Pool table rail adjustments

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  #1  
Old 11-05-06, 05:28 AM
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Pool table rail adjustments

Does anyone know if there is a rule of thumb adjustment for pool table rails? I have a very nice Brunswick but on one side rail from the side pocket to the corner pocker it has developed a distinct "thunk" when a ball plays against it .

I have tightened it down from underneath (3 bolts) but hesitate to go too far. Any thoughts would be helpful.
 
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Old 11-07-06, 09:24 AM
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Uh....anyone?
 
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Old 11-10-06, 03:53 PM
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Originally Posted by trs4594
Does anyone know if there is a rule of thumb adjustment for pool table rails? I have a very nice Brunswick but on one side rail from the side pocket to the corner pocker it has developed a distinct "thunk" when a ball plays against it .

I have tightened it down from underneath (3 bolts) but hesitate to go too far. Any thoughts would be helpful.
Hi trs4594,

What it sounds like to me is you also have a developing problem with that rail. It will soon be a dead spot, and not rebound properly. I say this because it sounds like the rubber part of the rail has started to come loose from the support part, and tightening it too much can warp the rail. Do you have a book on recovering it? If not, you may want to get one. There is a section on rail repair, and how to reglue them. It also tells adjustments, and hights from the bed of the table, the point of the rail should be. (You might find that right now, the rail is pulled too close to the slate).

I hope this helps. Drop back and let us know how it turns out.

cuedude
 
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Old 11-12-06, 03:34 PM
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The table was in storage for a few months while remodeling was being done in my house. It was removed and reinstalled by professionals from a reputable billiards business. I just wondered if they didn't get the rail quite tight enough.

It is already a dead spot from the corner to the side pocket and the rebound is slower than anywhere else on the table. I didn't know about the rubber being glued to the rail. I'll pop into the library next change I get and see what I can find.

Thx, I'll let you know.
 
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Old 11-16-06, 04:03 AM
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Originally Posted by trs4594
The table was in storage for a few months while remodeling was being done in my house. It was removed and reinstalled by professionals from a reputable billiards business. I just wondered if they didn't get the rail quite tight enough.

It is already a dead spot from the corner to the side pocket and the rebound is slower than anywhere else on the table. I didn't know about the rubber being glued to the rail. I'll pop into the library next change I get and see what I can find.

Thx, I'll let you know.
Hi again,

I'm no expert, but I have recovered a few tables over the years. If the whole rail is dead, it for sure needs to be repaired. When you look at the book, and if you feel it's just too dificult, take the rail to the pros that moved it. Tell them what's going on, and they can take it from there. Rails can be harder to get right than the slate bed itself.

Glad to have been of some help with this. After all, with a handle like cuedude, ya just gotta figure I've played a little anyway. Tournements are my favorite way to compete. I've never been one to gamble at pool. There is always someone out there that will give you a lesson you may not want to learn.

cuedude
 
  #6  
Old 03-04-07, 05:20 AM
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Follow up

Just for the record and if anyone else needs the info;

I talked to a billiards business and they explained how to take the rail apart and bring it in to them. After I unbolted the rails from underneath I found screws that go up through the end of each rail and tighten into pins that are built into each pocket. Each pocket has 2 pins. This releases the pockets from the rails.

Rails have custom cut rubber glued to the wood and then covered by the cloth. Along the wood portion of the top part of the rail is a wooden channel. The cloth lays over the channel and then a long strip of wood keys down into the channel, after which the rest of the cloth laps over the channel, over and under the rubber and staples to the wood of the rail underneath. Pretty slick.

Putting the rails back on is simply reverse steps. Bolting the rails back down only requires snugging, not overtightening. This is very doable for anyone.

Hope this helps someone else.
 
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