I have a new Trane XV90 upflow gas furnace with a trane XL14i A/C condenser.
I want to make sure the Trane thermostat I want to buy is the correct stat for my set up.
The Trane part number is TCONT803AS32DAA.
I have done a complete google search and all I can find is TCON803A.
So I guess I am asking what do the last six digits of this part number I have indicate?
Is this the correct stat for my set up?
Thanks

 

You got the right t-stat. I would of gone with 802 vs the 803.

the 803 has dehumid feture, but it over cools to dehumid.

802 don't have the dehumid, but as long the Comfort-R is turned on, and jumpers used. Blower speed dip swith is matching the tonnage, and CFM per ton.

As the other numbers I am sure it's the year, factory info.. ect.. ect..

 

My understanding is that you don't have to use the dehumidify feature on the 803, you just don't activate it. In which case the 803 works just like the 802. Is this correct or is the dehumidify feature on the 803 on full time with no way to turn it off? I plan on using the comfort-R setting as opposed to the dehumidify setting on the stat.
Thanks

 

Yes, you are correct that you can turn this setting off if you don't need it.

When you are ready to hook up, let me know, and I can guide you on this. Make sure you pull 7 wires in the walls.

 

OK thanks for your offer .

 

You are welcome.

 

have tcont803as32daa and i have no idea how to wire it. i thought i connected it correctly but i don't have aire, so obviously i don't know what i am doing. any help would be appreciated...THANKS!!!

 

Welcome aboard Tyler,

This thread is 3 years old, and as you may of saw, the owner never came back and had me help them.

So, I have no ideal what you have going or have for equipment that we are hooking up this t-stat to.

Can you give me the info?

 

Hello,

I recently started looking into how my 6 year old Trane system is configured because it never seemed to be working like it was advertised to. At the time I purchased the system it was a fairly new product line and I don't think the installer was very familiar with it. I have a very basic white-rogers tstat connected to a XL90 gas furnace/air handler w/ variable speed DC motor. The AC is a 14i.

After reading through the forums and much googling I decided that the system is not setup optimally. I have a new 803 tstat I would like to install and I would like to take advantage of the variable speed blower motor. If you are still offering installation assistance I will post the model numbers of the components, how things are connected now and how I think they should be connected and any other information that would be helpful.

Thank you.

 

Welcome aboard,

I'd happy to help out.. Please post the model # of your furnace, and I can look it up to be sure we get full advntage of this furnace.

 

Thank you.

Today I pulled an 8 wire cable to the new tstat, old tstat had 5 wires. I've studied the installation guide and the documents I have found via google and I am still unclear on a few things.

Here is what I am working with:
AC unit: XL14i 4ttx4030a1000aa
Blower/furnace: tuy080r9v3v3
coil: rxc031s3hpc0

The AC has only one compressor but says it is two stage. I don't think I understand what "2 stage" is.
I checked the dip switch settings on the furnace and set them to what I believe they should be:

s1 (airflow selection)

1 off
2 on
now set for 2.5ton ac unit (was set to 3). I believe it is a 2.5ton from the '30' (30k btu) in the model number. 30k/12k = 2.5 Am I wrong on this? should it be 3?

3 off
4 off
400cfm/ton 'normal'. What does changing this do to the performance of the system? 350 and 450cfm are the other two options

5 on
6 on
comfort-r this use to be set to 90sec(factory default) From my reading comfort-r seems to be a fairly nebulos term.

7 off
8 on
factory setting 900/1250 (for my model) I'm not clear on what changing this setting will do for system heating performance

s3 (heat off delay)
1 on
2 on
100sec (factory default)

The install manual for the 803tstat says to connect it as follows:

tstat furnace/blower

Y2 --> Y
W2 --> W2
RC/R (jumpered together) --> R/BK (jumpered together)
W1 --> W1
Y --> Ylo
G --> G
B --> B

What confuses me is the diagram also shows three (3) wires coming in from the compressor connecting to the furnace. I only have 2 wires coming in from the compressor. I went outside and traced them, one goes to the contact relay, the other goes inside the unit somewhere. The install diagram shows:

compressor furnace/blower
Y1 --> Ylo
Y2 --> Y
B --> B

Do I need to run another wire from the compressor? If so, where does it connect in there? The wiring diagram on the inside of the compressor cover was unreadable so I know very little about how that unit is wired or if there is even a Y2 terminal.
I assume Y1 and Y2 from the compressor are for the two stages and that is why they connect to the two fan speed terminals in the blower. Maybe I need to jumper the Y and Ylo together if I only have two wires?

The original install had the two wires from the compressor connected like this:

compressor furnace/blower
Y1 --> Y (I assume this is connected to Y1 in the compressor)
B --> B

I would like to optimize the system for humidity removal. It doesn't get terribly hot in this region but it does get humid. I would also like to be able to use all the features this system has.

Thank you for your help, I look forward to your input on this.

-paul

 

Where are you seeing it says "Two Stage"?

Correct.


450cfm is ideal for hot dry area like the dessert.
400cfm is good for most area that has warm temps, and some humidity.
350cfm is ideal for area is humid and has low heat load. (raininy weather)

Do you have a jumper wire between Y and O on the board to enhance the profile of the Comfort-R?

This setting is your heating blower speed. Do you have a meat temp probe?


THis jumper a factory wire, or field installed wire?

As above, Your system is a single stage, so you wire One wire to B, and other wire to Y2 at the furnace from the compressor.

FYI, I am going out of town this morning till Sunday night. I"ll post back if you have any other quesitons then.

 

My mistake. I misremembered. I rechecked the literature with the compressor and it actually says "two step".

Sounds like 400cfm is about right for my area.

I do not have this jumper installed. I saw reference to it on the comfort-r pocket reference but it says "O terminal must be jumper to Y or Ylo for two-stage cooling" But I thought we established that I don't have a two stage cooling system. Either Trane isn't consistent in their usage of two-stage or there is something else I am not understanding.

Should I add the jumper?

I do have a digital meat temp probe with a remote probe.


It is a factory wire.

I don't have a "Y2" on the furnace, only at the tstat. The furnace has Y and Ylo. Would Y2 be Ylo?

No problem. This has been a big help. I'm finally beginning to understand what is going on with the setup.

thanks.

 

If you had two stage, then a jumper is added to Ylo, but you have single stage, it's added to Y.


I don't know how cool it is where you are at. but when fall comes when you turn on the furnace, I'd like you take a temp reading in the supply side, and return to see what your temp rise is.

Some board I"ve seen shows Y2.

Y is for single stage system, or 2nd stage of two stage system.

Ylo is only for first stage on two stage system.

 

Thank you for the clarifications. I feel much better about the installation now. It's a little warm ~80degF to be running the furnace but I will measure a delta temp between supply and return when the weather cools off. For curiosity I will also make the same measurement for cooling.

Thank you again for your help.

-paul

 

I wish it warmed up here.. We had to turn on the heat yesterday since it was 60˚ in the house. high only in the 50.

 

Hello

I have a two stage 17 seer trane units and I have the Thermostat Tcont803as32daa. I AM CONFUSED because of your previous post.
If you lower your humidity would you not save $ since if feels cooler and can have the temp higher?
I have not activated this feature and would like to unless instructed otherwise.
What is comfort -R and does my thermostat default to this since I have not activated the dehumidity function?
I live in Miami and Humidity is a problem! And 50% or more of the electric bill is cooling. I have two spilt units in my home 5 tons each. Always one half of the home is about 8 degrees more in humidity so I thought it would be good to activate the humidity function.
By the way what is the optimum humidity level? I remember one unit was at 54% and the other was at 63%.
Please advise. Thank you in advance for your time and service!

 

Humidity, or more correctly, relative humidity, is a very difficult parameter to control in a residential system. Optimal RH is usually thought of as being between 40 to 60 percent. (RH is measured in percent, not degrees.) Below 40% peoples eyes and nasal passages feel "dry" and they are uncomfortable. RH above 60% contributes to feeling "clammy" and also encourages the growth of mold and mildew.

Most, if not all residential systems use a slower blower speed on the air handler (furnace) while in cooling mode to allow the air a slower transit time across the cooling coil. This slower movement gives the air a chance to cool to a lower temperature and therefore condense more moisture out of the air. However, if the system temperature drops below the "wet point" of the thermostat (i.e. the compressor stops) no more dehumidification will take place regardless of the setting of the humidistat or any humidity function of the thermostat.

Also, it is difficult to have a residential RH indicator remain accurate and especially at different temperatures. The best instrument for determining RH is a sling psychrometer, a device containing two matched thermometers with the sensing bulb of one covered with a moistened cotton wick. The unit is slung in the room for a minute or so and then the temperatures of the two thermometers is checked against a psychrometric chart to determine the relative humidity at that particular room temperature.

 

VERY INTERESTING....should we use this function or not?

 

The humidity control on your t-stat is just going to "force" the A/C on to try to dry out the home below set point. The blower is not controled (slowed down) with this model.

Ideal humidity is to keep it under 50%, no more than 55%. Mold grows above 50%.

Since you said you have two stage cooling, I'm guessing you have variable speed blower? What is the model #?

Also, 10 tons of cooling!? How large is your home to have that much cooling? My guts says oversized, and your system can't run long enough to "dry" out the house.

Also, are you able to get to the furnace or air handler to give me the dip switch settings along with the full model #?

 

Is there a better t-stat that "controls the blower" for energy savings?

My home is set to 77 all day on "permanent hold" (because was not sure best cost effective programing and I started to get crack in ceiling) then set to 73 in the "sleeping area" from 9pm to 6am then back to 77. My humidity is always over 50% and always higher in the sleeping or private side of the home.

Yes I have variable speed and I think 2006 the best 5 ton available was the XL19i I am pretty sure that was we have, but for some reason I remember that 19 was not possible for 5 ton and even thou it show XL19i it was actually something like 17.8 seer???

Under air about 5,500 sq ft, with ceiling heights average 12 feet high and lots of eastern (large windows) and western (store front picture windows (in family room 12' X 8' exposure). Which by the way heat is a serious problem and unit on "social" side for the home (south end) from 4pm to 6pm, the unit cant keep up. When 3:30 or so and we have 77 setting it will go up a couple degress even in full speed until Sun starts comming down. New 2006 construction so good R30 insulation, but no insulated windows only hurricane resistant.

I am sorry I am not sure what you want on your last question.

Basically, we are trying to find best method of keep energy cost as low as possible.

THANK YOU FOR YOUR HELP!

 

Honeywell IAQ t-stat will be the best t-stat.

For cooling, I think there is no saving with program. I set mine at 76˚ all summer, in the winter, I do use the program, and know we do save money on the heating side.

That's pretty high. Do you run the fan mode in "AUTO", or "ON"?



The house total sq ft is 5,500? About how many sq ft does unit #1 do and for #2.

What do you have for returns? And where are they at?

Do you have blinds or anything to block out the sun/heat?

 

By the way how do you do the quotes? Well, here we go....I will try this....

Why is it better and is this the exact model in order to get price on web?

Auto always

Roughly half but I think the "social area has more square footage and note the "bedrooms" are always higher humidity

I think its like 20"x20"?? Can I send picture? I have to check amount of returns are where.

YES, just a bit see thru but not much. I have lots of glazing in the side. Only thing maybe us landscaping.

THANK YOU FOR YOUR GREAT ADVICE AND LOOKING FORWARD TO MORE

 

Looks like you got it figured out!


The model is YTH9421C1002, it can be found on the web, and also may be found on E-bay as well. With the IAQ, you are able to wire up the Dehumidity control and able to keep the air handler running at a slower speed to try to remove the humdity out of the air.

You are okay there, When people run the fan ON in cooling mode, it throws the humidity right back into the home.


If the bedroom got 5 tons of cooling it for sure is oversized, and it don't have a chance to run enough to dry out the air.


As for the returns, if you got one large one, the heat from the "hot area" will have a harder time getting away from there to the return opening. I am guessing the return grill is not in this hot spot?

 

OK, please excuse the ignorance but how do you do this and what does this mean? "able to keep the air handler running at a slower speed" The t-stat that I have now can not do this?

Will check and let you know.

 

Right now your T-stat is not able to tell the furnace board to slow down to control the humidity. Not knowing if Comfort-R on the furnace is set up or not. but if it was set up, the Comfort-R will only run the blower at 80% speed for 8 minutes, then ramps up to the full CFM.

The only thing your t-stat will do is see how humid it is in the home, and if the humidity is high, the t-stat will force the A/C on, and will try to dry out the home, but the blower may not be running at a slower speed to do the job, and the t-stat may end up cooling the space up to 3˚ below set point.

The Honeywell IAQ t-stat control (EIM) has a hook up to wire up the DHUM (Dehumidify) control on it to the BK on the furnace. So if the humidity is higher than the set point (I suggest 45%), the blower will stay at 80% speed to dehumidfy the home, and if the humdity is lower than the set point, then the blower will run full speed.

 

Do you recommend Comfort-R instead of Humidity control? And if so (which I think you do?) how do we confirm it is set up for Comfort-R. I can think the wall wiring.

So the Honeywell will run continued at 80% instead of 8 minutes?

.

So to dehumidify is better for the blower to run at 80% vs full speed?

Yesterday my "sleeping quarters" (t-Stat is in my master bedroom with door closed, and the handler is on the outside hallway about 16 ft always) was at 60% and running all night at 73 degrees it came down to 59% and the social area was in the afternoon at 55% and this morning at 53%.

I wish you can service Miami Hard to find good air techs here!!!!!

 

I like the humidity control better than Comfort-R. You can run Comfort-R along with the humdity control Dip switch 5 and 6 should be turned on, and a jumper between Y and O.



Yes, if the humidity is above set point. Once it is below set point then it will go to full speed.

.

Yes, the air flow is slower, and has more "time" to go over the cold coil.


I'd love to do it, but I'd rather stay up here in Minnesota where we have cold winter! (-25˚), and also snow.

 

So, buy the Honeywell and do above? I also got the installers manual on mine but I will go with whatever your recommend.

Any recommendations down here or how to get someone that know what there doing?

 

Where is the unit and ductwork at? I'm guessing in the attic?



I don't know of any one or dealers down your way.. Guess just making phone calls and asking if they have installed the IAQ system, if not just keep on calling till you find one. If you do find one, then just let me know how it was wired up and what not.

 

Hello

All duct work is in the attic and inside units are in Hallways.

 

Ok, with all the ducts in your attic, I may not want to turn on the Comfort-R since we are exposed to the heat/humidity up there.

I would just have the Dehumid control wired up the the board.

 

Thank you!

So still change t-stat?

 

yes, I would still go with the IAQ t-stat, and you can have better humidity control in the summer.

 

OK WILL DO

Yesterday 61 degrees in "sleeping area!

 

That's a pretty cool temp for A/C!

 

SORRY I was in China on business trip. NOOOO what I meant 61 to 62 degress humidity!

 

Hope you had a good trip in China?

Degrees is temp, humidity is read in percentage=%

 

your right! sorry. Its that I have too much humidity.

 

The IAQ may help, but my guts say you have way too much A/C of 5 tons in the bedroom.. There is no high heat load, so it's going to run short cycle, not enough time to pull out the humidity.