We had a downstairs bathroom floor fitted 9 months ago that is not looking good. It is cared for in exactly the same way as all of the other floor of the same type in the whole house. The rest of the house looks great but the bathroom does not. There are white discolored areas forming between some of the boards.
Floor is Paradigm long board supposed to be 100% waterproof and has a lifetime warranty in residential areas.
Hard telling, could be detergent residue from cleaning. Looks like when it's cleaned, liquid can get into the cracks then when it dries, leaves a scale. Try cleaning it off with some goof off or paint thinner on a rag. Use a toothbrush if you have to... preferably not your own.
Vinyl is sensitive to anything with chlorine or bleach, so you might look at what cleaners are being used on it.
I wouldn't think so, effluorescence is the evaporation of water with salts that remain, if it is a concrete floor the evaporation would likely take place below the flooring, not on top.
I think the cleaning, or even water spillage, on the floor and evaporating leaving calcium deposits are most likely!
Try a mild solution of vinegar and water with a tooth brush on a small area, let it dry and see if that removes the white haze.
Thanks for the responses.
I tried the mild detergent and vinegar and it removed a little but not all of it.
It's on a concrete floor, as is the rest of the downstairs. It's all cleaned in exactly the same way but this one floor which we had fitted last year is the only one with issues.
The floor company that laid it say its coming from a leak under the flooring.
But he might mean its effluorescence. It does indeed look like salt crystals. I will try cleaning again.
I have old vinyl, very old, and glued to the original subfloor in the kitchen but not the bedroom. I'd like to run hardwood across both flooring but their is ~1/8" height different. How should I go about this? Removing the old vinyl may not really be possible, but is their an underlayment I could put down in the bedroom that would even out the subfloor or should I just slap 3/4" over everything?
[url=https://imgur.com/a/6BznWpq]https://imgur.com/a/6BznWpq[/url]
Thank you!
I’m looking for a discussion on hardwood flooring.
My house was built in 1966 with hardwood oak floors. Recently there was water damage in about a 9 X 9 foot area causing warped edges on the edges of the wood. The room size is about 30 X 20 ft. The thickness of the existing floor planks appears to be 5/8 in and the width is 2 ¼ in.
The insurance company offers two options. They are, replace the total floor with new wood or replace only the damaged area with new wood.
Most of the retail stores seem to offer engineered wood. So, these are my questions.
1. Would you agree my 1966 floors are probably not engineered wood?
2. For over-all reasons, which type of flooring is better, engineered or my 1966 wood?
3. I looked at Lowes and did not fine oak flooring 5/8” X 2 ¼.” It appears hardware dimensions do not include length. Why is that?
4. If only the damaged area were repaired with new wood, how difficult is it to match the surrounding area? The adjoining rooms have the same wood floors.
Replacing the complete floor is a bit daunting for me to consider, unless absolutely necessary
However, any feedback on this would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Jerry
02-24-22, 12:23 PM
