Stain on wooden floor cause using Citri-strip

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Old 08-06-15, 12:42 PM
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Stain on wooden floor cause using Citri-strip

I was doing some work on my place. I decided to use the Citri-Strip ECG73807 Paint and Varnish Remover, 17-Ounce, Aerosol. I waited 24 hours after putting it but now all I have are small stain circle where I sprayed the aerosol. How do I remove the stain cause by the aerosol?
 
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Old 08-06-15, 01:16 PM
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Can you post some pictures?
http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...rt-images.html

Additionally, do you know what finish is on the floor and whether there's any left on these spots?
 
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Old 08-06-15, 03:20 PM
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Here are two pictures.

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I have spots on other location but lighting is not that great. What can I do to make the wooden floor so it doesn't show the spots.
 
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Old 08-06-15, 03:30 PM
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I would expect that if the white is only in the clear poly finish, that you will need to sand the finish down (maybe using 180 then 220 grit) and brush on new finish. If the white goes deeper and you end up sanding clear to the wood, you will need to apply stain to the wood and let it dry before you put any new poly on.

Why in the world would you spray that on your floor?
 
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Old 08-06-15, 04:43 PM
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I was trying to remove old paint stain
 
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Old 08-06-15, 06:03 PM
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Would I need to sand the whole floor or just the area with the spots? do you think this item from home depot will be good to finish. Zinsser 1-qt. Amber Shellac Traditional Finish and Sealer-00704H - The Home Depot also besides the sand paper, what other material will I need?
 
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Old 08-06-15, 08:16 PM
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No, do NOT use amber shellac. Its orange.

Get clear polyurethane, most likely the oil based variety, sheen might be semi-gloss, and a china bristle brush. Yes, I would say you should just try to lightly sand the marks and then when you brush the poly on, you will need to brush the whole area. Very thin coats are best, so you will spread it out as thin as possible with your brush. You might be able to feather it out, or you might need to recoat the whole floor. Can't really say.

I would sand one spot and see where it gets you... how far you have to sand. Then brush on a little poly and see if it looks good. Test ONE SPOT. Don't do the whole floor until you have a plan and know how its going to work. This is a giant screw up, as I'm sure you know by now, so don't make it worse. Take it one step at a time, and report back once you've sanded and tried a spot with the poly.

Picking the right sheen is important. Poly comes in satin, semi-gloss and high gloss. Determining what your existing floor is will go a long ways in helping to match your repair with the rest of the floor if you hope to not have to brush the whole floor. Judging by the semi-shiny spot in the one picture I would guess its semi-gloss. Satin is less shiny, High gloss is obviously the most shiny.
 
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Old 08-07-15, 03:53 AM
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Before sanding, I'd try scrubbing those areas with paint thinner or maybe a liquid deglosser and see what that does.

As X said, you can't really touch up poly on floors. It's best to lightly sand and recoat the entire room although you might get by with cutting in and just doing individual boards [or groups of boards]

Do you know what type of poly is on the floor? both the sheen and whether it's oil base or water based.
 
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