Difference between 1 1/8" and 3/4" solid wood treads (with nose)
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Difference between 1 1/8" and 3/4" solid wood treads (with nose)
Why are there the 3/4" thick treads with a thicker nose? vs. the regular 1 1/8".
e.g. White Oak Natural (Prefinished Clear) Retro Stair Tread Closed 36 in
Often offered as retro, carpet upgrade option. It doesn't look like those are cheaper. So, why?
e.g. White Oak Natural (Prefinished Clear) Retro Stair Tread Closed 36 in
Often offered as retro, carpet upgrade option. It doesn't look like those are cheaper. So, why?
#2
It may depend on what was there before... if you are putting 1 1/8" treads on in place of 3/4" treads, using 1 1/8" treads would make the bottom step 3/8" taller than it was before, and it would make the top step 3/8" smaller than it was before.
The code states that NO step on an entire staircase can vary more than 3/8" in total rise from any other step, so that includes the very first step and the very last step which are usually the ones that will vary if you do a retrofit or replacement of the existing treads.
The code states that NO step on an entire staircase can vary more than 3/8" in total rise from any other step, so that includes the very first step and the very last step which are usually the ones that will vary if you do a retrofit or replacement of the existing treads.
#3
Member
Thread Starter
Thanks for the explanation.
What is typically done in practice when redoing a carpeted staircase?
What is typically done in practice when redoing a carpeted staircase?
#4
That's pretty hard to answer when I can't see your staircase...
A lot depends on how the stairs were built so it's pretty hard to say. What is the thickness of your current treads after carpet is removed?

#5
Member
Thread Starter
I have not yet removed the carpet. But I have access to the back of the stair. It looks like 3/4"
#6
that would explain why that tread was suggested then. Using those treads would keep all the rises the same as they are now, while using 1 1/8" thick treads would make the bottom rise 3/4" greater than the top rise, which is not to code. The notch in the nose also will probably cover the top of your riser better.
#7
You could always compromise and use 1" bullnose treads at almost 1/3 the cost of what you presented, depending on what you have for a base on the existing treads.
Stairtek 1 in. x 11.5 in. x 36 in. Unfinished White Oak Tread-BTWO1136 - The Home Depot
Stairtek 1 in. x 11.5 in. x 36 in. Unfinished White Oak Tread-BTWO1136 - The Home Depot
#8
It wouldn't hurt to check the current rise of the first and last step as well to verify the stairs are built correctly. I can't count how many stair cases I see with this problem right from the time they were built new. Now is an easy time to fix it by putting the right size tread back in place.
#9
Member
Thread Starter
Did some measuring without removing the carpet. The top rise (measured on top of the 1" bullnose from the top floor to the first stair is about 7.5". Carpeted stair to stair about 7.25". Bottom rise from tile floor to first carpeted stair is 8.5".
I don't want the existing 3/4" construction treads under the carpet removed.
I don't want the existing 3/4" construction treads under the carpet removed.
#10
I don't want the existing 3/4" construction treads under the carpet removed.
#11
Your bottom rise is already well higher than is allowed by code (7 7/8") adding anther 3/4" or 1 1/8" on top of that is only going to make it worse. It may not sound like much, but small differences like that are major tripping hazzards. Probably not to you, because you are used to them, but to others it is for sure.
The way to fix it is to remove the carpet, and remove the old construction treads. This will will let you fix (or at least make better) the rise issue.
The way to fix it is to remove the carpet, and remove the old construction treads. This will will let you fix (or at least make better) the rise issue.