replacing rotted T&G 3/4x3" with redwood planks 7/8 x12 x 32?

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Old 03-04-18, 07:48 AM
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replacing rotted T&G 3/4x3" with redwood planks 7/8 x12 x 32?

Hi
Im a novice yet ambitious diy person. i have pulled up about 100+-sf of rotted fir subfloor. I was intending to replace with redwood planks (overlapping) that I have on hand. I will be reinstalling 3/4 x3" hardwood floor on top. $ is tight. I will do the installation of both subfloor repair and hardwood finish as learning experience and cost saver. Hence my thought to use materials I already have. I have a recycled rubber sound barrier as my underlayment.
Most advice calls for plywood on top of plank flooring and the boards to be run in the direction of the joists. opposite of t&g and plank replacement.
Is this going to be something I will regret? help please
 
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Old 03-04-18, 08:22 AM
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Reuse of 3" x3/4 cumaru flooring

Part 2 of my floor questions
I have pulled up the previously installed T&G hardwood finish floor with mixed success leaving the tongue intact. My plan is a cut off damage side, route new groove and use a spline to connect boards. Which will leave me with some thinner pieces to mix into layout. I also have 200sf of plank to be milled in addition as the kitchen footprint has expanded.. Is use of a spline in this manner ok?
My router is a !/4 shank and seems underpowered for the job. Im concerned i will not get a good result repairing and milling my lumber myself with this router. Should i invest in !/2 shank router and a quality T&G bit? If so is it based on HP? Seek out a woodshop to mill my lumber? Rough cost per ft? Can anyone help me think this through? I will be cleat nailing and finishing with tung oil.
 
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Old 03-04-18, 04:42 PM
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Sounds like a whole lot of work and expense to me.
Why not install new flooring?
I'd want to be using a shaper, or at least a router table, not a hand held router.
Your right a 1/4 shank is not going to work.
 
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Old 03-04-18, 04:49 PM
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I'd do it with Advantech subflooring not plywood and for sure not more strips.
It's far more likely to squeak.
 
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Old 03-04-18, 05:16 PM
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Most advice calls for plywood on top of plank flooring and the boards to be run in the direction of the joists.
Don't know where you got that from. The long dimension of the plywood is run perpendicular to the joists. Same with the flooring.
 
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Old 03-04-18, 05:54 PM
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Have merged your two threads on the same floor. Please try to keep all posts on the same topic in the same thread for continuity of those reading and trying to follow.

As previously stated, subfloor and underlayment are installed perpendicular to the joist system for strength. You can use 15# felt between layers to cut down on creaks and squeaks, but not a rubber material, you don't want something that has vertical movement.

You are also going to be sorely disappointed in any milling that results in short width product. When installing flooring, even a 1/16th of a difference in milling will stand out like a sore thumb when installed next to a full width piece. When the next row goes in, it exacerbates the gap. Yes, very ambitious for a novice. Not even sure I would want to take on this level of repair. Too many simple ways that the results would be less than satisfactory.
 
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