HELP! Termites!
#1
07-17-04, 07:16 AM
HELP! Termites!
I have wood floors throughout my home and I noticed last night a couple of spots in my bedroom where the planks appear to be rotting away. I assume it's termites. I guess I will have to call an exterminator Monday, but I'd like to know if there's anything I should know so I don't get scammed. Any advice on how to find a good exterminator? How do they check for termites? How do they treat for termites? Will they treat the entire house? I have a basement, main floor, and the attic is one long room (my daughters bedroom). And what about outside? I have a privacy fence all around my approximate 1/2 acre. Will this cost me thousands of dollars? Hundreds? I'm just beside myself over this. After I take care of this problem, should I have the house treated every so many years? How often? Is this something I can do myself, or one of those cases where it is best left to the professionals?
I've done some research on the web and found Home Choice Detector and Baiting System from ePest.com. They also mention spot treating before installing the system. They talk about Premise 2 Termiticide and Bora Care. My question now is do I have to do BOTH the Premise and the Bora Care. It says to use the Premise you form a small ditch around the house and pour in the Premise 2. For the Bora Care you have to drill holes in the foundation and then pour in the Bora Care. Can I just use the Premise, or do I also have to use the Bora Care? It was just unclear as to whether you use one or the other or both.
I've done some research on the web and found Home Choice Detector and Baiting System from ePest.com. They also mention spot treating before installing the system. They talk about Premise 2 Termiticide and Bora Care. My question now is do I have to do BOTH the Premise and the Bora Care. It says to use the Premise you form a small ditch around the house and pour in the Premise 2. For the Bora Care you have to drill holes in the foundation and then pour in the Bora Care. Can I just use the Premise, or do I also have to use the Bora Care? It was just unclear as to whether you use one or the other or both.
Last edited by noguru; 07-17-04 at 01:00 PM. Reason: update
#2
07-20-04, 09:25 AM
Member
Termites
Prevention and treatment for termites tends not to be a DIY project. A licensed professional exterminator is recommended because they have access to chemicals and equipment not available to homeowners. They will make a thorough inspection of your home for infestation and assess damage. Get at least three estimates before signing a contract for control measures. Be cautious of quotes that are substantially lower or higher than the others. You will probably find that prices for inspection, treatment estimates, and conditions of warranties will vary. Warranties are no better than the company that stands behind them. Make sure the company is licensed and certified and has an established business. Friends and family are also a good source for recommendations.
Typically soil is treated by placing a chemical barrier in the soil along both sides of the foundation. Termiticides are toxic to termites when they contact them. Some chemicals also act as repellents. The barrier must be continuous because any gap will allow termites to pass through. Treatment during construction allows a better opportunity for coverage. For existing homes, chemicals are injected through drilled holes and trenches along the foundation. Thus, it takes an experienced professional with special equipment and many gallons of termiticide. The quantity will depend upon the size of the home.
Not all chemicals are available in all areas. The exterminator will use chemicals allowed in your area. Most exterminators will not attempt "spot treatments" for homes that already have termites. If they do, they tend to offer no warranty. This is because termites are likely to find another untreated area in the home. Spot treatments are usually used if retreatment is required.
There are non-repellent termiticides available. Termites travel through a treated zone and hopefully will carry the poison back to the nest where it is suppose to affect nestmates. This is a slower process because it will require enough termites to carry the bait back to the nest to be effective. This method also requires a licensed professional.
Now there are termite baits available. These usually contain a mixture of cellulose and chemicals that hopefully get carried back to the colony and get shared during grooming and other activities and reduce or eliminate the colony. This is a slow process. Too, termites avoid sites where there are sick or dead termites. Baits are placed in stations and have to be monitored to see if termites have been feeding. Bait stations must be monitored at least once a month. To eliminate termites is a slow process with this method. It may take months before a termite happens upon a bait station. Then, it must eat enough of the bait and carry it back to the colony. Environmentalists prefer bait because it does not contaminate the soil. Also, the stations can be used where it's not possible to treat the soil.
Homeowners often see the winged termites swarming and that's when they realize they have termites. The inspector will look for the mud tubes that termites create to tunnel from the soil to wood. Wood damage is not always obvious because termites are inside boards. Although sometimes the honeycomb pattern where termites have fed can be seen. Tunnels in wood are packed with mud and feces. The inspector will take a knife or screwdriver to probe wood. He will peck on wood to see if it has a hollow sound.
Once infestation sites are located, the exterminator will have to treat the entire house. He will use chemicals that are not over-the-counter and not available to homeowners. He has the proper equipment and experience to properly treat your home. It is recommended that you maintain the contract for an annual inspection of your home and spot treatments if required. It is worth it to protect the investment in your home.
Outbuildings, fences, and tree stumps in your landscape can be DIY projects. Simply follow the DIY instructions very carefully.
Typically soil is treated by placing a chemical barrier in the soil along both sides of the foundation. Termiticides are toxic to termites when they contact them. Some chemicals also act as repellents. The barrier must be continuous because any gap will allow termites to pass through. Treatment during construction allows a better opportunity for coverage. For existing homes, chemicals are injected through drilled holes and trenches along the foundation. Thus, it takes an experienced professional with special equipment and many gallons of termiticide. The quantity will depend upon the size of the home.
Not all chemicals are available in all areas. The exterminator will use chemicals allowed in your area. Most exterminators will not attempt "spot treatments" for homes that already have termites. If they do, they tend to offer no warranty. This is because termites are likely to find another untreated area in the home. Spot treatments are usually used if retreatment is required.
There are non-repellent termiticides available. Termites travel through a treated zone and hopefully will carry the poison back to the nest where it is suppose to affect nestmates. This is a slower process because it will require enough termites to carry the bait back to the nest to be effective. This method also requires a licensed professional.
Now there are termite baits available. These usually contain a mixture of cellulose and chemicals that hopefully get carried back to the colony and get shared during grooming and other activities and reduce or eliminate the colony. This is a slow process. Too, termites avoid sites where there are sick or dead termites. Baits are placed in stations and have to be monitored to see if termites have been feeding. Bait stations must be monitored at least once a month. To eliminate termites is a slow process with this method. It may take months before a termite happens upon a bait station. Then, it must eat enough of the bait and carry it back to the colony. Environmentalists prefer bait because it does not contaminate the soil. Also, the stations can be used where it's not possible to treat the soil.
Homeowners often see the winged termites swarming and that's when they realize they have termites. The inspector will look for the mud tubes that termites create to tunnel from the soil to wood. Wood damage is not always obvious because termites are inside boards. Although sometimes the honeycomb pattern where termites have fed can be seen. Tunnels in wood are packed with mud and feces. The inspector will take a knife or screwdriver to probe wood. He will peck on wood to see if it has a hollow sound.
Once infestation sites are located, the exterminator will have to treat the entire house. He will use chemicals that are not over-the-counter and not available to homeowners. He has the proper equipment and experience to properly treat your home. It is recommended that you maintain the contract for an annual inspection of your home and spot treatments if required. It is worth it to protect the investment in your home.
Outbuildings, fences, and tree stumps in your landscape can be DIY projects. Simply follow the DIY instructions very carefully.
#3
07-20-04, 12:45 PM
Member
Termites
Although there are many DIY termite products available today, there are two major reasons for not doing it yourself. If you go to sell your home the bank will not accept self-treatment and then you have to pay for a professional treatment before you can sell. DIY treatments come with no guarantee. Most exterminating companies offer some type of warranty that usually continually renewable and transferable to new owners.
A knowledge of building construction is needed to identify areas where termites are likely to enter the home. Many of these areas are hidden and difficult to access. An exterminator already has masonry drills, pumps, large-capacity tanks, and soil treatment rods to apply termiticide to soil along foundation, beneath concrete slabs, and inside foundation walls.
Bora-Care can be applied directly to wood and will kill both subterranean and drywood Termites. It can also, like Premise, be used to treat perimeter soil to create an insecticidal barrier. Bora-Care costs about $100/gallon and will mix to make two gallons for spraying or brushing on wood. The thickness and nature of wood will determine how much will be needed. The chemical must penetrate the wood to kill existing termites. Two to three coats is required on infested wood. It is harmful in inhaled. It requires avoiding breathing vapors or spray mist. Also avoid contact with skin, eyes or clothing. Avoid getting on trees, shrubs, and plants.
To use Bora-Care to treat soil, you will need a hammer drill, which can be rented. You can rent hammer drills from any tool rental center. A GFI interrupter box is recommended just in case you come in contact with something metal. The GFI will shut off the electricity to the drill and save the drill and bit, plumbing lines, or whatever it contacts. You will need a long funnel about 2 feet long to insert into holes 1/2" or larger to get termiticide below porches, patios, garages, and slab foundations. The average rate of application in holes drilled is about 1 gallon of termiticide per hole (holes drilled every 12"). Mix any termiticide in a 2-5 gallon bucket and pour it through the funnel. This technique is useful for treating concrete areas where the soil is tightly compacted against the bottom of the slab and the termiticide has to "drip" down into the soil. Bora-Care offers no guarantee that the product offers complete prevention of termites.
Premise, often used by professionals for spot treatment, requires that you trench down to bottom of concrete slab for treatment along concrete slab edge. You must trench and treat along walls and piers in crawl space areas. You must trench and treat along exterior walls. Pics are used to dig trenches. A pic has a sharp point on one end and a flat spade on the other. The flat spade side is used to dig a trench by dragging it along your foundation wall to make a shallow trench 3-6 inches deep. The dirt from the trench is simply laid back next to the trench for later replacement after chemical treatment. The normal rate of application in a trench is around 4 gallons of termiticide per 10 linear feet or about 1/2 gallon per foot. A 5 gallon bucket is used to mix the termiticide so that it can be applied 4-5 gallons at a time into the trench and/or drill holes. A container of Premise to mix 30 gallons costs about $70.
All liquid termiticides are supposed to control termites for at least five years when applied according to label directions. The actual length of control on a given structure will depend on such factors as thoroughness of the application, environmental conditions, and density of termites in the area. If termites swarm again and continue to be a problem the year after treatment, it's usually not from degradation of the termiticide — but because termites have found an untreated gap in the chemical barrier.
It is best to hire a reputable pest control firm with licensed and experienced technicians. Companies will return and retreat affected area(s) at no additional charge provided the service agreement is purchased and maintained.
A knowledge of building construction is needed to identify areas where termites are likely to enter the home. Many of these areas are hidden and difficult to access. An exterminator already has masonry drills, pumps, large-capacity tanks, and soil treatment rods to apply termiticide to soil along foundation, beneath concrete slabs, and inside foundation walls.
Bora-Care can be applied directly to wood and will kill both subterranean and drywood Termites. It can also, like Premise, be used to treat perimeter soil to create an insecticidal barrier. Bora-Care costs about $100/gallon and will mix to make two gallons for spraying or brushing on wood. The thickness and nature of wood will determine how much will be needed. The chemical must penetrate the wood to kill existing termites. Two to three coats is required on infested wood. It is harmful in inhaled. It requires avoiding breathing vapors or spray mist. Also avoid contact with skin, eyes or clothing. Avoid getting on trees, shrubs, and plants.
To use Bora-Care to treat soil, you will need a hammer drill, which can be rented. You can rent hammer drills from any tool rental center. A GFI interrupter box is recommended just in case you come in contact with something metal. The GFI will shut off the electricity to the drill and save the drill and bit, plumbing lines, or whatever it contacts. You will need a long funnel about 2 feet long to insert into holes 1/2" or larger to get termiticide below porches, patios, garages, and slab foundations. The average rate of application in holes drilled is about 1 gallon of termiticide per hole (holes drilled every 12"). Mix any termiticide in a 2-5 gallon bucket and pour it through the funnel. This technique is useful for treating concrete areas where the soil is tightly compacted against the bottom of the slab and the termiticide has to "drip" down into the soil. Bora-Care offers no guarantee that the product offers complete prevention of termites.
Premise, often used by professionals for spot treatment, requires that you trench down to bottom of concrete slab for treatment along concrete slab edge. You must trench and treat along walls and piers in crawl space areas. You must trench and treat along exterior walls. Pics are used to dig trenches. A pic has a sharp point on one end and a flat spade on the other. The flat spade side is used to dig a trench by dragging it along your foundation wall to make a shallow trench 3-6 inches deep. The dirt from the trench is simply laid back next to the trench for later replacement after chemical treatment. The normal rate of application in a trench is around 4 gallons of termiticide per 10 linear feet or about 1/2 gallon per foot. A 5 gallon bucket is used to mix the termiticide so that it can be applied 4-5 gallons at a time into the trench and/or drill holes. A container of Premise to mix 30 gallons costs about $70.
All liquid termiticides are supposed to control termites for at least five years when applied according to label directions. The actual length of control on a given structure will depend on such factors as thoroughness of the application, environmental conditions, and density of termites in the area. If termites swarm again and continue to be a problem the year after treatment, it's usually not from degradation of the termiticide — but because termites have found an untreated gap in the chemical barrier.
It is best to hire a reputable pest control firm with licensed and experienced technicians. Companies will return and retreat affected area(s) at no additional charge provided the service agreement is purchased and maintained.
#4
02-14-05, 10:36 AM
Twelvepole, sorry to bring back an old post. I apreciate the great amount of info you have posted and I have learned alot from your posts. But I just wanted to point out that I do not think this is accurate, since it could be dangerous to someone:
"A GFI interrupter box is recommended just in case you come in contact with something metal. The GFI will shut off the electricity to the drill and save the drill and bit, plumbing lines, or whatever it contacts. "
In my opinion, A GFCI will not trip no matter what the drill bit hits, unless the power to the drill somehow shorts to ground. Since electrical current does not travel through the drill bit, it would not trip the GFCI Device.
Is there a special circuit interrupter device you are using that does this?
"A GFI interrupter box is recommended just in case you come in contact with something metal. The GFI will shut off the electricity to the drill and save the drill and bit, plumbing lines, or whatever it contacts. "
In my opinion, A GFCI will not trip no matter what the drill bit hits, unless the power to the drill somehow shorts to ground. Since electrical current does not travel through the drill bit, it would not trip the GFCI Device.
Is there a special circuit interrupter device you are using that does this?
#5
02-15-05, 12:28 PM
It is called a "stop in time" and yes it will shut a drill off if it hits any type of pipes or conduit. I run them on my drills and they tick me off a lot of the time because they are so sensitive. They will even kick mine off over hitting a simple nail or reinforcing rod. They cost about $250.00 and are worth every penny when you are drilling blind and are taking a chance of hitting a waterline or an electrical line.
