Solid hardwood on stair landing, installation questions

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  #1  
Old 03-08-15, 07:21 AM
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Solid hardwood on stair landing, installation questions

After re-treading all of our basement steps (and finishing them with stain), of course the next step for full WAF is to complete the stair landing in the same manner.

Total size of the landing is about 3.5' x 3.5' and 5" tall.

The subfloor of the landing is 3/4" OSB screwed and glued (PL Premium) to a 2x4 structure 16" OC.

The whole substructure is screwed to 2 PT "plates" to keep it off the concrete basement floor.

Ive been hemming and hawing about how to install it (nail/stapled or glue down, since its such a small area).

I think Im leaning towards nailing/stapling, but is there a case for just using a glue down in such a small area?

But if nailing it is, a question - I have 3/4 of a roll of GAF ShingleMate sitting in my shed. Is that an acceptable underlayment? I know that pure 15 or 30 lb roofing felt is usually recommended, but Id hate to have to buy a roll for such a small area (and then have 90% of that roll sitting next to 75% of my roll of ShingleMate )

Finally, Im letting the material acclimate and will be grabbing a moisture meter today. The "problem" is that its cold and fairly dry here (Connecticut)....short of waiting for warmer, more humid weather, is there anything I can do to account for the wood expanding once normal weather arrives? I read about washer rows, but those were suggested for large area installs....not my ~16 sq ft.

Thanks in advance.

-Chris
 
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  #2  
Old 03-08-15, 07:49 AM
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Its a little short for a step height, even if you add 3/4" hardwood. What is the height of the steps and the height of the landing to the first tread? All must be relatively close to the same distance.

Your shingle mate should be fine, provided it is not a weather guard asphalt impregnated sheet. My be a little thick to overlap, so keep that in mind. You usually use 15# felt paper and the brochure likened the shingle mate to 30# felt.

Will the landing have a railing system or will be open on the sides?

Care to share some pictures of your project? http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...rt-images.html
 
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Old 03-08-15, 08:43 AM
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The landing is walled on 2 sides, incoming stairs on the 3rd, and then the step down into the basement on the 4th....Ill snap a pic later.

I actually made it TALLER than it was to start with (go figure). Once you step off the landing you are on the basement floor. Since its not a landing to another set of stairs, I always thought the code for step height didnt apply.

The height from surface of the 3/4" hardwood (to be installed) to the surface of the first tread will be correct....~7-3/4" like the rest of the basement steps. The only "short" step is onto/off the landing itself to/from the basement floor.
 
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Old 03-08-15, 09:03 AM
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So in the absence of the landing, the first step would have been 5 3/4" + 7 3/4" = 13 1/2"? Sounds strange, but anyway, I'll turn my eye to the difference for you.

To your original question, nail/staple instead of glue.
 
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Old 03-08-15, 09:15 AM
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Sorry I wasnt clear

The landing existed before, but I needed to rebuild it after we had an interior drainage system installed since it needed to be cut back from the wall for access.

Was leaning towards nailing anyway so Ill run with that. Any suggestions on leaving a gap (purposely) between some/all boards to account for humidity rising during the summer?

And yet another question - the stair nosing. If I put felt/ShingleMate down first, do I leave the area where the nosing will go as bare OSB so I can glue it down? Do I just face nail the nosing?

I was going to install the nosing first (seems to be the recommended way), which means nailing the other boards would put pressure on the nosing, so I wasnt sure just face nailing would work. And the nosing has a groove (not a tongue) so I cant blind nail it either.

The plan was to put the nosing down first with a combo of glue and face nails, then a spline in the groove to allow the rest of the flooring to go "tongue out" so I can blind nail it.

-Chris
 
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Old 03-08-15, 09:38 AM
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Yes work from the nosing back. Make sure your glue is subfloor rated and not just a glue. Liquid nails has a bunch of different glues, not all are rated for flooring. If it was me, I would drill, countersink and plug your nosing into the framing. I use a forstner bit and pull my own plugs from the nosing scrap. Use deck screws with a star bit for the most torque. Riser would be a 1/4" material I assume that the nosing would overlap.

Rather than re-write everything, read this thread for some tips when it comes to nailing your flooring. Since you said nail/staple, I assume you have access to a floor nailer. However, you will get to put 3 rows down, before the nailer will not work anymore. I have a couple of tricks I use to get a finished floor without any face nails except for the final row under the moldings. http://www.doityourself.com/forum/so...hrow-away.html
 
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Old 03-08-15, 11:20 AM
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Thanks for the additional info!

I will rent a flooring nailer, no big deal. I have my own 15 ga finish nailer so I can do exactly as you mentioned and use it to nail down where the flooring nailer cant reach.

For glue I was planning on using PL400 or PL Premium. I used PL Premium for the stair treads and actually trowelled it out. Its only been a few weeks but there is not one ounce of movement, creaking, etc when you walk down those treads.

Thought about the plug idea as well, just wasnt sure how obvious it will be once the floor is finished (dark colored stain)
 
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Old 03-08-15, 11:34 AM
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I've installed hardwood in small rooms just using my 16 gauge nailer along with a block of wood and hammer. Not sure I'd go thru the trouble of renting a floor nailer for such a small area.

Nail holes can be made to all but disappear if you use care selecting [or inter mixing] the colored putty. There are 2 ways to use plugs; either try and match the grain so they will blend better or you can use a different species of wood and embrace the look of the plugs.
 
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Old 03-08-15, 12:36 PM
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I find it much easier to use stair tread pieces for landings than to try and put flooring in the area. I install the stair nosing in its proper place, then biscuit additional pieces with the bullnose trimmed off and joined to each other. Stain and poly. Difficult to tell in this picture, but the landing is 4' deep and turns to the right for a second staircase.

Name:  Crowley steps.jpg
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  #10  
Old 03-08-15, 12:53 PM
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Thats a great idea! Too bad I already bought the flooring I could always re-bundle it somehow but I assume HD would give me fits about trying to return it.

Treads are a little more expensive, but I dont have a biscuit jointer (it would be a great reason to buy one though!)

Hmmm.....
 
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