"Sleeper" OSB subfloor with pine T&G over concrete?

Reply

  #1  
Old 02-24-16, 08:02 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Sarasota, FL
Posts: 3
"Sleeper" OSB subfloor with pine T&G over concrete?

Separated from http://www.doityourself.com/forum/so...-subfloor.html

If you don't mind, what was the results of this? I am having to do a similar type of operation.

I have existing flooring that was installed like this and it sits at 1.5" above my concrete slab. I am extending the floor through my kitchen so I need to raise the flooring to the level. The Pine T&G flooring I ordered has a thickness of 3/4" so I need an extra 3/4". How did you end up doing your floors?
 

Last edited by stickshift; 02-24-16 at 08:22 AM.
Sponsored Links
  #2  
Old 02-24-16, 08:07 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Sarasota, FL
Posts: 3
"Sleeper" OSB subfloor with pine T&G over concrete?

So I am attempting to extend the flooring in my livingroom throughout the kitchen. The issue I am faced with is that the existing flooring sits at 1.5" above the slab so I need to install the new flooring at the same level.

My plan:

Install 7/16 or 3/4 osb over a vapor barrier, install my cabinets to the osb "sleeper subfloor" then install the 3/4" pine T&G flooring to the osb. I've read that using two layers of OSB in perpendicular layouts is perferred, but I don't know if I can pull that off since nobody sells osb smaller than 7/16" in my area.

Anyways, what are the suggestions for this? Besides ripping up my livingroom floor and starting fresh...
 
  #3  
Old 02-24-16, 08:18 AM
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: WI/MN
Posts: 18,562
  #4  
Old 02-24-16, 01:50 PM
czizzi's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 7,124
Do you have a cross section of what you currently have? To me, it is a recipe for an unstable floor. It would make more sense to remove the sleeper system and install an engineered floating floor over your slab. Pictures would help.

http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...your-post.html
 
  #5  
Old 02-24-16, 04:18 PM
XSleeper's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: USA
Posts: 20,221
You also want your cabinets installed at finished floor height, not subfloor height, so you would raise their footprint to the finished floor height with an additional layer of 3/4" ply.
 
  #6  
Old 02-25-16, 05:43 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Sarasota, FL
Posts: 3
I'll try to post a cross section later, need to remove some things to get that view.

Just curious why you think it is necessary to have the cabinets at finish floor height?

I only ask because if I was to be putting down wood flooring the standard method I'd likely set the cabinets on the concrete/vapor barrier and then install my flooring around the cabinets.

The cabinets I removed are sitting on the concrete (no vapor barrier) and then they were tiled around them.

Thanks for the help guys, I will take all of this advice as I work my way towards this goal. Today I am pulling out my soffit ceiling so I have a while before floors.
 
  #7  
Old 02-25-16, 05:59 AM
XSleeper's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: USA
Posts: 20,221
The main reason is so that a dishwasher will fit under the countertop. You will also have the full 4" of toe kick, not 3 1/4.
 
Reply

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Display Modes
'