Painting white trim after installing onsite finsihed floor - how to tape?
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Painting white trim after installing onsite finsihed floor - how to tape?
I had bad luck painting the white trim after having a wood floor installed that got finished onsite. The floor was a bit rough towards the edges. I used tape on the wood floor. However, I had some bleeding.
I have now a staircase installed. Before I get started with painting the raisers I wanted to seek out some best practices.
Is there tape that is better suited for such jobs? E.g. I found this frog tape that claims to create better paint edges.
I have now a staircase installed. Before I get started with painting the raisers I wanted to seek out some best practices.
Is there tape that is better suited for such jobs? E.g. I found this frog tape that claims to create better paint edges.
#3
Forum Topic Moderator
IMO you are better off without tape! If the paint doesn't have a complete seal it will allow paint to seep under it
Generally if you use tape it's best to remove the tape before the paint dries so you can address any seepage. Taking your time with a quality brush is best!
Is there a reason the painting wasn't done prior to installing the new treads? It's easier/quicker to touch it up after install than start from scratch.

Is there a reason the painting wasn't done prior to installing the new treads? It's easier/quicker to touch it up after install than start from scratch.
#6
The myth is that putting tape up means that you can simply go to town and paint willie nillie without worry as the tape will make a nice straight line for you. In reality, the paint is merely a safety measure to prevent a shaky hand from making an opps on the adjacent surface. It was never meant to be a cure all for poor painting skills, yet that is how they have sold it to us. And we part with upwards of $8 per roll of tape that is either blue or green. Personally, I have several rolls of general purpose yellow masking tape that I use if needed. Blue or green tape is only needed if you are trying to protect an already painted surface. You are protecting stairs, save some money and use regular masking tape at $3 per roll.
#7
Forum Topic Moderator
I'm partial to the blue tape because it's generally easier to remove. But like Z said, you can't just slop the paint on expecting the tape to do all the work. You might try using tape but then take care cutting in with the brush acting like the tape isn't there. That will help you hone your brushing skills and minimize the chance of seepage.
#8
Member
Thread Starter
I did one test with one stringer with the green tape and was careful when applying paint to the edges. That worked reasonably well.
However, I came to the conclusion that I want to put a small line of caulk on top of the transition between riser/tread and the stringer.
Usually, when using caulk I remove the tape immediately. In this case I would like to paint the caulk. Do I still need to remove the tape after caulking? Possibly taping twice?
However, I came to the conclusion that I want to put a small line of caulk on top of the transition between riser/tread and the stringer.
Usually, when using caulk I remove the tape immediately. In this case I would like to paint the caulk. Do I still need to remove the tape after caulking? Possibly taping twice?
#9
Forum Topic Moderator
Personally I've never seen the need to use tape when caulking .... but I do have a lifetime of experience using a caulk gun. Any bond created with the tape needs to either be removed before it [paint of caulk] dries or if dry, that bond needs to be cut with a utility knife prior to removing the tape.