Proper Trane thermostat


  #41  
Old 10-29-09, 12:10 PM
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Trane XE 1200 weathertron heat pump

Hi All

I tried to call Trane for assistance but they told me that they could not help me.
I have a XE 1200 weathertron heat pump with a baystat240 thermostat. I purchased the Trane XL 803 themostat.
I looked the schematic on papers installed and can't figure the wiring.
Baystat 240 wiring with aux heat and emergency heat

Red to RED
Tan brown not used
Green to Green
Yellow to Yellow
Black to X2
Blue to Blue
White to White
Orange to Orange

Any help would be appreciated

AL
 
  #42  
Old 10-29-09, 08:11 PM
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Not sure what letters the color are tied to, so make notes of what letter the color going on, then match that with the new t-stat.

Old----New
R------R/Rc
O------O
G------G
Y-------Y
X2-----X2
B-------B
W------W1
 
  #43  
Old 10-30-09, 01:21 PM
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Hi J11J
The wires are as follows

Red Transformer former Hot
Orange Heat pump change over
Green Fan Out
Yellow Stage 1 cool
Black Emergency Heat
Blue Transformer common
White Stage 2 heat

Thanks Al
 
  #44  
Old 10-30-09, 04:09 PM
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Old---color----New

R---Red-------R/Rc
O---Orange---O
G---Green-----G
Y----Yellow-----Y
X2--Black-----X2
B---Blue-------B
W---White---W1
 
  #45  
Old 10-30-09, 07:41 PM
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Hi J11J
Thanks for the wiring information. The wires checkout with the handler. All I have to do is program the installer setup.

Thanks AL
 
  #46  
Old 10-30-09, 08:03 PM
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Here is the set up I suggest.

120 to 160, You can figure out.

170-7
190-1
200-0
220-2
250-3
270-3
280-1 if you want night light.
300- up to you.
340 to 360- Did you get outdoor sensor?

Ask if you have questions on rest of the settings.
 
  #47  
Old 10-31-09, 04:03 PM
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Programming

Hi J11J

Thanks for the programming information. The system is working great.

Thanks Again AL
 
  #48  
Old 10-31-09, 08:19 PM
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Glad to help Al.

Did you get the outdoor sensor?
 
  #49  
Old 11-01-09, 06:06 PM
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Outdoor sensor

Hi Jay11J

No I did not get the outdoor temp sensor. I think I still might buy the outdoor sensor. Should be fairly easy to install.

Thanks AL
 
  #50  
Old 11-01-09, 06:10 PM
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I know your winters are very mild, so your back up heat may never been used that much.

But it's nice to have to Lock out the back up heat on your mild temps.
 
  #51  
Old 11-11-09, 05:13 PM
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Temp sensor extension wire

Hi jay11j

I ordered the temp sensor. I think it calls for 18-2 wire but not sure if I need shielded or not. I looked at the internet, and all I was able to find was 500' rolls. Any suggestions or should I drop by trane and see if they will sell me 100'.

Thanks AL
 
  #52  
Old 11-11-09, 08:14 PM
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How far of a run do you need???

Home Depot carries 18-2 thermostat wires.
 
  #53  
Old 11-12-09, 06:32 AM
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Thermostat wire

Hi jay11J

I will probably need 75 to 100 feet. I'll try to go by Home Depot today.

Thanks Al
 
  #54  
Old 11-12-09, 06:57 AM
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Ok, I checked and you are good with the 18-2 up to 200' of wire.

When you run the wire, make sure you don't run along line voltage wire.
 
  #55  
Old 11-12-09, 03:31 PM
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Thermostat wire

Jay11J

Thanks for the information on the wire. Picked up a 100 foot roll of thermostat 18/2 wire at Home Depot.
Weather is cool so it will be a lot cooler in the attic.

Thanks Al
 
  #56  
Old 11-21-09, 07:01 PM
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Temp sensor program

Hi Jay11J
I installed the outside temp sensor and set the program to just read at this time. What do u you think would be the best settings for my XL1200 weathertron heat pump.

Thanks AL
 
  #57  
Old 11-22-09, 04:54 AM
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Ok, Great.. Must of had a cool day to get this done!

340-2
350-30
360-40
380-1
 
  #58  
Old 11-22-09, 07:50 PM
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Program for thermostat sensor

Jay11j

Thanks for the program information. The thermostat is all programmed.
It's nice when it gets a little cooler if you have to crawl around the attick. Thanks again for the program information.

AL
 
  #59  
Old 01-07-10, 09:55 AM
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Hello there!

First wishing you and your family a happy New Year! I will buy two IAQ, where do you suggest I buy from for best price and what is the exact model? Also, with the humidity issue I did notice a draft comming from the master bedroom pocket door frame. Got up there in the attic and cant see anything wrong!!??, but draft for sure!! This may expain why the my master is 5-8 degrees more humid that social area, plus its 3 degrees cooler in bathroom vs master.
 
  #60  
Old 01-07-10, 10:24 AM
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There are many site you can find it on.. I'd would go to a site that just sells these things over E-bay.. E-bay you won't get the warranty on it.

Draft can find odd spots to get into the house.. What's under the bedroom?
 
  #61  
Old 01-07-10, 10:32 AM
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Hello
Draft a problem. Here in Miami no basements only attic??? Any suggestions? Also the exact model is Honeywell IAQ? THANK YOU!
 
  #62  
Old 01-07-10, 10:38 AM
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??? Found Honeywell True IAQ DG115EZIAQ Humidifier Control for $44, HONEYWELL VISION PRO IAQ YTH9421C1002 VISION PRO for $61??? Which one???

THANK YOU FOR ALL YOUR HELP!
 
  #63  
Old 01-07-10, 10:56 AM
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Note the second one is not buy now its only a bid
 
  #64  
Old 01-07-10, 11:22 AM
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YTH9421 IAQ is what you want.. TrueIAQ is for humidifier.

Hard to say where the draft is coming from. Best thing maybe have a blower door test done.
 
  #65  
Old 01-07-10, 11:32 AM
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Jay

Do you mean YTH9421C1002 VISION PRO? I noticed more number and pro. Also should I get an outdoor thermo and do you know roughly how much they go for?

Blower test is a great idea!
 
  #66  
Old 01-07-10, 12:57 PM
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yes, that's the model you want.

Outdoor sensor is not needed unless you have a Heat Pump, and/or Humidifier. You can use if you want to see what the temps are outside.
 
  #67  
Old 10-28-10, 07:10 AM
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heat pump shut off temp

Hi, I'm hoping somebody is still alive on this thread and might be able to help us. We've got this thermostat (TCONT803AS32DAA) with a Trane Heat Pump (4TWX5024A1000AA) and 95% efficient furnace (TUH2B080A9V3VAB). The system was installed about 18 months ago, but I don't think the installer set it up correctly because even when it gets really cold, it never switches over to the furnace, it just keeps trying to run on heat pump even when it's below zero. As a result, our heating bills skyrocketed last winter! Seriously, our old 1950's clunker cost less to operate than this "super efficient" system! The furnace works just fine, and if we manually switch it over to "emergency heat" it will operate on furnace... plus the furnace comes on if it's trying to raise the indoor temperature. But the system is certainly NOT running very efficiently!

I contacted Trane, but they say that we have to contact the installer and get them to set the correct temperature to shut off the heat pump, and that they can't advise us because there is some special piece of software that is needed? The installer seems to have NO idea what we're talking about, plus they want to charge us $100 just to come look at it!! I'm sure there's a thermostat setting that will do this, but all we have is a worthless user's manual with no info on advanced settings.

Does anybody have any ideas on a) where we can find a real manual, b) how to alter this setting, c) how to calculate the correct shut-off temperature, and d) what the heck this "software" is that Trane is talking about.

Grateful for any advice...
 
  #68  
Old 10-28-10, 07:45 AM
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Welcome to DIY Catlady! Guessing you are going to dress like one for Halloween? :-)

Anyway, I have a few question for you.

Do you have an outdoor sensor added to your system?

Where are you out of?
 
  #69  
Old 10-28-10, 01:00 PM
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Hi Jay, thanks so much for your response. Yes, there's an outdoor temperature sensor and it displays the outdoor temperature on the thermostat. By "where are you out of?" I assume you mean where are we located? If that's the question, we're in Denver, CO. Thanks!
 
  #70  
Old 10-28-10, 01:26 PM
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Here is the install manual.

I would of gone with a better t-stat with your system. Right now your furnace is some what crippled with that t-stat. Another word, when you are only using the gas furnace your stages are timed, not controlled by the t-stat. Would suggest the Honeywell IAQ t-stat. With that you will get a better comfort out of it.

one last question. Do you plan on using the set back (Lower temp at night/away time)?

Anyway, go to page 11 "Installer set up" and go into the menu.

170-7
180-0
200-1
210-0
220-2
240 to 270-3 (not all will be there)
280-0 (Makes a nice night light)
300- up to you.
340-2
350-20 (when it's below 20˚, HP shuts off, and run gas only)
360-40 (when above 40˚, gas furnace is not used at all)
380-1 (FYI, if the humidity is above set point, the A/C will try to lower the humidity, and may over cool the home up to 3˚ below set point)

Any other settings, let me know if you have questions.


Would you like me to review the dipswitch settings on the furnace to make sure all is set right?
 
  #71  
Old 10-28-10, 01:37 PM
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Wow! Thanks so much for the info! We'll plow through this and let you know how it goes. We currently have it set for 68 during the day and 65 at night. (actually... slightly more complicated than that... it's 65 at night, then up to 67 about an hour before we get up, then up to 68 for most of the day, then up to 69 for a few hours at night because I tend to get colder when there's no sun coming in the windows.) I have absolutely no idea what "dipswitch settings" are... although I have known a few people who might qualify as "dipswitches!" :~)

Thanks again, and I'll give you a more thorough response once we go through all of this!
 
  #72  
Old 10-28-10, 01:57 PM
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With a heat pump system, you are best to "Set it and forget it". Set to the temp you are comfrotable with and leave it be.

so, set 160 to 0.

Otherwise, when you bring up the temp, you may be kicking in the back up heat to help the HP recover. Unless the outside temp is above 40˚, then the HP has to work longer to recover.

Dipswitch are on the control board in your furnace, and some times the dealer don't set them up right, or don't wire up the t-stat wires right to the control.
 
  #73  
Old 10-28-10, 02:05 PM
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OK! Went through and set everything according to your suggestions. Looks like the installer just left everything set to factory defaults which explains why it wasn't running very efficiently!
A few questions though...

1) Setting 220 - compressor cycles per hour. What exactly does this mean... that it only checks the temperature twice an hour?
2) setting 300 - Manual vs. Automatic changeover. What does this mean? Changeover from what to what?
3) setting 350 - 20 degrees HP shut off. We pay a premium price for electricity because it's wind generated. Would it be more economical to set it at 25 because of this? Just wondering how all of that factors in.
4) setting 360 wasn't an option - looks like it only gives you that choice if it's electric backup heat... is that a problem?

I'm sure "CatMan" will have some questions when he gets home and has a chance to look at this, because that's what the CatMan Do! (Sorry for the terrible pun, I couldn't resist.) Anyhow, I'll follow up again at that point.

Thank you SOOO MUCH!
 
  #74  
Old 10-28-10, 02:20 PM
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Originally Posted by CatLady55 View Post
1) Setting 220 - compressor cycles per hour. What exactly does this mean... that it only checks the temperature twice an hour?
No, When the system is at about 50% load, it will cycle on and off 2 times an hour.

2) setting 300 - Manual vs. Automatic changeover. What does this mean? Changeover from what to what?
On your t-stat now you have "Heat", and "Cool" settings, you set it to what you need.. If you program the t-stat to do "AUTO", it will switch between heating and cooling as needed. I didn't do it on mine.

3) setting 350 - 20 degrees HP shut off. We pay a premium price for electricity because it's wind generated. Would it be more economical to set it at 25 because of this? Just wondering how all of that factors in.
You can do that if your rates are higher than gas rates. What is your electric and gas rates?

4) setting 360 wasn't an option - looks like it only gives you that choice if it's electric backup heat... is that a problem?
That's right, I forget that this model of stat won't do that.. No, it's not an issue. I am just used to the Honeywell IAQ t-stat allowing me to do that.

I'm sure "CatMan" will have some questions when he gets home and has a chance to look at this, because that's what the CatMan Do! (Sorry for the terrible pun, I couldn't resist.) Anyhow, I'll follow up again at that point.
No need to be sorry! :-) Feel free to ask if you do have any other questions.
 
  #75  
Old 10-28-10, 04:02 PM
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Okey Dokey! Thanks so much!

First of all, the fe-lions are absolutely thrilled by the prospect of not having the heat turned down at night so they won't have to freeze their furry little rear ends off anymore!

CatMan says it would be absolutely wonderful if you could review the dipswitch settings for us... I fear I may need some explicit instructions though, as he has a bad back and can't get down there to mess around with it.

In terms of how much we pay for electric and gas... this turns out to be a somewhat difficult thing to calculate. But... if we take the portion of the bill that is calculated on usage (excluding the flat charge for service & facility) it looks like it comes out to about $0.125/Kwh for electric and $0.70/therm for gas.

Thanks again for all of your help!
 
  #76  
Old 10-28-10, 07:44 PM
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Yeah, your electric rates are high.

To read the dipswitch, you will need to turn off the power to the furnace.

Remove the blower door. And you'll see a buch of wires. You may have to move some wire off to the side.

You will see sets of dipswitches. In this photo, you will see them above the white group of cables. FYI, you may be in another area since it's a newer furnace.

 
 

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