Oh no, I used slippery polyurethane (oil based) on hardwood floor
#1
12-15-18, 04:59 AM
Oh no, I used slippery polyurethane (oil based) on hardwood floor
After sanding the floor (about 600 square feet), I laid down my first coat of polyurethane, am not mentioning the product name. It was oil based and I was told by the nice man in Home Depot that would be fine for hardwood flooring. And it looks great. But it is slippery enough that it is definitely a problem.
For my second coat of oil based polyurethane that I will lay down on top of it, can anyone recommend a product that will not be slippery?
Also, is it really necessary to light sand the first coat to prepare it for the second coat?
Thanks!
For my second coat of oil based polyurethane that I will lay down on top of it, can anyone recommend a product that will not be slippery?
Also, is it really necessary to light sand the first coat to prepare it for the second coat?
Thanks!
#2
12-15-18, 05:24 AM
You always want to sand lightly [and remove dust] between coats of poly. That promotes good adhesion along with making for a nicer, smoother job. Finished hardwood floors are always somewhat slick.
#3
12-15-18, 05:28 AM
Marksr, Thx for your reply. About the slipperiness, are you saying that initially the freshly finished floors are more slippery but over time that decreases?
#4
12-15-18, 05:39 AM
Member
A side note concerning applying poly to floors. Yesterday a customer asked if a sponge roller or fiber roller can be used to apply poly on a hardwood floor. He said a contractor used one on his floor and it's a mess. My first thought was no it cannot be used, but I was at a loss to explain why. The MinWax can says to use a brush or a sponge deck type pad for application.
Not feeling comfortable with my instincts and not clear about the application directions from the can, I called Minwax on the spot and asked their expert.
His reply without hesitation and very matter of fact, do not use a foam or any type of roller to apply poly. Reason is, It's too aggressive and will leave tiny air bubbles. And as Marksr says, you must lightly sand between coats.
Not feeling comfortable with my instincts and not clear about the application directions from the can, I called Minwax on the spot and asked their expert.
His reply without hesitation and very matter of fact, do not use a foam or any type of roller to apply poly. Reason is, It's too aggressive and will leave tiny air bubbles. And as Marksr says, you must lightly sand between coats.
#5
12-15-18, 05:39 AM
As the poly wears [which will lightly scratch the poly] it will loose some of the slickness. Usually slick hardwood isn't an issue unless you are in stocking feet ..... and maybe a tad careless.
.
I've seen mohair rollers used with somewhat acceptable results but the best finish is achieved by either brush or a lambswool pad.
The MinWax can says to use a brush or a sponge deck type pad for application
I've seen mohair rollers used with somewhat acceptable results but the best finish is achieved by either brush or a lambswool pad.
Last edited by marksr; 12-15-18 at 05:42 AM. Reason: add to Norm's comment
#6
12-15-18, 08:32 AM
Member
I was told by the nice man in Home Depot that would be fine for hardwood flooring
Its getting so bad at these stores they cant even tell you where items are located.
Was looking for muratic acid, we were standing in the cement/block area, guy said he was sure it was in the paint department, right at the same time that I picked up a gallon!
#7
12-15-18, 09:03 AM
Yes, sand between coats then clean up the sanding dust. Rust o leum or minwax are fine. Do not use a fast drying. Use a brush or pad to apply. I punch two holes in the can lid then pour it out on the floor working parallel to the flooring in about 24" applications. Overlapping slightly. The final (3rd) coat I use a satin finish. I want to highlight the beauty of the wood but not the imperfections you would see with gloss or semi-gloss.
