I am installing about 1000 sq ft of flooring on the main floor of my house. I have a few general install questions, it's been a long time since I've done hardwood flooring. (15 years and it wasn't a big project).
Most of the end of the flooring will go underneath baseboard... not much of a problem. There is a metal transition on one end where it meets a tile floor. (see picture)
There is a part (see picture with two yellow arrows) where it will start in a stair nose piece, and end butted up against a tile transition. I was trying to keep the sleek look by using the tile transition pictured (see blue arrow). After install I realized this may make the hardwood flooring a bit trickier because I won't be able to "hide" the end under anything.
This must be a fairly common setup, but I can't find any good info on it. Currently my hardwood that is coming out has a perpendicular piece running at the transition with the blue arrow. What is this called? Also, I have to cut the pieces on this end, so they won't have a grove (right?) ... so in this setup, those pieces aren't inserted in to the perpendicular piece?
Also, I am going to switch one room to carpet. Do I use a perpendicular piece to end the hardwood? Can I transition straight from that piece to carpet? I like that look as opposed to using a transition piece.
Many years ago laminate flooring was put in our house then polyurethane was put on top. Over the years a walker used and destroyed parts of the floor coating and now large bibles are seen and cracking in to crumbs. Is there any way to fix it without putting new floors down
I have engineered floor boards to replace my entire second floor rugs. I have done two rooms. Now I am starting on the hallway at the top of the stairs. I have removed the handrails and spindles to refinish them to match the floor board finish. The engineered floor boards are 11/16" thick which matches the bathroom ceramic tile thickness. The nosing at the top of the stairs is only 1/2" leaving a 3/16" difference. See Photo showing the nosing at the front, a piece of engineered flooring next to it, the subfloor plywood behind that and the rug/under pad cut about a foot behind that.
Initially I was planning to remove, refinish and put back the nosing raised by 3/16", to match the new flooring, but ran into a problem. The nosing piece runs about 22 feet in length, is curved, solid oak, about 1" thick and I expect fairly pricey to replace. It is glued to the framing lumber and subfloor and also attached with numerous finishing nails. Glue was allowed to run onto the subfloor on the rug side of the nosing piece which is going to make it difficult to properly fit the engineered floor boards to it, but I can deal with that by cutting the underside corners of the floor boards.
My problem is - how do I do this so that the nosing board is level with the floor boards? iI there some way of dissolving the glue without destroying the nosing piece? If it were just the finishing nails holding it in place, I think I could pry it up, but the glue complicates things.
Alternatively, would I be able to have a nosing cap custom made that would be 3/16" thick, curved to match the nosing now in place, 3.5" wide, and a facing edge to fully cover the current nosing piece?
Or, is there some solution I haven't even thought of yet?
[i]Natural finish is current nosing, brown board is engineered floor board, plywood is the light colored material, blue is under pad and grey is rug.[/i]
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08-15-21, 08:36 AM
