5" T&G no subfloor

House was built in the 1964. We added on a dining room to the house and were planning on installing Pergo throughout the house except for the bedrooms. When I pulled up the carpet there was particle board underneath, 3/8" or 7/16". I started to rip up the particle board to find 5" T&G flooring. Interested if there was a subfloor, I found a knot hole that had been knocked out and confirmed there was no subfloor (I can see through to the dirt).

We will have to do something about the new dining room, since it does not have original T&G in it, but is it ok to refinish the T&G as is without the subfloor or should I install a new subfloor over the T&G and install flooring over that.

Not looking to get into a discussion on whether pergo is a good option or not, but I would like to, if possible use the original T&G.

Here is the T&G as I rip up the particle board next to the new addition.

 

Welcome to the forums!

On the right you have OSB. On the left, you certainly have Particle Board. (which needs to be removed.)

Scale back, tell exactly what your plan of attack is? Research is good, we will zero in on what is right for your situation .

 

My original plan of attack was to remove the particle board and replace it with OSB in the area I removed in the pic because it had swelled and was out of tolerance for the pergo installation. There is an area in the living room that smells like dog and I was planning on replacing that area of subfloor as well.

The more I read about particle board, the more I realized I should probably remove all of it. That made the project quite a bit more labor intensive and if I plan on replacing with OSB, more expensive.

Right now my plan is to research and find out what is going to be a good, correct, and esthetically pleasing solution. The house is approximately 1200 sq ft. Area to have flooring replaced total about 700 sq ft.

Options I'm considering:

1. Removing all particle board and refinishing T&G. Will use new flooring that compliments the finish of the T&G in the new dining room over the OSB

or

2. Removing all particle board and replacing with OSB. Then laying new flooring as originally intended.

or

3. Remove enough particle board to level out the floor and then lay flooring over the top.

or

4. Anything else presented by someone who knows what they are doing.

 

Not sure that the tongue and groove is a finished floor. It is pine from the looks of it and tongue and groove to make it stronger so it can be used as a subfloor. Particle board is the weakest link in your whole project. We here have agreed that the inventor and/or anyone who ever installed it, should be taken behind the shed and taught a lesson. It is just too unstable and unforgiving if subject to water/moisture of any kind. It swells and crumbles. Now (just a brief mention) that laminate in a kitchen is also risky. Some get lucky, others aren't so fortunate. Laminate is MDF (another manufactured wood product) with a picture of wood on it. It also is subject to swelling in the presence of moisture. If budget permits, take a good hard look at engineered flooring. Looks like plywood from the cross section with a layer of real wood on top. It is dimensionally more stable, is actual wood and will work better in your case. It also comes in a click Lock form for ease of installation.

Back to your issue, what is the height difference between the two rooms?

 

Height difference is 3/4". If I don't put down a new subfloor I will need to work out some type of transition there. I don't think the pine t&g was ever a finished floor in this house. There are paint splatters and plaster on it from what looks like the finish workers prior to flooring being installed on top of the pine.

Thanks for the info on the laminate in the kitchen.

I completely agree on the particle board. It is disgusting to see what is retained in the particle board from "accidents" over the years. Places where there were stains it just falls apart like wet paper towel. Regardless of what the end decision is, ripping that garbage up was the right thing to do.

 

If you are sure that the linoleum or whatever sheet goods that's over the top of the particle board does not contain asbestos, you can make relief cuts to make removal easier. Find where a line of nails are and cut beside them with a circular saw set to the depth of the particle board. Make strips all the way down the floor. Use a pry bar to lift the free end and bend it over to loosen the nails. Once it starts to move, you can pry that piece out. Particle board used to be 5/8" thick, cross check you height differential before purchasing new subflooring/underlayment.

Regarding the engineered flooring, look for a true plywood cross section. Some flooring uses HDF as a core filler which is just a harder version of MDF and puts you in the same boat as far a water issues.

 

The flooring that is currently in the house was put in around 2010, so I think we are good on the asbestos. The particle board was installed with staples and there is no rhyme or reason to them, save for the fact that around the seams there are what appears to be a million staples.

I think I may have diluted my question in the original post. Thank you for the tips so far czizzi.

Is refinishing the pine t&g flooring an option, in my situation, where the t&g is also considered the subfloor?

We are removing all of the particle board regardless. If refinishing is not an option, I will be laying a new subfloor layer over the t&g and laying some type of flooring whether it be engineered or pergo.

 

Pine is a soft wood. The fact that it is T&G is a plus, however, only walking on it will tell you if it is enough. You may experience some dips between floor joists and some bounce in those areas as well. Judging from the small area in the picture you provided, the fit and finish leaves something to be desired. You also will most likely do some minor scratching and gouging as you attempt to get the particleboard out. Those defects will most likely look like a neon sign once stain is applied.

 

There are those that finish pine floors. Usually they look best without stain [just poly] It will never wear as good as hardwood and since it was put down as a subfloor - it may not look as good as you want. Once it is all exposed you'd be in a better position to make that call. IMO a T&G pine sub floor is as good as it gets but it never was intended to be a finish floor.

 

Additional pic form last night's demolition.

Attachment 49683