Sanding Sealers and Poly: Can you use water-based with oil?
#1
11-22-17, 06:39 PM
Sanding Sealers and Poly: Can you use water-based with oil?
I've been debating whether to go with a water or oil based poly for my red oak floors. I know the curing time and smell is longer with the oil but the finish product is much better.
I'm going to be using a sanding sealer and wanted to know if I go with a water-based sanding sealer, can I use an oil-based poly over it without any issues?
I'm having to buy products locally - likely Home Depot - and was looking at the Miniwax water-based sanding sealer. Or the Zinsser Bulls-eye Seal coat Shellac - if I have to use oil sealer for oil poly.
For the Poly I'm looking at the Rust-Oleum Pro Finisher 275 VOC.
I'm going to be using a sanding sealer and wanted to know if I go with a water-based sanding sealer, can I use an oil-based poly over it without any issues?
I'm having to buy products locally - likely Home Depot - and was looking at the Miniwax water-based sanding sealer. Or the Zinsser Bulls-eye Seal coat Shellac - if I have to use oil sealer for oil poly.
For the Poly I'm looking at the Rust-Oleum Pro Finisher 275 VOC.
#2
11-22-17, 07:27 PM
Group Moderator
Just read the label. Minwax sanding sealer is water based but it says on the label it can be used with either oil or water based poly. If you use a different brand of poly, like the Rustoleum... well, you would have to read that label to see what it recommends. (Pro Finisher Universal Sealer)
#3
11-23-17, 01:53 AM
An oil base sealer will deepen the colors naturally in the wood, a water based sealer does not. While an oil base poly applied over a water based sealer will amber some as it ages, it will not deepen the colors any because the water based sealer has already sealed the wood. If any spots are missed or sanded thru - those spots can change color once the oil poly is applied. When water based sealer/poly is used and you want the darker effect you need to use a light stain first. A lot depends on the look you are going for.
#5
11-23-17, 07:42 AM
Marksr, what about if I use that Zinsser shellac sealer? Would that be the right kind of sealer to use to allow the poly coats to penetrate?
I read that before there ere sealers people used to cut the first poly coat with 10% mineral spirits.
I read that before there ere sealers people used to cut the first poly coat with 10% mineral spirits.
#6
11-23-17, 08:19 AM
Group Moderator
The entire purpose of using a sanding sealer is to smooth the surface. Your initial coat of finish (whether it is poly or sanding sealer) is going to raise tiny wood fibers and drag impurities around on the floor... and you will be left with a relatively rough surface that needs to be lightly sanded.
So you want your first coat to be easy to sand. That's where sanding sealer comes in. When lightly sanded, it turns to a powder and leaves you with a nice smooth surface. Once you have cleaned the dust off, you are ready for your floor finish... and you will lightly sand between each coat just to remove impurities.
So you want your first coat to be easy to sand. That's where sanding sealer comes in. When lightly sanded, it turns to a powder and leaves you with a nice smooth surface. Once you have cleaned the dust off, you are ready for your floor finish... and you will lightly sand between each coat just to remove impurities.
#7
11-23-17, 02:47 PM
Since not all sanding sealers and polys are compatible with each other - most just apply 3 coats of poly, sanding between coats. I always use sanding sealer under varnish [on woodwork] I only have a little experience with clear/tinted shellacs.
