how to handle tongue & groove to get under door casing around doorway


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Old 05-07-18, 02:08 PM
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how to handle tongue & groove to get under door casing around doorway

I am installing Click Lock Bamboo Flooring. Per installation instructions, I started on one wall with the tongue side of the boards facing that wall. Then, each succeeding row of boards requires inserting of the tongue into to the groove The boards in the row being added must be held at a slight angle to the preceding row as the tongue is inserted into the groove; the tongue must be completely inserted to allow the new board to be seated into the click-lock groove. Any of you who have installed click lock engineered wood or laminate flooring know what I'm talking about.

The problem facing me now is how to complete the installation of boards along a doorway. The photo shows door to a bathroom; the door is on a small hallway. I completed installation around a door on the other side of the hallway. But, in that case, the tongue edge of the board was facing toward the doorway, Now, as I approach the doorway in the photo, the tongue edge is facing away from the doorway and the groove side is facing toward the doorway.

The objective, to achieve the best visual outcome in the final result, is to get the flooring under the door casings and door jamb. But, I can't see a way to do this. I could remove the casing on the right and left side of the door, measure and cut a board the place there, and then reinstall the casings. I could also remove the Door Stop Moulding. But, I would still not be able to get under the door jambs, which is necessary to achieve the best visual effect for the end result.

Any advise or insight would be appreciated.

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Last edited by PJmax; 11-23-19 at 06:28 PM. Reason: resized picture
  #2  
Old 05-07-18, 02:49 PM
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You'd undercut the casing/jamb so the flooring slides under it. They make a power saw for that but you can also use a hand saw with a scrap piece of flooring as a guide.
 
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Old 05-07-18, 03:09 PM
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Right, I understand that procedure. I have undercut casings and jambs where they were too low to allow the flooring to fit under. But, that does not answer the question of the general procedure for installing Click Lock flooring, as explained in my original post. I could slip pieces of flooring under the casings & jamb, but then I can't tilt those pieces to get them seated and locked into the grooves.
 
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Old 05-07-18, 03:32 PM
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What I do is try to have a joint in the doorway so you can slip under each side one at a time. Then shave off most of the "click" part of the interlock, but leave just an inch here or there so it will still click together. But like you say you can't tip it so you have to drive it together flat. Leaving just an inch of the click indent on each end allows you to drive it together flat with a hammer and sacrificial scrap. You would never click it together if you didn't shave most of it off.
 
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Old 05-07-18, 04:11 PM
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OK, XSleeper, I think I see how that could work. I wonder whether a belt sander could be used to shave off most of the "click" part of the interlock. I think I'll test that; I think it might work if the grit of sandpaper belt used is not too coarse Otherwise, I suspect it would too aggressive and shave off too much. Also, I am thinking the "shaving off" could be done on either the ridge on the bottom side of the groove (the lower lip that sticks out beyond the actual groove) or the ridge on underside of the tongue side of the boards. Trying to explain details of design, without pictures, is difficult since different products have differences in tongue and groove design. But, I understand the basic concept of shaving off an edge or ridge to bypass the normal click-lock functionality.
 
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Old 05-07-18, 04:31 PM
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Nope, no belt sander!!! Just use a sharp utility knife. A piece of fine sandpaper to clean it up. Experiment with how much to take off. Some areas need to be left intact for it to click tightly. A 1" click area every 6-8" or so usually works for me.
 
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Old 05-07-18, 05:26 PM
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I often remove the whole groove and then use engineered flooring glue to glue the two rows together. Sometimes depending on the click lock system, you can get it to engage without shaving anything off. Near the wall, use a flat pry bar as leverage to force the pieces together. In the door opening, like X said, use a piece of scrap, engage the scrap and them use a hammer to pound the scrap until the piece gets together.
 
 

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