Few Question with LVT in Small Bathroom
#1
09-13-20, 02:21 PM
Few Question with LVT in Small Bathroom
Hi all,
I am looking to use Lumber Liquidator's CoreLuxe Engineered Vinyl Plank (EVP) flooring in a small bathroom. I have the old flooring removed and the subfloor is 3/4" plywood. I have the old vanity and toilet removed. I plan on tiling under where the toilet and vanity will go and inside the closet.
I've attached a quick AutoCAD sketch I did of the floorplan.
Here's my questions:
I am looking to use Lumber Liquidator's CoreLuxe Engineered Vinyl Plank (EVP) flooring in a small bathroom. I have the old flooring removed and the subfloor is 3/4" plywood. I have the old vanity and toilet removed. I plan on tiling under where the toilet and vanity will go and inside the closet.
I've attached a quick AutoCAD sketch I did of the floorplan.
Here's my questions:
- Outside of the bathroom, I have laminate tile flooring in the hallway. I imagine I would want the EVP to run the same direction, which would long from the tub to the closet.
- Can I safely just run the tiles up to about 1/8" from the tub and then caulk the gap?
- While I understand this is a "floating" type floor, how much will it actually need to expand or move? I will also be tiling up to or even slightly under the drywall as I have the base trim all removed as well.
- Should I lay down LL's Tranquility Ultra LVT Underlayment?
- The tiles I like from them are 6" x 48". Any pointers to where to start the layout or where I want full tiles? Since I am tiling into the closet, I imagine I wand full tiles crossing that doorway.
- I do have about a 1/4" gap between two pieces of subfloor where there was a repair. Almost all of this gap will be under the vanity...and about 10" or less will not be, but I don't think anyone would be standing on a tile over the gap. Would this be a problem?
#2
09-13-20, 02:36 PM
Group Moderator
In such a small room you wont have much problem with expansion and contraction, so it will probably be fine. You will need to undercut all your jambs and I would recommend starting on the doorway wall and work back toward the vanity and toilet. Your last pieces there will be easier to install. Try to measure things out so that your first and last piece are as large as possible. (First and last pieces might need to be ripped to a width that will enable that to work). I probably wouldnt use an underlayment if your floor is flat, but if you have any minor variation, it would be a good idea. As always, follow your product directions.
The subfloor gap should not be any problem at all. Caulk it with PL Polyurethane if it concerns you.
The subfloor gap should not be any problem at all. Caulk it with PL Polyurethane if it concerns you.
#3
09-13-20, 07:24 PM
Why wouldn't you recommend an underlayment? My understanding is that it can help create a better feel for the tiles in addition to helping with sound, not that I have enough imperfections to get any sounds. Does an underlayment help protect the subfloor should the floor get wet? I realize that if installed tightly water shouldn't be able to seep easily.
I'm looking at this product.
I'm looking at this product.
#4
09-13-20, 07:51 PM
Also, since the short ends will be along the tub, what's the shortest piece I should try to have at either end?
#5
09-13-20, 07:57 PM
Group Moderator
I didnt say I didnt recommend underlayment. You can use it if you want. Personally in a bathroom, where there is an increased chance of it getting wet once in a blue moon, I wouldnt use it because it could hold that water and prevent it from drying... (from being absorbed by the subfloor). IMO it's better for that water to dry and evaporate than to be trapped between 2 vapor barriers and squish around while you walk on it for who knows how long.
Your instructions should tell you the shortest piece they recommend using. Usually 12" with most products.
Your instructions should tell you the shortest piece they recommend using. Usually 12" with most products.
#6
10-12-20, 06:05 PM
So, another question...
Laying out the tiles so that they flow into the closet means the inside of the closet is going to have a few tiles that are only 2' long. I imagine since you can't walk on this area and can hardly see it, it doesn't matter that there is no staggering in there and that it is just single 2' sections? right up against each other?
Laying out the tiles so that they flow into the closet means the inside of the closet is going to have a few tiles that are only 2' long. I imagine since you can't walk on this area and can hardly see it, it doesn't matter that there is no staggering in there and that it is just single 2' sections? right up against each other?
#7
10-12-20, 07:37 PM
Group Moderator
You still have staggering through the closet doorway opening. Whether or not you continue that pattern as you work back beyond the doorway in the closet is up to you. Typically you would keep the pattern going.
#8
10-12-20, 08:59 PM
Yeah, if you look at the floorplan I put in the original post, looks like I can have maybe some staggering right in the door but past that where I've only got 2 ft between walls, it doesn't seem to make sense to stagger at all.
I'm still not real clear on the best approach for along the tub. Should I cut the tiles as tight and even as possible along the tub, or purposefully leave a gap, and caulk? I've seen some use quarter round along the tub but that doesn't look right to my eye. I am guessing I want things to be tight and caulked to prevent water from ever reaching the subfloor?
I'm still not real clear on the best approach for along the tub. Should I cut the tiles as tight and even as possible along the tub, or purposefully leave a gap, and caulk? I've seen some use quarter round along the tub but that doesn't look right to my eye. I am guessing I want things to be tight and caulked to prevent water from ever reaching the subfloor?
