3rd coat of poly, not how it's supposed to look and freaking out!!!!!


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Old 10-03-16, 02:59 AM
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3rd coat of poly, not how it's supposed to look and freaking out!!!!!

Hello all, this weekend I decided to refinish my hardwood floors and I sanded down three different grits and cleaned up after. I went wth a satin finish on Minwax fast drying polyurethane. First coat went down and was sticky after 8 hours, waited two more and it was fine to apply second. Applied second coat and dried in 7-8 hours. Applied third coat yesterday around dinner and woke up this morning to a dry floor. HERE'S THE PROBLEM!! There's about 90% of the floor that is like a satin or matte then there's about 20 sq ft that is shiny and glossy. I used the same product and same process to apply and didn't over apply either. What could be causing this? Should I apply a fourth coat? HELP!!!
 
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Old 10-03-16, 03:24 AM
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Welcome to the forums! ......... Did you stir the poly well before you started?
 
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Old 10-03-16, 03:47 AM
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Yes I did, and thanks for the welcome. I stirred on all three coatings and was very careful adding from a new can. I made sure they were all same batch too (all were packaged together).
 
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Old 10-03-16, 03:52 AM
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It's possible that it hasn't had enough time to thoroughly dry. Give it another day or so to dry and see how it looks. If it's still has shiny spots in a few days, sand lightly, remove dust and apply another coat. I'd thin that coat slightly [5-10%]
 
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Old 10-03-16, 04:20 AM
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I do not want to sand again...and I didn't deviate the thickness of how I applied it. You're saying it could turn matte-ish over next day or so??
 
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Old 10-03-16, 04:24 AM
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It's possible it will loose the sheen as it cures.
If you apply another coat of poly you need to sand first! Doesn't have to be a heavy duty sanding, just enough to 'scratch' the top coat to promote good adhesion. You should always sand between coats of poly!
 
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Old 10-03-16, 05:57 AM
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This poly was for specifically no sand, lengthy convo w paint guy at Home Depot....
 
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Old 10-03-16, 06:01 AM
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Did you use an oil base flooring poly? My understanding is that the difference between sheens i.e. gloss, semi gloss, satin is due to the flattening agents. Stirring the poly is what mixes in the flattening agents. Gloss doesn't require stirring but the others do. If you didn't continually stir during the application process some separation may have occurred. There's better stuff on the market than MinWax, FWIW. As others have said lightly sand the current coat....just enough to scratch the surface and then apply another well stirred coat.
 
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Old 10-03-16, 06:05 AM
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First mistake, listening to box store advice, 2nd mistake, not reading the instructions on the can. I agree you just need to wait. It can take up to 7 days to fully cure (no cleaning or rugs until then).
 
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Old 10-03-16, 06:20 AM
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reading the instructions on the can
I don't have a Minwax can in front of me but I know it says to sand the dried poly before applying the next coat. Also it's always good practice to sand between coats both to promote good adhesion and to remove minor defects in the applied finish.
 
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Old 10-03-16, 01:42 PM
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You have to sand between coats of poly. Finishes like lacquer dry and the next coat partially re-wets the previous coat so they flow together into one. Poly, however, cures and therefore each coat is unaffected by the next one poured on top of it. By lightly sanding first, you create nooks and crannies into which the new coat can run so that you actually create a mechanical bond between the coats. Fail to do this and your coats of poly can peel.
 
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Old 10-03-16, 03:10 PM
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The can specifically said no need to sand between coats.
 
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Old 10-03-16, 04:49 PM
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Then I'm not sure it's polyurethane.
 
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Old 10-03-16, 07:18 PM
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The can specifically said no need to sand between coats.
20161003_210322_zpso7wd6ed7.jpg Photo by XSleeper | Photobucket

The can says no sanding as long as you apply the next coat within a specific window of time... between 4 and 12 hours after the last coat. If the finish dries more than 12 hrs, sand lightly with 220.

Since it has obviously been longer than 12 hours since your last coat, if you plan to apply another coat, you need to lightly sand before applying it. That is what we are trying to tell you. If you waited more than 12 hours between any of the other coats, you should have sanded between them too.

And just like marksr mentioned, sanding or "screening" between coats is standard procedure to remove any impurities that got into the previous coat. (Which is why those same instructions recommend you allow 3-4 hours dry time before sanding.)
 
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Old 10-04-16, 03:28 AM
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Ok thank you. The first three coats I waited
8 hours between coats not needing to sand, since last post, 8it is still glossy and will sand the area. Would I be sanding just the affected area or the whole floor prior to another coat??? Thanks again for all the help.Name:  IMG_6426.jpg
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As you can see below the line is the glossy part and the rest is a satin look. All surfaces are smooth and non-tacky. Thanks again.
 
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Old 10-04-16, 04:16 AM
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I'd lightly sand and recoat the entire floor as it's difficult to just redo a portion and get it to blend.
 
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Old 10-04-16, 07:51 AM
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Just use a palm sander w 220 grit for the whole floor? Should I wipe down the floor again prior to applying? And how many coats after the sand?
 
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Old 10-04-16, 07:54 AM
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Palm sander with 220 should be fine. You aren't trying to sand thru the poly, just scuff it up a little.
1 coat of poly is sufficient. Be sure it's stirred well and strain if needed.
 
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Old 10-04-16, 09:31 AM
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Yes, wipe the floor down - you need to remove all of the dust created by sanding.
 
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Old 10-04-16, 11:34 AM
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Thanks will provide update after complete tonight and dried by the morning I hope. It will get down to about 50-55 degrees overnight. Should I close windows or run a fan?
 
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Old 10-04-16, 11:40 AM
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I would close the windows. I don't like fans, they can blow debris onto the surface.
 
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Old 10-04-16, 04:27 PM
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How hard or soft should I sand? Just sanded whole floor 220 grit and where the shiny part was some spots are still shiny....is that okay?? Thanks in advance
 
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Old 10-04-16, 04:47 PM
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It just needs a light sanding. You aren't deglossing it. Check your sander pad... if you have any spots of poly glued to the sandpaper, you should put on a new piece of sandpaper and go back over the last areas you did. Those spots cause the sandpaper to not be in contact with the surface. It could be that the paper was fine for a while but got a little gummed up and wasn't doing much sanding.
 
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Old 10-05-16, 03:17 AM
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The paper should be changed out multiple times with a floor that size.
 
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Old 10-06-16, 04:52 AM
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Thank you everyone 4th coat went on great last night and looks great this morning. I have about 3-4 random slivers that look like I either missed or overlapped, can I go back over those areas? How could I remedy that?
 
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Old 10-06-16, 05:01 AM
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It's difficult to touch up the poly on a floor. If you can't live with it, repoly individual boards.
 
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Old 10-06-16, 08:06 AM
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Xsleeper,
I always listen to box store advice....the info makes for good storytelling stuff.
I've heard some real gems over the years.
 
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Old 10-06-16, 09:30 AM
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LOL... good point.

 
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Old 10-06-16, 09:55 AM
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We should have a contest to see who has the best Big Box advice story.
We could call it 'Big Box Bloopers'. It could have its own Forum section.
 
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Old 10-07-16, 08:42 AM
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Floors look great, thanks for the assistance. This evening it'll be 48
Hours since last coated. Safe to move furniture back on the floors? Thanks
 
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Old 10-07-16, 09:46 AM
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Instructions usually say to wait 72 hours before moving furniture back. The longer you wait the better.....oil based polyurethane continues to cure for many days.
 
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Old 10-07-16, 09:59 AM
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Generally light stocking foot traffic after 24 hrs. The longer the poly has to cure the harder and more wear resistant it will become. It's one thing to carefully set furniture in place after 48 hrs but you sure wouldn't want to scoot it any. Best to wait another day.
 
 

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