Need help laying Engineered wood

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Old 02-13-19, 04:55 PM
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Need help laying Engineered wood

So Iím attempting to lay a floating floor in a room, and have a question about the transition into the room. As the picture shows, the transition doesnít have a T-piece.

how do I approach this? I believe the periodic use board is glued down, and I know the floating floor needs space to expand


 
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Old 02-13-19, 05:06 PM
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Not sure I understand the question. Are you laying a floating floor over the top of the floor that is pictured? What brand/line of flooring?
 
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Old 02-13-19, 05:29 PM
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I am taking the carpet up, and laying Shaw wood where the carpet is. Iím worried about not having some space between the floating floor in the room and the glued floor in the hallway
 
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Old 02-13-19, 05:52 PM
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I see, that makes more sense. Yes, that's why your instructions will tell you to put in a t-moulding and leave the correct amount of gap. The top of the t moulding snaps on and covers the gap. You don't have to worry about the glued floor when you use the t-moulding. You will, however need to undercut your casing and jamb anywhere that the floating floor needs to slip under. At the baseboard, you will need to leave a gap and trim the floating floor edges with matching baseshoe.
 
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Old 02-13-19, 07:03 PM
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So what is the type of existing floor, 3/4"?

Suggestion would be to use similar/same, then just use the existing threshold that is there, assuming it has the proper tongue/grove for a much, much cleaner look than that of a transition "T"!
 
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Old 02-13-19, 07:40 PM
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assuming it has the proper tongue/grove
You can't butt it up tight to a tongue or groove. Floating floors need a gap for expansion and contraction. That's why a t-molding is used. The only way to use the existing transition would be if it could be undercut about 1/2" with a router so that it could slip under... and you can't do that if it's glued down.

Shaw instructions say:

"Note: Any pre-existing wood panels or strips that are floating or direct glued to the concrete slab, must be removed before installing Shaw Engineered Hardwood flooring using the floating method. "

Also see the section on T-molding. You will want to follow the mfg's installation instructions.
https://www.shawcontract.com/Content...3-10-rev-B.pdf
 
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Old 02-14-19, 06:35 AM
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Thanks for the advice. A T-molding should work and hopefully I can find a thin piece and it doesnít look too bad. Unfortunately it wonít be centered with the frame
 
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Old 02-14-19, 08:00 AM
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Floors should generally transition directly under the closed door, so you could always cut the existing one back a little and remove the waste to move the t-moulding back farther.

I don't know what your height difference will be once the new floor is laid next to the old... your t moulding might sit at an angle or you might need to make a custom one.
 
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Old 02-14-19, 09:11 AM
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You can't butt it up tight to a tongue or groove. Floating floors need a gap for expansion and contraction
Statement was, if existing floor was 3/4 (nailed down I would assume) then another option would be to use the same type of flooring and use a threashold , like what is there, and eliminate the need for an unsightly "T"!
 
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Old 02-14-19, 09:40 AM
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I believe the periodic use board is glued down
Oh, ok.
use the existing threshold that is there, assuming it has the proper tongue/grove
you mean a rabbet edge. Where the bottom half is completely cut out on the transition so the new flooring can slip underneath and still have room to expand. (Not tongue and groove.) Still a little hard to do if the piece is glued down like he said.

 

Last edited by XSleeper; 02-14-19 at 09:57 AM.
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