Unfinished hardwood installation gaps


  #1  
Old 03-05-16, 11:20 AM
E
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: chicago
Posts: 7
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Unfinished hardwood installation gaps

Hi fellow DIYers,

Im doing hardwood floors for the first time. After a ton of research I bought a bunch of 3 1/4" unfinished white oak from lumber liquidators(2$sqft). I flattened, screwed the OSB down and put a vapor barrier. And I have a few questions...

I did a small room as a trial and ended up with a bunch of gaps between the wood planks, they are about 1/16" MAX. Im planning on filling the floor during the finishing process with sawdust/glue. In addition I was really looking to use the Monocoat system.

1. Will the gaps be visible after filling them with sawdust?
2. Is there a concern with the color of the fill not being the same? Im using white monocoat stain. I was thinking that the stain might not take as well on the filled parts. What do you guys think?

Thanks for your help!
Tom
 
  #2  
Old 03-05-16, 12:17 PM
J
Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 4,463
Received 128 Upvotes on 113 Posts
Never heard of Monocoat, had to look it up.
Interior Projects
There not be any gaps to fill, and yes any filler used is going to show.
How are you taping the boards together so there tight?
 
  #3  
Old 03-05-16, 12:41 PM
chandler's Avatar
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 36,607
Upvotes: 0
Received 9 Upvotes on 8 Posts
Was your wood acclimated to the room at least for 72 hours before installation? Did you use staples or cleats for the installation along with the appropriate flooring hammer?
 
  #4  
Old 03-05-16, 12:59 PM
E
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: chicago
Posts: 7
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
The wood was sat inside for 6 weeks, the gaps are from installation but I do have some old flooring downstairs that has some gaps too. I used a flooring hammer with Bostitch 2" staples. The boards were just a touch warped, some of them would straighten out and some didnt.

So when you guys installed your floor there was no gaps?
 
  #5  
Old 03-05-16, 01:33 PM
M
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: USA - N.E.Tn
Posts: 45,619
Received 824 Upvotes on 722 Posts
Boards that aren't straight are usually tossed. Sometimes it's beneficial to take a block of wood and a hammer to set them tight. They sell an oak paste that can be used for minor cracks and IMO would be a lot easier than mixing sawdust and glue.
 
  #6  
Old 03-05-16, 02:38 PM
chandler's Avatar
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 36,607
Upvotes: 0
Received 9 Upvotes on 8 Posts
So when you guys installed your floor there was no gaps?
I can't say "Never", but as a general rule all flooring is pulled tight and stapled/cleated and never have gaps. Mixing sawdust and glue will give you a filler that won't accept stain, either.
 
  #7  
Old 03-06-16, 04:57 AM
czizzi's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 6,541
Received 15 Upvotes on 13 Posts
When I have had issues with gaps it was from the milling process and not from minor warps that can be pulled tight with a hammer. You find the gaps on two boards at the ends where one is just a hair thinner than the one adjacent to it. It usually is apparent when you set your first cleat and if not, immediately after you try to set the next row. Personally, I stop and remove the unmatched board and either find a similar width board or pull the oddball out of line. I have actually measured every board on a job and made piles of short widths and wide widths so I could adjust on the fly to a discrepancy.
 
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: