100 year old Hardwood Repair- Deepening 2.5" Oak Tongue and Groove

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  #1  
Old 12-02-15, 07:54 PM
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100 year old Hardwood Repair- Deepening 2.5" Oak Tongue and Groove

Hi all- I have a 1913 rowhouse, recently purchased. Pulled up the carpet to find hardwood floors underneath. They are not in the best shape, but somewhat salvageable IMO. They are 2.5" oak or pine X 3/4" thick. I began to pull up the worst boards under the fridge and oven. I placed 2X4s in between the joists under these areas and put down plywood. I began to put down standard replacement/restored hardwoods that matched only to realize I was putting down 2 1/4" boards, only to realize the size didn't match.
I was lucky enough to find some 2.5" boards X 3/4 and/or 7/8", oak. I bought about 300 sq. ft. The total sq ft of the house with originals is ~1000 sq ft. This is more than enough to make the repairs.

One problem, the replacement/restored floorboards only have about 1/8" of tongue and 1/8" groove. They came from another house and were bought at a restoration shop. The existing boards in my home have 1/4" tongue and grooves. So the new/replacement boards do not fit.
Essentially, I have learned that I need to deepen the tongue and the groove on the new replacement boards to 1/4" to make them fit. What is the best approach to doing this? Can I do this on a table saw? Do I need a router table?
Hand router? I currently own a circular saw, a jigsaw, a skill saw, and a dremel vibrating multi-tool.

My existing boards are in lengths up to 16 feet long. The replacement boards are up to 10 feet in length. I can feather these in and make this work re: length doesn't have to be 16 ft. The hard part is making them fit width wise into the old tongue and groove.

Buying new floors is out of the question. I don't have the budget for that and I need a floor. I could buy a table saw and make the cuts myself. I have the time and enough money to do that. Any recommendations on how to address this? I appreciate any constructive criticism here, but again, I am limited by my budget and would like to restore the old floors. I do not have much experience in woodworking but will learn and am here asking for that purpose. Thank you!

My plan, upon replacement, is to sand and stain everything.
 
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Old 12-03-15, 02:33 AM
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Well, it is either cut a deeper groove in the replacement stock, or trim off some of the tongue on the existing floor. The latter can be done with your existing tools. But, you most likely will run into instances where you need to shave a bit off the replacement stock to make it fit a tight area in the weave. So, it begs a table saw purchase. Only you can make that call having physically seen your scenario.
 
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Old 12-03-15, 05:56 AM
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Table saw can do both, Take time with scrap boards to learn saw and how to cut board to match.
 
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Old 12-03-15, 06:06 AM
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Correct me if I'm wrong, but if you make the tongue 1/8" longer, won't that turn your 2 1/2" planks into 2 3/8" planks? That would make them too narrow.

The best tool to use would be a router table and tongue and groove bit. It's possible with a table saw, but I wouldn't say it's the right tool for the job if you have more than just a few boards to do.
 
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Old 12-03-15, 09:57 AM
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Thank you both. I never thought to shave off the existing floorboard tongue. That would be a lot easier...
 
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Old 12-03-15, 10:01 AM
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No, all of the boards are 2 3/4 inches wide, when you factor in the tongue. The face of the boards (I.E. Where you walk on) is 2.5". There is already a tongue on the board of 1/8" depth. I need to double this depth to fit into the 1/4" grooves of the existing board. The width will remain 2 3/4" from end of tongue to beginning of groove.
 
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Old 12-03-15, 10:36 AM
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I would definitely run them through a router table with the right tongue and groove set. That way you will be sure each piece is milled exactly the same way.
 
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Old 12-04-15, 10:02 AM
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For table saws, I will need to do this with a dado blade, correct? A standard blade will not work?

Thank you for all the feedback!
 
  #9  
Old 12-04-15, 11:37 AM
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It sounds like you only need to modify the transition strip between the old wood and where you are installing the new. That is, the strips of wood that touch the existing floor are the only ones you need to modify. Once you get past that first row, the new boards will all fit together without modification. If you are patching a hole, then you will get back to the opposite side from where you started and need to do another transition but this one may not need the same solution. For the last row of boards, you may end up handling it as you would for patching a hole and cut off the tongue or part of the groove and then face nail it down.

- Peter
 
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