We are installing a 3/4" hardwood flooring in a bedroom.
#1
10-25-19, 06:47 AM
We are installing a 3/4" hardwood flooring in a bedroom.
This room is connected through the doorway to existing hardwood flooring that was run straight. After connecting at the door and running a couple rows, we then finished off from the room rows into a closet. At the back wall of the closet, we noticed the last row was narrower on one end of about 2 inches. This has caused the opposite side to be running in a non-straight line. How is the best way to correct this without having to take up everything we have already fastened down. Can we continue to run in the non-straight line without causing problems later.
#3
10-25-19, 07:03 AM
It is in the closet but when we get to the other side of the room it will be off as well. I'm not worried about it not being completely straight, just didn't want to finish the room and then have places buckle up.
#4
10-25-19, 08:06 AM
Member
Straight and buckling have nothing to do with each other!
Should have been resolve at the beginning but if you going to continue I would get 2 sets of boards that make up one row and taper them 1", continue 2-3' then do a second row of tapers.
Doing this in the middle of the room will likely be covered up with rugs and or furniture and not noticable.
I would encourage you to pull it up, taking up a wood floor is relatively easy and fast, making all those tapers is not!
Should have been resolve at the beginning but if you going to continue I would get 2 sets of boards that make up one row and taper them 1", continue 2-3' then do a second row of tapers.
Doing this in the middle of the room will likely be covered up with rugs and or furniture and not noticable.
I would encourage you to pull it up, taking up a wood floor is relatively easy and fast, making all those tapers is not!
#5
10-25-19, 08:07 AM
Group Moderator
We don't know what orientation you are running your planks or where the closet is located. Posting a picture would help a lot. Without know what you have it's hard to offer specific instructions.
Basically you need to lay the planks so it works out. If your pattern is getting crooked you need to back up to where it was straight. Then every couple rows take measurements to insure you are staying straight. Rows can be pushed together harder or left ever so slightly loose to adjust and make the rows run straight.
Basically you need to lay the planks so it works out. If your pattern is getting crooked you need to back up to where it was straight. Then every couple rows take measurements to insure you are staying straight. Rows can be pushed together harder or left ever so slightly loose to adjust and make the rows run straight.
#6
10-25-19, 08:16 AM
Perhaps a diagram of the room would be useful.
You cannot use a 3 foot doorway as the starter and expect it to be straight for a large room,
If you are off 2 inches in a 6 foot closet then you could be out over 6 inches on a 18 foot room and it will look like crap.
Also it could be that the closet is out of square.
You cannot use a 3 foot doorway as the starter and expect it to be straight for a large room,
If you are off 2 inches in a 6 foot closet then you could be out over 6 inches on a 18 foot room and it will look like crap.
Also it could be that the closet is out of square.
#7
10-25-19, 04:49 PM
Group Moderator
The short answer is no... There is no way to fix the taper without starting over. So I hope you can live with it. But no, it should not buckle if you are nailing it properly and maintaining a gap for expansion at the perimeter of the room.
Checking your layout for square before you begin, looking for any potential tapers is basic stuff that you now know to check next time.
Checking your layout for square before you begin, looking for any potential tapers is basic stuff that you now know to check next time.
