Hardwood acclimation
#1
10-05-20, 05:36 PM
Hardwood acclimation
I have my solid hardwood red oak floors sitting waiting for me to install. They have been sitting in the room since 10/1 and I plan to start installing 10/9. I have been monitoring w my pin moisture meter. Room is 55% relative humidity and 69 degrees.
subfloor is moisture of 10% and hardwoods are at a moisture of 5.5%. If I continue to let them acclimate will the moisture of the hardwoods get closer to 10%?
the hardwoods are 5inches wide and from what I read they should be within 2% of the subfloor moisture?
subfloor is moisture of 10% and hardwoods are at a moisture of 5.5%. If I continue to let them acclimate will the moisture of the hardwoods get closer to 10%?
the hardwoods are 5inches wide and from what I read they should be within 2% of the subfloor moisture?
#2
10-06-20, 03:09 AM
Member
About this same time three years ago I was starting my wood floor project, 3 rooms, 3/4x5 oak floor, wood was purchased late summer and project finished up around Thanksgiving.
All was well through winter, but come following summer when humidity started rising, the floor, the entire floor literally pulled itself up.
Had to go back pull everything up, reinstall, not as bad as it sounds but was fully unexpected.
After a lot of discussions/searches I found that the wide planks are super sensitive to moisture content. When they start sucking moisture they swell and start moving, have never seen anything like this in other floors I installed but they were all narrow planks.
I reinstalled in the middle of the summer, hot muggy conditions, max moisture, have had no issues. This summer I did the great room, middle of summer, hot muggy conditions.
I have vowed to never install any wood floor at any time other than summer, I dont like doing anything twice!
All was well through winter, but come following summer when humidity started rising, the floor, the entire floor literally pulled itself up.
Had to go back pull everything up, reinstall, not as bad as it sounds but was fully unexpected.
After a lot of discussions/searches I found that the wide planks are super sensitive to moisture content. When they start sucking moisture they swell and start moving, have never seen anything like this in other floors I installed but they were all narrow planks.
I reinstalled in the middle of the summer, hot muggy conditions, max moisture, have had no issues. This summer I did the great room, middle of summer, hot muggy conditions.
I have vowed to never install any wood floor at any time other than summer, I dont like doing anything twice!
#3
10-06-20, 03:26 AM
Group Moderator
The flooring in my house is 5" wide American cherry planks and we love to open the house for long periods in spring and fall so I knew moisture content and swelling was going to be an issue. Making things worse I have Advantech as my subfloor which is very moisture resistant and dimensionally stable so there is almost always going to be a disagreement between our sub and finish flooring. I installed my floor in late summer and I did not take moisture readings. In February when the house is very dry all the way through I can see where small gaps have opened between the planks. Then in summer when our humidity is higher the gaps are closed. Luckily we've had no trouble with buckling or lifting. I think it is due to installing when the flooring was at least partially swelled. The downside is putting up with the small gaps between planks in winter.
If you are an indoor person who's house is always closed and with the heat or AC running then I would pay more attention to the humidity levels as you are. If you are somewhat in between then you could go for a compromise and install your flooring while it still has a higher moisture content than your subfloor.
If you are an indoor person who's house is always closed and with the heat or AC running then I would pay more attention to the humidity levels as you are. If you are somewhat in between then you could go for a compromise and install your flooring while it still has a higher moisture content than your subfloor.
#4
10-06-20, 07:01 AM
Member
Luckily we've had no trouble with buckling or lifting. I think it is due to installing when the flooring was at least partially swelled.
I wish I had a moisture meter, would have been nice to know what the change was!
#6
10-07-20, 05:10 AM
Member
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I wish I had a moisture meter, would have been nice to know what the change was!
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Moisture meters are quick and handy but an accurate account of moisture throughout a sample can be calculated mathematically.
I wish I had a moisture meter, would have been nice to know what the change was!
*********************************************************************
Moisture meters are quick and handy but an accurate account of moisture throughout a sample can be calculated mathematically.
#7
10-07-20, 05:40 AM
Member
can be calculated mathematically.
#8
10-07-20, 05:58 AM
Member
Not significant. Moisture content can change in transit. It's a long way from china.
Check MC when you receive it. If it is within reason install it. If MC is too great acclimate it until you are satisfied with the MC. If MC is too low when you receive it acclimate it until you are happy with it.
Check MC when you receive it. If it is within reason install it. If MC is too great acclimate it until you are satisfied with the MC. If MC is too low when you receive it acclimate it until you are happy with it.
Here's my questions:
[list]
[*]Outside of the bathroom, I have laminate tile flooring in the hallway. I imagine I would want the EVP to run the same direction, which would long from the tub to the closet.
[*]Can I safely just run the tiles up to about 1/8" from the tub and then caulk the gap?
[*]While I understand this is a "floating" type floor, how much will it actually need to expand or move? I will also be tiling up to or even slightly under the drywall as I have the base trim all removed as well.
[*]Should I lay down LL's Tranquility Ultra LVT Underlayment?
[*]The tiles I like from them are 6" x 48". Any pointers to where to start the layout or where I want full tiles? Since I am tiling into the closet, I imagine I wand full tiles crossing that doorway.
[*]I do have about a 1/4" gap between two pieces of subfloor where there was a repair. Almost all of this gap will be under the vanity...and about 10" or less will not be, but I don't think anyone would be standing on a tile over the gap. Would this be a problem?
[/list]
