How to Figure / Lay this floor

I'm working on a large room, laying laminate. The width of the room is 17'4". I plan on running the length of the room so I get fewer cuts and so that the laminate runs across the joists. So far so good.

A quick figuring of the 8' wide laminate across the distance of 17'4" will give me EXACTLY 26 rows. Unfortunately, this does NOT include a doorway along the length of the room. I don't want to have a short 2" piece there in the doorway, as it seems it would be sort ofa weak point. My question is then, how to figure this in?

My first thought is to rip a whole row of the laminate in half, allowing me to cut one for the door, thus teh doorway would have a full 8" width and thus stronger. This then would mean another half row on the other side of the room, too.

Your thoughts?

 

When I work with a floor guy, he always starts us opposite the door so the door is about the last section that gets calculated & installed.

 

Hey, shorty, thanks for the reply.

Now, just so you understand, if I start on the wall opposite the door, I will end up with exactly enough to meet the wall on the opposite side. Exact. BUT again, I will need to cut a 2"-3" wide piece to fill in the door. Is this wise? Seems to me to be a weakening of the floor at that point.

If you feel that's the way to go, I'll do it. Just want to make sure this is right.....

 

I was always the helper on those jobs. I'm just reporting on how the boss did the job. I'm not going to say that it's written in stone. Will the 2" pieces be ripped or cut? Are you concerned with how it looks or just the strength?

 

My main concern is the strength. A doorway is going to have (obvs) more traffic than the edge of the room against the wall. I have done enough figuring on this, that I really feel that the best bet is to cut the laminate lengthwise and create two 4" sections on opposite walls....and include the door giving me enough spacing to do it properly.

 

Try not to end with a sliver cut like you said. Starting with a partial width board is smart as you can control how you end up. I dispise flooring installers who simply start with a full board and let it work itself out. I just installed a whole downstairs with a vinyl click lock composite where all the transitions worked out beautifully. Floor was contiguous with no transitions. I even impressed myself.

Lay out a dozen rows or more as a test fit and take measurements to each joint - I call it a story board. Then use those measurements to fine the most logical way to lay out your floor. It may take a little more material, but the strength secured with a solid front and back wall is worth it.

 

I agree with Czizzi. Is this an interior door or an exit door?

Cizzi, you assumed the floor joist were level before he lays the flooring!

 

This project is done (except for baseboards) I surprised myself by ending it up perfectly. Thanks for all the input!!