I have a router table so want to create my own bull nose step. However, there are 2 subfloors. one level with the current riser, then 1/2' osb then 3/4" hardwood. If I create a flat bullnose then I'm going to see the osb as I come up the stairs so I want to create something like this: How can I do that on a router table or is it in 2 stages with glue? I need to create the rounded nose then the step difference of maybe 1/4"

17x17 kitchen. Vinyl flooring likely was installed in the 70s. I definitely want to keep it vs ripping it up. Currently I have just a kitchen table, water cooler and ¾ size freezer ‘on the floor’. Ive installed a floating laiminate floor on a small bathroom and foyer floor 5 years ago. It was the kind that has a glue edge, not click lock. I do recall the tedium of special cutting around all my trim but it hasn’t buckled so I must have done it correctly . Now I want to do my kitchen. PA has weather from 0 to 100 degrees and ive already heard the foyer floor expand and contract. While suggestions on what floor from the lowes/home depot would be best for me are appreciated, right now my main concern is whether or not to put and island in first or wait until after the floor is installed. also is using the stuff with underlayment attached good enough. i do have a very damp crawlspace under the house. 1 From what I read I should install a new island first so the floating floor isn’t trapped under it and cannot move. Is this correct? 2 Is the same true for the fridge? Currrent fridge sticks out about 1 foot from the cabinets. Of course I can customize the cut for the current fridge so you cannot really see the old floor but whatever new fridge I get would seem to be a possible problem down the road. I guess people just deal with it and keep a spare box of flooring? 3. can I just keep the same toe kicks on the existing cabinets and leave the ¼ inch gap 4. I have hot water baseboards along 2 of the long walls. Im assuming this will make it easier to install the floor since I can leave a ‘bigger gap’ as it sticks out about 1 inch from the wall. Do I have to get the floor closer to the wall or just hide it good enough so you cannot see where the floor ends? (basically would be nice to have to not make a perfect ‘edge’ under the baseboards. ) 5. I have 3 doorways leading out of my kitchen. One door leads to the utility room and has the typical old metal strip between the surfaces. The 2 other doors lead to a hall and then a dining room. Both used to have deep carpet but when I ripped it out I bought wooden strips that were more level. Now with my new floor it will be a bit higher. Can I assume there will be some kind of angled strip that takes into account this minimal change in height from room to room. 6. is the upright freezer ok to be on the floating floor or do I have to float around it as well. Im pretty sure the position of it wont be changing but it’s definitely more portable than the fridge. Currently the freezer is in a corner of the kitchen and about 1ft from one wall (need access to outlets) and 4 inches from the other. 7. I put a level down in a few places on the floor and there doesn’t appear to be any glaring craziness going on. But even if there is a slight slope im assuming the floating part of the floor will compensate, hope. But how do you really know if you have a level floor? 8 how do you know which way to run the floor? 9. i have one corner where a wall oven is and its an angle. i have no idea how that will work, any suggestions. just try to run it 'to the end' and do tons of really not so fun angle cutting or just make it 'its own thing' if you know what i mean