Install Help on HW YTH2421C1002


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Old 12-07-09, 02:35 PM
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Install Help on HW YTH2421C1002

I have a two-stage heat Trane furnace with single stage A/C and a Enviracare H364 Powered Humidifier. The humidifier was originally installed with a H8908B controller which requires constant setting changes to compensate for outside temp. My reason for going with the new Vision Pro and an outside temp sensor. Our temps in Colorado very greatly from day to night and week to week.

I am a little confused with the proper wiring of the Humidifier to the EIM. Do I connect the two red wires (24volt) from the humidifier to the C & R terminals on the EIM and use the humidifier transformer, or do I run wires from the Furnace board's R & B terminal to the EIM R & C terminal and use the furnace's transformer?

It should be noted that my humidifier receives it's power (115 volts) from an outlet box installed on the outside of the furnace and is wired to the Furnace junction box. It is only powered when the furnace starts. I assume they did this to avoid installing a sail switch to activate the humidifier. Thus, if I depend on the transformer in the humidifier, to power the EIM, I would have to plug it into a standard 115 volt outlet so the transformer would be putting out a constant 24 volts. Correct or am I missing something.

Second, do I run the two yellow wires from the humidifier to the HU1 and M2 terminals on the EIM?

The remainder of the wiring seems pretty straight forward, but any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thank You,

Depdad
 
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Old 12-07-09, 08:44 PM
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You just run the two yellow wires down to HUM1 and HUM2.

DO NOT use the red wires on anything.

The humidifier has it's own transformer, and is getting power from the plug in. The HUM in the EIM is just a switch on and off.
 
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Old 12-08-09, 09:40 AM
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Wiring Humidifier to YTH9421

Thank you very much for you help. I was confused by the Honeywell wiring guide showing the "typical" hookup for a powered humidifier. It showed two wires from transformer to C&R on the EIM and two wires from "powered humidifier" to H1 & M2 on the EIM. I assumed the two transformer wires were coming from the humidifier.

Product

So, if I understand you right, the EIM and thermostat get their power from R & B terminals on the Furnace board, not the humidifier. Note: the book on my Trane XL80 furnace shows that the furnace B terminal is used for thermostats requiring connection to transformer common terminal.

One last question, the wiring diagram on the yth9421 shows the humidifier connections as H1 and M2. You said to connect to H1 & H2. Being the dummy that I am, is M2 the same as H2? The EIM connections for dehumidifier and ventilator are labeled D1&M2, and V1&T2 respectively. Don't understand why they did not just use H1& H2, D1&D2, and V1& V2?

Again, you assistance is greatly appreciated and probably saved me from frying an expensive piece of equipment.

Thank you,

Jim
 
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Old 12-08-09, 10:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Depdad View Post
So, if I understand you right, the EIM and thermostat get their power from R & B terminals on the Furnace board, not the humidifier.
Correct.


One last question, the wiring diagram on the yth9421 shows the humidifier connections as H1 and M2. You said to connect to H1 & H2. Being the dummy that I am, is M2 the same as H2?
It's the same.. They may of changed the print on the board.. Mine is a small print of HUM1 and HUM2..

I've seen some like this.
H1
U
M2

D1
U
M2

Do you plan on hooking up the DHUM hook up to your furnace?

Let me know if you need me to review the advance settings.
 
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Old 12-08-09, 03:25 PM
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Okay, thanks again and I think I understand it all now. I won't receive the Thermostat until Friday, but the Install guides I've downloaded do show the Humidifier hookup like you said:
H1
U
M2

Don't know what the actual EIM will show when I get it but at least I understand it all now.

No, I am not hooking up a dehumidifier to my system. Humidity is not a problem in Colorado- it's usually the lack of humidity in the winter when the furnace runs constantly. Except when my cheap, manual humidistat has to be adjusted constantly to the outside temp, which usually results in the humidifier putting too much moisture into the air during the very cold weather we have been getting. When our temp swings from 0 degrees like today to 50's and 60's next week, it is hard to keep a manual humidistat set correctly. Even the day and night temps fluctuate significantly at 7800 feet in CO, resulting in a lot of moisture on the windows.

I believe I read in one of your post that you are in MN, so you are getting the cold too, but I think you probably have more humidity there than we have.

Again thanks a million for your help and your offer to assist with advanced settings. I will probably require your assistance with that, but will wait to read the manual so I understand your recommendations better. I'll probably be looking for you again this weekend.

Jim
 
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Old 12-08-09, 08:54 PM
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[QUOTE=Depdad;1659951
No, I am not hooking up a dehumidifier to my system. [/quote]
It would be in the summer mode for the dehumid mode works. I would hook it up anyway, that way if you do get a hot humid summer, house full of company you can remove the humidity.

I believe I read in one of your post that you are in MN, so you are getting the cold too, but I think you probably have more humidity there than we have.
Yep, it's cold out, can get down to -20˚ at times and we are under a blizzard warning now.

I will probably require your assistance with that, but will wait to read the manual so I understand your recommendations better. I'll probably be looking for you again this weekend.
Sounds good. Let me know when you do!
 
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Old 12-15-09, 05:38 PM
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Thermostat Install

Jay,

Well, thanks to you I got everything hooked up and it appears to be working great. As indicated previously, my system is an XL80, 2 stage Trane with Trane, 1 stage cooling. Only add-on is the Eviracare powered humidifier and outside temp sensor installed.

I set the humidity at 40% and the frost factor at 5 and it seems to be doing a great job of maintaining that setting and keeping the moisture off the windows which was my primary goal for installing this thermostat.

The settings I felt were relevant to my system are set as follows. If you have any suggestions for additional settings or changes, please let me know.

Function Setting

172 1 conventional system
176 2 2 stage heat. Auto Discover set this.
220 5 Stage 1 compressor cycle rate-Auto Disc.
240 5 Stage 1 heat cycle rate- Auto Disc. set
250 5 Stage 2 heat cycle rate- Auto Disc. Set
342 1 Outdoor temp sensor
370 1 Internal Sensor- default
372 3 Humidify with Frost protect-Auto Detect
374 2 Humidify only when heat is on
650 60 Extend heat fan run time after call for heat.
660 60 Extend cool fan run time after call for cool.

I think the furnace itself is already set to extend heat fan run time and don't know if I should leave the thermostat at 0 or what.

Thanks again for your help.

Jim
 
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Old 12-15-09, 08:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Depdad View Post
Jay,

Well, thanks to you I got everything hooked up and it appears to be working great
Glad to hear!

Anything with "Auto Discover" E, change it to a number value.

Here is what I suggest to set to.

176-2
220-3
240-2
250-3

I think the furnace itself is already set to extend heat fan run time and don't know if I should leave the thermostat at 0 or what.
The furnace has it's own timer, so set it to 0.
 
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Old 12-17-09, 10:20 AM
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Thermostat Install

Jay,

I made the changes you indicated, but have a couple more questions. What are the benefits of setting the cycles per hour to 3 vs 5? Also, will this have any impact on maintaining somewhat of an equal temperature on the upper and lower levels of my home?

I am currently using the thermostat fan feature to circulate and it seems to be helping maintain somewhat of an equal temp. My home is a rancher with lower level below ground except for the southside which is a walkout. Naturally the lower level tends to stay cooler. I am wondering if the less frequent runs of the furnace cycles will result in lower temps downstairs.

Thank You,

Jim
 
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Old 12-17-09, 10:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Depdad View Post
What are the benefits of setting the cycles per hour to 3 vs 5?
3 is going to give you a longer run time vs 5. On an avg, at 50% load, the furnace is going to run about 20 minutes vs 10 minutes. With longer run time it will have a better chance to even out the temps in the home. With my two stage Trane, 1st stage pretty much runs non stop when it get down to 0˚ and when it gets colder ,then the 2nd stage starts cycling on and off. With that steady low heat, you will get better comfort in the home.

And if you have returns near the floor downstairs, that helps too.

I am currently using the thermostat fan feature to circulate and it seems to be helping maintain somewhat of an equal temp..
The fan on does help move air around in the house, and make it a little bit more even. I run my fan 24/7 in the winter, and most of the rooms are +/-1˚ from one another in the whole house. My fan is variable speed, so it run quiet and soft, where your fan is not variable speed, so more noise is noticed.
 
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Old 12-17-09, 05:23 PM
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Thermostat Install

Okay, thanks a lot for all your help. I made the changes and will see how they work out. I thought about running my fan 24/7 instead of just the additional 35% that the Circulate mode offers, but hesitated doing so fearing the increased cost of running the 3/4 motor all the time. The fan noise has not really been a problem, just considered the extra cost. Has running your fan 24/7 increased your electric bill significantly?

As I said before, the lower level of my home is often 3-5 degrees lower than upstairs, especially when it is sunny and heats upstairs kicking off the thermostat.
 
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Old 12-17-09, 08:32 PM
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Your power bill may go up some, maybe $15 to $25 more a month.

Mine blower is variable speed, it uses very little power, Maybe $7 a month to run vs your PSC motor.

Variable speed blower uses about 60 to 100 watts of power, where your may use 300 to 500 watts of power.
 
 

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