Just wondering if I could get a couple of quick tips? The laminate I’m fitting is drop and lock. I’ll be getting a jigsaw and decent blades and possibly one of those laminate tool starter kits with the spacers and tapper and stuff. I was just wondering from the picture where in the room would be the best place to start.

I was going to run them straight down from the door and not across as I reckon it would be a nightmare to do it across. I was going to start at the front door and run down. If anyone has any recommendations would be glad to hear them. Are there any other tools which might prove useful?

Also when fitting them against door trims at the bottom do I run it straight up to the trim or leave the gap around the entire room? Just a lot of videos online show people cutting into the trim and sliding them under. I can’t do that as my place is rented and if I mess it up ill have to pay to fix it.

it would most likely be best to start at the top left of the front door and finish in the bottom right corner. Still any recommendations If im wrong. Would appreciate any tips actually though I only needed to ask a couple of things but apparently that’s not the case.

Also when getting up to a door separator say laminate to vinyl do i leave a gap between bot materials or go right up to the material in the other room?

TLDR

1. Based on the pictures below. Where would be the best place to start and finish?
2. When getting down to the bottom of the room there is a door in the same way as the front door (3rd photo). Do I keep the way the rows go the same or put one piece horizontally against that door?
3. How far up to the door bar do you go?
4. Any other tips that would help. I have never done this before, but cant to afford to pay someone or I would.
5. Can anyone link any decent videos?

 

Undercutting the trim is the proper Method. Since you can't do that you will have to leave a gap. The flooring must be a MINIMUM 1/4" away from anything it could touch. This includes trim work or other floors. This stuff moves alot with humidity changes. Since your room is so small it will be less noticeable, but still make sure you are not tight on anything.

If it were me I would run the flooring across the hallway instead of down it.

Only other tip I can offer is to be sure each peace is properly locked in before moving to the next.

 

Whole lot of work and money for just a rental.
Have you talked to the owner about your plans?
They may want it done right and help out or just say no way.
There must also be transition strips in the middle of any door opening.

 

It is a more natural look to run flooring in a hall the lenghtwise way, but you have so many cuts that is probably would not make a difference. Fortunately, you have square corners and transitions on your door trim. Leave the requisite gap and plan on putting shoe molding to cover all the gaps including wrapping around the corners at the doorways. Leave a gap between the laminate and any other surface and bridge the gap with a transition piece be it a reducer or t molding.

 

Do I have to cut off the tongue that faces the wall? If the opposite way is the correct way wouldn't that just be creating more work than is necessary? I just assumed more cutting. So thought going with the longest point of the room would be the easiest way.

Also do any tongues have to be cut off that face any walls? With regards to door gaps this is pretty much the only thing I dont really get. Does it have to be 1/4 inch from any material in other rooms. 1/4 inch from the edge of the door bar or 1/4 inch from the middle of it. Meh dunno. Also the expansion gap is this around all edges such as door face, trim, architraves etc, So 1/4 gap around everywhere an edge ends?

I was going to do it properly by remove skirting but its not worth is as 1 its rented and 2 i imagine half the walls would come off with the trim. So not worth the risk.

what is wrapping?
wheres the best place to start and finish?

@joecaption

Its housing association and they couldn't care less as long I don't damage anything. Also nothing stopping me taking the flooring with me if i move.

@keith weagle
wouldnt going across be more work and cutting? your the second person to suggest this so must be a reason why. I just assumed the other way would be easier.

 

Either way is acceptable. It is really about preference in the look and installation.

I always try to go across the hallway because it is easier to slide the flooring under the door trim and jamb that way. It is near impossible to get the last row under the cut trim running it the length of the hallway (when there are door openings on both sides). Since you arent cutting them, you won't have that issue so it won't matter in your case. It is also easier to lock your panels in place and there is less of a chance your panel locks will fail, as this usually happens on the butt ends rather than the long ends.

 

Aye that makes sense. I dunno i might pay someone to do the hallway and do the lounge myself and save a bit of money that way but cant really afford it so hmm.

 

It really is an easy and straight forward product to install. Just read and follow the instructions and you will be fine. Like I said above, the most important thing is not the have the flooring cut too tight to anything it might bind on when it expands, and to make sure your pieces are fully locked.

 

How far from the door bar should it be? Does it go right up to it or do you do it 1/4 inch from the centre of it.

 

It should be 1/4" from ANYTHING it could touch. Cover the gap with transition bars at the doorways, and shoe moulding around the baseboard.

 

Slight correction. The flooring at the door needs to be cut the width of your transition piece flat, plus 1/4". Don't jam it up to where the transition piece will not allow movement.