the door threshold area and then slide the whole unit into place. Then continue with the balance of the installation.
 
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Old 08-07-14, 07:56 AM
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thanks for the replies, guys. I'm going to have to get a carpet pro out, I think, since the carpet on both bedrooms is cut too far into the transition to keep the molding under the door.

San_Man: why a generic molding vs. what Harmonics offers? solid wood vs. mdf? will there be something that matches the 'cherry' finish @ HD/Lowe's?
 
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Old 08-07-14, 11:53 AM
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I suggested the generic molding because you will have wider options than the usual 1 1/4 or so inch ones that the manufacturers make. You will have to stain it to match though. To get the transition in you'll have to cut the door stop a bit higher. From the pic of the one bedroom it looks like the transition will fall directly below the closed door.
 
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Old 08-07-14, 05:07 PM
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If the door stays closed most of the time, then the placement of the transition is important. If the door is open 95% of the time and closed, say, only at night, then the placement of the transition piece outside the "under the door" area is fine.
 
 

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