Should I install a second subfloor?


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Old 12-24-16, 07:30 PM
J
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Should I install a second subfloor?

Hi guys,

So I have a 100 year old house with, I'm guessing quarter sawn pine/fir flooring. A lot of the boards are pretty mangled from electrical work, some are splintered like they literally ripped them up. There are also a lot of screw holes, cross-cuts, and the cracks are pretty drafty over the front porch, so I've kind of already decided not to refinish them.

There was carpeting which I removed, and pulled out the baseboards (they had carpeted the baseboards!) so what's left is the original planks on top of the joists.

I want to install laminate flooring, should I put a layer of plywood down to even out the floor first, or can I get away with just an underlayment?

Another consideration is I'm trying to keep the total thickness to 1" to meet the height of the beveled marble threshold to the bathroom.

Would 3/8" plywood be enough? Would I screw through to the joists, or float the ply?











Thanks!
 
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Old 12-25-16, 02:05 AM
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How solid and level is the floor?

If it's good then I dont see why you need anything else?

Really thing that laminate option, I had that installed once and within two years ripped it out.

Laminate, despite it's looks, does not provide the feel of a real wood floor.
 
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Old 12-25-16, 04:19 AM
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I'm not that fond of laminate flooring either but there is a big difference between the cheap stuff and the better laminate flooring.

It looks like there is a dip where the patch is in the top two pics.
 
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Old 12-25-16, 05:14 AM
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First off, do not use laminate on the stairs, those should be redone with traditional oak treads. Secondly, the laminate does not really need a solid subfloor just flat and level. 3/8" isn't thick enough to supply any structural support to the subfloor. It will also be difficult to finish near the stairs and the ballusters to make it look nice.
 
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Old 12-25-16, 05:16 AM
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I'll have to drop my pennies in here, too. I refuse to install laminate flooring. If you don't plan on full 3/4" or 5/8" staple/cleat down hardwood flooring, at least consider click lock engineered flooring. Laminate is nothing more than medium density fiberboard with a picture of wood on it and aluminum oxide coating. Once it gets wet or the moisture level rises, it will swell and will become unviable as a good floor. At least with engineered flooring you have wood, and it feels like wood.

As with Marksr's concern, I agree with doing something with the middle patch, as it looks to dip there. You may want to lay a metal straight edge over the area and possibly float it out with self leveling compound before you install your flooring. SLC is fairly easy to use and will help eliminate dips in the floor.
 
 

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