Can This Flooring Be Made Flat?
#1

Hello,
I am working on the floor shown in the photo below. As you can see, it is a layer of vinyl which is on top of a second layer of black tile which in turn is on top of concrete. I want to install a plywood subfloor over it consisting of 3/4" plywood attached to the concrete with a Remington powder nailer. The vinyl will be left in place as is. A 3/4" white oak strip floor from Harris-Tarkett will be installed on the subfloor. How do I check for flatness in this floor, and if it is not quite flat, how do I make it flat?
Here is a detail view of the vinyl flooring: as mentioned above, it is a layer of vinyl on top of a second layer of black tile which in turn is on top of concrete. The concrete is the grey mass in the middle of the black area of the photo.
Thanks for any advice you can offer!
I am working on the floor shown in the photo below. As you can see, it is a layer of vinyl which is on top of a second layer of black tile which in turn is on top of concrete. I want to install a plywood subfloor over it consisting of 3/4" plywood attached to the concrete with a Remington powder nailer. The vinyl will be left in place as is. A 3/4" white oak strip floor from Harris-Tarkett will be installed on the subfloor. How do I check for flatness in this floor, and if it is not quite flat, how do I make it flat?
Here is a detail view of the vinyl flooring: as mentioned above, it is a layer of vinyl on top of a second layer of black tile which in turn is on top of concrete. The concrete is the grey mass in the middle of the black area of the photo.
Thanks for any advice you can offer!
#3
Bazooka:
Flatten out sounds more like the key here. I recall another thread that Bob started and he mentioned a large high area? I haven't seen any mention of that since. Pics definately help.
3/4" plywood attached to concrete can "take out" alot of minor dips and waves due the rigidness of the material itself. Level is a term that is rarely used in the floor covering industry, unless you're in the stone and marble business. I reference to pic # 2, I'm sure Bob will toss that cheap looking clam shell baseboard in the dumper, and install newer baseboard to compliment his new floor?
Flatten out sounds more like the key here. I recall another thread that Bob started and he mentioned a large high area? I haven't seen any mention of that since. Pics definately help.
3/4" plywood attached to concrete can "take out" alot of minor dips and waves due the rigidness of the material itself. Level is a term that is rarely used in the floor covering industry, unless you're in the stone and marble business. I reference to pic # 2, I'm sure Bob will toss that cheap looking clam shell baseboard in the dumper, and install newer baseboard to compliment his new floor?
#4

Bazooka and Ken:
Thanks a lot for your replies, this makes me feel a lot better. I think I am finally ready to get a 2X4 in each of the rooms. I lay it down on the floor and check for flatness -- for high and low spots. Isn't that how it is done?
Ken, all clamshell baseboard has been removed and thrown out. It will be replaced. I'm learning a lot about plaster walls and flooring.
You will see more pictures here as I progress with the flooring project. Currently, we are waiting for an electrician to start a big electrical update and a plasterer to repair one wall.
Thanks!
Thanks a lot for your replies, this makes me feel a lot better. I think I am finally ready to get a 2X4 in each of the rooms. I lay it down on the floor and check for flatness -- for high and low spots. Isn't that how it is done?
Ken, all clamshell baseboard has been removed and thrown out. It will be replaced. I'm learning a lot about plaster walls and flooring.
You will see more pictures here as I progress with the flooring project. Currently, we are waiting for an electrician to start a big electrical update and a plasterer to repair one wall.
Thanks!
#5
Bob:
You can use a straight 2X4, but I prefer the stringline method as I believe I had mentioned that prior? Yes, send more pics. Any chance you can improve on the quality? Pic #1 almost looks like a prefab concrete subfloor. Yikes!!
Keep us updated.
You can use a straight 2X4, but I prefer the stringline method as I believe I had mentioned that prior? Yes, send more pics. Any chance you can improve on the quality? Pic #1 almost looks like a prefab concrete subfloor. Yikes!!
Keep us updated.
#7

Ken and AzFred:
Thanks a lot for your input. I'll do the string line tomorrow night or Saturday and get back to you. Will hopefully have more pictures. The photos you see were taken in low light conditions at night.
I do have one question. I want to buy an pneumatic nail gun that will blind-nail the Harris-Tarkett solid oak prefinished strip flooring. What make and model of nail gun currently available will do the job? Also since the flooring is prefinished, do I still need to face nail it? I mean, won't that mar the finish?
Thanks a lot!
Thanks a lot for your input. I'll do the string line tomorrow night or Saturday and get back to you. Will hopefully have more pictures. The photos you see were taken in low light conditions at night.
I do have one question. I want to buy an pneumatic nail gun that will blind-nail the Harris-Tarkett solid oak prefinished strip flooring. What make and model of nail gun currently available will do the job? Also since the flooring is prefinished, do I still need to face nail it? I mean, won't that mar the finish?
Thanks a lot!