Laying wood "around" a center obstruction?
#1
10-13-16, 07:52 AM
Laying wood "around" a center obstruction?
I hope this attachment works. If you can't see the image, you can also see it here. 
This is a schematic diagram of my project. I am planning on installing 6" width engineered hardwood flooring. The flooring will be running horizontally, relative to the perspective of this diagram. Everything in blue (both light and dark blue) will be covered with this floor.
My concern is this: Suppose I start in the sitting room/entryway/dining room. I run a strip and work from there. I am going to end up working my way around the center area (with the stairs/closet) from both sides, but then eventually, those sides need to meet up at the bottom.
I am concerned that either variations in the width of the boards or minor, accumulated placement error will get me in a place where the two sides don't meet up accurately. They will either not be parallel to each other, or one side will be farther away (up and down, from the diagram perspective) than the other.
The overall dimensions are pretty standard residential. The whole floor is about 1400 sq ft. From top to bottom, the stairs/closet area is probably about 15 feet.
Am I worrying for nothing? Is this something that is normally done? Other than just being really careful, are there any tricks/tips I should be using to ensure a quality result?
Any advice would be most appreciated!
This is a schematic diagram of my project. I am planning on installing 6" width engineered hardwood flooring. The flooring will be running horizontally, relative to the perspective of this diagram. Everything in blue (both light and dark blue) will be covered with this floor.
My concern is this: Suppose I start in the sitting room/entryway/dining room. I run a strip and work from there. I am going to end up working my way around the center area (with the stairs/closet) from both sides, but then eventually, those sides need to meet up at the bottom.
I am concerned that either variations in the width of the boards or minor, accumulated placement error will get me in a place where the two sides don't meet up accurately. They will either not be parallel to each other, or one side will be farther away (up and down, from the diagram perspective) than the other.
The overall dimensions are pretty standard residential. The whole floor is about 1400 sq ft. From top to bottom, the stairs/closet area is probably about 15 feet.
Am I worrying for nothing? Is this something that is normally done? Other than just being really careful, are there any tricks/tips I should be using to ensure a quality result?
Any advice would be most appreciated!
#4
10-13-16, 08:24 AM
Member
Start in the center area and add a spline and work in both directions (north and south). For those planks used around your center fixture, I would carefully measure to make sure they are the same width. I would also remove all base molding to give you some wiggle room as you turn the corner.
I don't know from your drawing where the walls and archways are located so not sure how many starts and stops and reconnects you will be dealing with.
I don't know from your drawing where the walls and archways are located so not sure how many starts and stops and reconnects you will be dealing with.
#5
10-13-16, 08:34 AM
Group Moderator
By "center area" I am assuming that czizzi means the longest dimension across the house.... between the words living and room. Snap a chalk line there and follow it. Then snap an other chalk line parallel to it from sitting room to dining room. You can use this as a reference line to measure to... but in the end it is what it is. I dont think you will have much problem matching up as long as you start straight. But keep an eye out for any planks that seem one off. Also, double check your distances around the center fixture... and from your chalk lines to your exterior walls to try and prevent any unsightly tapers.
Go Huskers!
Go Huskers!
#6
10-13-16, 08:48 AM
This is what I am thinking. That first strip will be something like 30' long. From there, just carefully work my way down and hope for the best. One thing I'm thinking is that I can do a dry fit when I get within a few rows of the meet up row and maybe fudge the boards a bit as needed if it looks like they are going to be off. Not sure how much wiggle room I will have (1/32" per board?) before it shows, but I'm guessing that if I have four or six rows to adjust for alignment error, I can probably hide it.
#7
10-13-16, 09:07 AM
Group Moderator
I was suggesting the first strip be in between the words living and room. You usually start in the middle of the longest span, put a spline in, then work out from both sides.
#8
10-13-16, 09:11 AM
"I don't know from your drawing where the walls and archways are located so not sure how many starts and stops and reconnects you will be dealing with."
This version shows roughly where those are located.
This version shows roughly where those are located.
#9
10-13-16, 09:42 AM
"I was suggesting the first strip be in between the words living and room. You usually start in the middle of the longest span, put a spline in, then work out from both sides."
I hear you. The challenge I am working against is that in order to do that, I will have to take out the rest of the existing kitchen. I was hoping to avoid that as long as possible.
That said, the difference is really only going to be a few days, so I guess it is what it is.
I hear you. The challenge I am working against is that in order to do that, I will have to take out the rest of the existing kitchen. I was hoping to avoid that as long as possible.
That said, the difference is really only going to be a few days, so I guess it is what it is.
#10
10-16-16, 03:07 PM
I would establish the center baseline as close to the top walls of the kitchen and living room and stairs/closet as possible...this would allow the floor to flow into the Dining Room and Entry way without the potential for thin boards against these walls and in the passthru. Parallel lines would then be drawn near the top and bottom outer walls to ensure that everything is square and to determine if the outermost boards would require narrowing to allow for expansion gap.
