I need to install transition between tile and laminator floor. The seller told me that many DIY people now use glue instead screw to install. (1) Can I directly to glue T board with concrete and throw C cannel away (best for me) or I have to press T board into metal C channel at first then glue it with concrete by pressing? (2) How to maintain certain laminate floor expansion allowance when glue (because the glue may spread and can't see to control when press)? (3) How to prevent glue to laminate floor in accident, when I press T board/C to the concrete?
Marq1 is absolutely right!! Don't glue it, screw it down like you're supposed to. Drill holes in cement where needed and use tapcons as he suggested or plastic plugs and screw the "C" channel down into the plugs. Either way, be careful when putting in the "T" moulding. Once you've got the "T" moulding set into the "C" channel it usually isn't very easy to get it out and try to reposition it. I've seen the vertical part of the "T" get completely ripped off the horizontal part of the "T" when trying to get the "T" moulding out of the channel. To put it simply, get it right the first time!!
We have a 5'x10' wood "Landing Zone" in our garage. Basically a deck that allows you to leave shoes and stuff before entering the house. It has 3 steps that lead up to it. It is constructed just like a deck, yet the flooring is just 1/2" plywood. We are going to cover it with some 8mm waterproof laminate. The steps and railing will just be painted with the steps also getting rubber treads. My question is how to deal with the edges of the flooring at the edge of the deck. There are two exposed edges. I am thinking of just installing stair nosing all around, but not sure. The flooring is inexpensive (lowes), sadly, I did not see any dedicated stair nosing that matched. All they sell are the "4 in1" trim kits that are about 78" long and cost as much as a carton of flooring. Read More
Hi,
I have a small hardwood flooring install on the horizon, but I'm struggling to plan the install.
My original plan was to start along the bottom rail (in red). The hardwood is prefinished with a beveled edge, so I don't want to have to rip any boards to fit against this as there won't be any trim here to hide the cut edge and I'm worried about the appearance. I would have to place the groove edge against this and work away from the bottom rail. That idea seems well enough right up until I start thinking about fitting the bullnose piece (in blue).
[img]https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/1198x987/2022_11_07_16_37_44_microsoft_jigsaw_122a2a034649db810f926e674717d2dc101d25ce.png[/img]
The bullnose piece is cut to accept the tongue side of the flooring as shown in the example below. If I go with the plan above, I would be mating it with the groove side instead...is that ok? I'll probably have to rip the bullnose piece to the correct width anyways.
[img]https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/465x368/2022_11_07_16_47_41_hardwood_bullnose_edge_at_duckduckgo_brave_c0f4cc2bb791093281fd1f59f22017b24305c2de.png[/img]
If there are better ways to go about this, I'm all ears!
Thanks for reading and let me know if I failed to explain, I can elaborate where needed.
Edit: One more question...first time installing bullnose like this. Do you glue it, or counter sink nails and just wood fill to hide?Read More