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removing carpet and installing wood flooring, what to do besides taping up duct

removing carpet and installing wood flooring, what to do besides taping up duct

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  #1  
Old 05-29-17, 07:12 AM
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removing carpet and installing wood flooring, what to do besides taping up duct

Hi, I'm not sure if this should be posted in the hardwood flooring section or somewhere else like hvac.

We are planning to remove our carpet and install hardwood flooring throughout most of our home. Besides tackling the squeaky subfloor, what else should i consider doing while the carpet is removed and before laying down the wood flooring. I was thinking of taping up the hvac ducts joints that runs under the flooring. The house was built in the late 1970s and we just moved in 8 months ago. Thanks.
 
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  #2  
Old 05-29-17, 09:05 AM
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Evaluate the structure of your subfloor. What is it made of, how thick, T&G or not, nailed or screwed, lots of squeaks? Now is the time to address. Here is a guide to all things wood floor from the National Wood Flooring Association - http://tinytimbers.com/pdf/nwfa-install-guidelines.pdf

Read everything and pay attention to minimum requirements. If you have particle board (not OSB) it needs to come out as it will not properly hold a nail. Pull any squeaky nails and replace with screws,use deck screws not drywall screws. A lot of the success of a floor install is in the prep of the subfloor, so great question overall.
 
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Old 05-30-17, 04:22 AM
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Having been built in the 70's, my bet is on particle board subflooring. Hopefully not. While you are sealing up the HVAC joints, you should go ahead and insulate the ducts if they are not already done, extending that insulation up to the boot near the floor level.

What Chris said about the flooring. It all begins with a good subfloor, properly secured.
 
  #4  
Old 06-07-17, 09:37 AM
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Thanks czizzi and chandler for your quick response. I was meaning to thank you guys earlier.

second question. do you recommend engineered over a crawl space. a lot of wood flooring guys here say to use just solid hardwood because it's cheaper. I'm leaning towards shamrock white oak quarter sawn rift 4" x 3/4 or 5/8 engineered with a 4mm wear layer. white oak due to the stability of it. finishing on site to make sure the floor is sealed tight. planning to use it on the main floor that includes a kitchen (open concept) and upstairs that's above grade. i believe the main floor is plywood and below it is a crawl space that's not encapsulated. 36" from dirt to the studs.
 
  #5  
Old 06-07-17, 10:43 AM
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Have you determined your subfloor thickness yet? May play a role in your decision to float or nail. Any other items such as transition to stairs, dishwasher height, size of room for expansion control, etc?

Choice between solid and engineered will be totally up to you.
 
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