I am planning out my project to lay some laminate.
What I can't figure out how to do is lay the laminate and account for non-door thresholds (transition into the kitchen, with tile floors, for example).
If I start from the (south) corner and go north, I will end up with tiny strips butting up to the rest of the floor.
I'm assuming I go East to West into the treshold, then make the cuts for the threshold, then finish, but I figured I would ask somebody who knows more than me.
Anytime you do a floor with wood planks or laminate planks or tile, you look at the size of your planks and figure out whether or not you will end up with a sliver (or taper) anywhere if you start out with a full row. If starting with a full row makes a sliver somewhere, you simply cut some material off the first row, to shift things over and increase the size of that last piece.
You figure this out with simple math. If your pieces are 8" wide... then a 120" wide room would have exactly 15 rows. So let's say your room is 121"... if you don't want that last row to be 1", just start out with a 4 1/2" wide rip... then after 14 full rows, your last row will also be 4 1/2"... or thereabouts.
At your transition to the tile, you will either be using a reducer or a t-moulding that matches your laminate. These pieces have a u shaped steel channel that gets nailed to the floor, then you space your laminate away from it about 1/4"... then when you are done you snap the cap on using a rubber mallet or block of wood to soften the blow.
Please see photos for the cracks. Is this an indication of foundation problems? I walked the house outside and there is no cracks or damage to slab around the house parameters. Neither is there any damage to external brick. It's a two story house. Thanks
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I've done a fair share of refinishing hardwoods, but they have all been straight boards. I've always heard not to go against grain using a drum sander, so I am wondering the best sander for the pictured floors?
They have a single layer of finish on them, only seems to be poly and not stained. I had been hoping to get by with a screen and recoat, but there are scratches. Also there are areas where finish peeled/blistered so underlying wood is "dirty".
Can I remove finish with only a square buff machine, using 2-3 stages of grit(can get as low as 24g)? Or would a random orbital be better?
Thanks!
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