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Does caulking on sole plate interfere with expansion gap?

Does caulking on sole plate interfere with expansion gap?

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07-01-18, 11:38 AM

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edee_em

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Does caulking on sole plate interfere with expansion gap?

Sorry for the long title. Hopefully it makes for a shorter message. Just wondering if caulking placed along sole plate of exterior wall has the potential to interfere with the expansion gap left for hardwood flooring? My guess is that it would "give" if met with expanding wood but I don't know enough to make any bets on that theory. Thoughts?

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07-01-18, 12:33 PM

XSleeper

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The wood floor comes nowhere near the framing. So no, it would not be an issue.

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Solid Hardwood, Engineered and Laminate Flooring
Subfloor repair question

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petethebuilder on Jun 09, 2018

I've ripped out old tile and underlayment in preparation to lay down a solid wood floor, 2 1/4" x 3/4". (I've already gotten some help with this project on two other threads). My subfloor is made up of diagonally running solid 7 3/8" planks, 3/4" thick. Having gotten to this point, I now realize that I have never had any insulation in this floor which isn't good because under it is an unheated garage. Also, this project is actually part of a larger project that involves removing a load bearing wall and as a result of that, I'll need to relocate some ductwork which will also involve tearing up the subfloor. And beyond that, some of the pieces don't look so good. For all I know this is the original floor from the 1950s when this house was built Long story short, I'm going to need to remove and replace a good portion of this subfloor. Questions: 1) When I replace the pieces, can I just use 3/4" plywood? I've checked a modern piece of ply against the thickness and it matches up very well. Is there any problem with a mix of solid and ply subfloor when placing solid 3/4" red oak flooring on top? I can't tell what the original plank is made of. 2) When I do cut up parts of the subfloor, cutting over the joists, is it okay to reuse the same wood and put it back? Is there any rule about how long of a run I should have? 3) The subfloor planks stop at the wall that runs the length of the room. When this wall is removed, I'll need to put down new subfloor again with the solid 3/4" wood going over the top. I can just cut back to the nearest joist and fill in more plank, but is there any problem with having all the planks cut at the same point? In other words, how important is it that the subfloor joints be staggered as you might be concerned when placing underpayment for tile. Not sure if I've explained this well or if it's even an issue. Being I'm repairing and replacing some parts in the kitchen area already, I could wait until the wall is gone and put down longer runs. 4) Any general comments on condition of floor (see image)? Also, when everything is where I want it and it's time to lay down the solid wood floor, is it a good idea to go over the whole thing and add fresh screws just to firm it up? Image Kitchen Area: [IMG]http://i971.photobucket.com/albums/ae197/mypicstrix/floor%20102.jpg[/IMG] On the right hand side from this angle is the wall that will be removed. Looking closely, you can see the vertical ductwork that will need to be moved. For those following my other thread about ripping out or toothing in, the doorway in the back right (and short wall to the right of it) represent the area I will have to tooth in. Image of dining room, looking in the opposite direction of the photo above.: [IMG]http://i971.photobucket.com/albums/ae197/mypicstrix/floor%20103.jpg[/IMG] From this view the wall to be removed is on the left. For those following my other thread, this is the section I was asking about toothing in or ripping out. Closer image of subfloor condition and thickness: [IMG]http://i971.photobucket.com/albums/ae197/mypicstrix/floor%20101.jpg[/IMG]Read More
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