I'm installing 12' of 3/8" x 2-3/4" wooden stair nose (white oak) along the step to my sunken living room and would like to join the ends of the two pieces securely so they do not shift over time (longest piece I could find is 94"). What's the best way to do this? Cut a notch in the back of the nose and/or underside of the flat part and glue a small spline between the two pieces? Recess and screw a thin metal strap underneath? Should I leave a 1/16" gap between the ends and fill with putty or butt the ends tightly? I will be staining the stair noise a dark color. I have a table saw and a router.
That's a post not a wall. And the distance from wall to post is 98". The longest piece of stairnose I could find is 94". So that is the farthest to the left I can put the seam. I could flip it to the other side, which is less traveled and behind a chair, but would still want to join the two pieces properly.
Scarf joint looks good. Just wasn't sure what that would look like with a stair nose and how tricky it would be to execute.
A scarf joint is great if it's done right. Other wise it looks real bad.
But I'm confused. You have a 144" (12 feet) length to cover. Each piece of molding comes 96" long. No matter where the post is located you should be able to have the seam fall dead center of it. And I would rather have a butt seam located at a post or wall surface where it will hardly be seen rather than in the middle of traffic where possible sock snagging might occur or warpage, or moisture or any sharp object could lift up the joint. Again if you can make the scarf joint perfect like a factory mill then go for it.
I'll have to watch a few videos on how to do a scarf joint to see if I can pull it off. I have enough material to do two joints if that would be better. That would allow me to place one dead center of the post then another 6" from the right wall, which is behind a chair.
The scarf joint with the short straight section looks ideal, but I'm not sure how to pull that off. A simple 45 on each piece or an overlap is simple enough though.
Here's another image showing the entire step (stair nose is placed temporarily). As is, the joint is only 3" from the post, but if centering it with the post would be better, I have no problem doing so. However, I would have a second joint behind the chair.
I need help removing milky white spots that are suddenly appearing on my Pergo Outlast laminate floor. I have used only vinegar and water in a spray bottle to clean the floors. I have no idea what these spots are or why they are suddenly appearing after 3 years. These spots are in my kitchen, hallway, and family room. I contacted Pergo and they suggested I try using 1/3 cup ammonia with a gallon of water. Nothing. I've searched the web and have tried using rubbing alcohol, hydrogen peroxide with baking powder, toothpaste, and distilled water. When I run my hand over the spots, they feel smoothe--I don't feel a build-up. I've had no other issues with my Pergo floor. Any ideas? Please and thank you.
I have a house on steel poles 1 metre above ground level. The floors throughout the house are hardwood and there is no subfloor... We want to try and make the house a bit quieter... Is anyone aware of a solution where we can apply rubber or something else underneath the floor to help with noise?
I have searched and searched and the solutions appear to be aimed at floating floors or floors with sub floors..
Appreciate any advice
many thanks
David
01-05-21, 10:49 AM
So am I to assume the post is in the middle? or the 98" is on either side? Right or left.
