Hook up VisionPro Stat.


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Old 12-02-10, 09:13 PM
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Hook up VisionPro Stat.

Hello, I have a weather king/rheem heat pump and a Frigidaire furnace with back up 20kw heat strips and a Honeywell vision pro 8000 th8320u1008 3 heat/2 cool T-stat



The weather king/rheem 3 ton 13 seer heat pump has: 5 therm wire's which are blue-purple-yellow-red-brown



The Frigidaire variable speed furnace control board has: R--Y1--Y2--O--G--C--W3--E--W4--W2--



Honeywell 8000 T-stat for heat pump side hookup has:RC--R--O/B--Y--G--C--AUX--E--L



I think I have figured out that the RC/R are jumped together on the T-stat and yellow with yellow and green with green and Orange goes to O/B but not sure about the rest of the wire's that go to the control board from the therm wires from the heat pump and so on...



Chad56

Any help here I would be most grateful!
 
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Old 12-03-10, 05:43 AM
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Originally Posted by chad56
The weather king/rheem 3 ton 13 seer heat pump has: 5 therm wire's which are blue-purple-yellow-red-brown
I don't know what wire is going to what letters, colors don't mean anything.

The Frigidaire variable speed furnace control board has:
Is is an air handler, not furnace. Furnace use gas for heat.

Stat-----------Air handler---------HP
R/Rc------------ R------------------R
Y----------------Y1------------------Y
O/B--------------O-----------------O
C-----------------C-----------------C
E-----------------E----------------W2
Aux--------------W2
G----------------G
 
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Old 12-03-10, 07:10 AM
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Red face The Frigidaire variable speed furnace control board has:

Sorry if there was any confusion in my post using the word furnace in my explanation as I have never been corrected before now in my explanations, although I think I had made it pretty clear in my post what I was talking about.I also see you used the word furnace in your reply.

Anyway thank you very much and I will give it a shot.

Have a great day jay!

Chad56
 
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Old 12-03-10, 12:58 PM
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No problem. Glad to help.

Let me know if you need help with the advance/installer set up menu.
 
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Old 12-04-10, 04:38 PM
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Unhappy Low voltage wiring from heat pump to air handler to T-stat

OK... I seemed to have my new vision-pro stat 8000 programed and have hooked everything up and nothing, the T-stat seemed easy to program and adjust. I am pretty sure I have it programed correctly.

As to the low voltage hook up you had showed to me in the post is correct according to the information I have found from weather king heat pump schematics as to low voltage wires, heat pump/air handler/T-stat
If I use my old T-stat that is for just the heat strips and the air cond the new heat pump compressor comes on in cool but no heat from the heat strips in heat.
Just not sure why I cant get it to work. The air handler fan in just fan mode does not even come on with the new T-stat the way it is currently hooked up. It just seems like no power.I even tried bringing the red wire in on either side of the R or RC area. Not really sure if it was going to make a difference but tired it anyway.
I know I am getting power to both the air handler and compressor

I am wondering if I try the schematics from my air handler that shows to hooking up low voltage wires from heat pump to air handler to T-stat it shows that W2 goes from heat pump to W2 to the air handler and then W2 to the T-stat and jumped over to the the E in the T stat ...Everything else seems to remain the same as to the weather king schematic accept that one change. I would have tried it but don't want to blow my new T stat so I was thinking to run this by you and what you think about trying this?

Your help is much appreciated!

Chad56
 
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Old 12-04-10, 09:19 PM
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Did you put a meter on it to make sure you are getting 24v power?
 
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Old 12-05-10, 06:36 PM
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Lightbulb

I could not find my meter which am sure was loan out and never returned but did some testing to see if I was getting 24 volts. I went into the Vision pro T-stat and change some settings.

It says in there installation guide on #0280 back light setting that when you want the back light to stay on at low intensity requires a 24 v connection to operate at all times, this option is working as I had set with low intensity light on all the time, so I believe that tells me that I am getting 24 v

I went into #170 and reprogrammed the new Vision pro T-stat to 1 heat and/1 cool conventional and wired it to per the directions and all runs great. The air handler comes on with heat strips when called for and as well as the circulating fan. Also does the the compressor for the air cond and getting cool air. All goes on and off great with the new T-stat. I just now need to get the heat pump power option to operate but will have to change some wires back.

I will try and do some more testing tomorrow when it is light outside. I got home from work today and seemed as it was already getting dark... If I tried hooking up the low voltage wires from heat pump to air handler to T-stat and tested W2 goes from heat pump to W2 to the air handler and then W2 to the T-stat and jumped over to the the E in the T stat do you think that would hurt anything? Please let me know if you may have any other ideas for me to look at.



Your help is much appreciated!

Chad56
 
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Old 12-05-10, 06:56 PM
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A curveball here is that your Rheem energizes the reversing valve to heat "B".
option 190 = 1
Your air handler uses an "O" terminal to run heatpump speed. (energized for cooling)
option 190 = 0

Setting option 190 to 1, and using a relay comes to mind.

A matching system is even more important with heat pumps since the indoor coil serves as the condenser coil in heat mode.
 
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Old 12-05-10, 07:16 PM
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Since my dollars are very few these days I really had no other option here and that's just the tip of it. I was told that it would match up to my air handler but I can also see your point here.

Where the T-stat is now set and was set on option # 190 is on 1, O/B terminal control valve in heating. I was told this was right for Weather king/Rheem... You had said something about a relay, please tell me more if you could ...


Your help is much appreciated!

Chad56
 
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Old 12-06-10, 08:17 AM
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Can you explain adding the relay ...

Thank you in advance!

Chad56
 
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Old 12-06-10, 01:35 PM
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Question Setting the visionpro to option 190 to 1, and using a relay comes to mind.

Ok...after my testing around with my new VisionPro 8000 T-stat I have found that every time I hook up the the reversing valve wire to O/B I blow a fuse on the air handler control board when set to option #0170 = 7 and I even tried 12, when I have it set to #0170 = 1 and change the orange back to white it runs the air cond coil but with no heat pump. Does anyone know anything about that certain relay that was mentioned here and how to configure this?




Chad56

Thanks you again for your help!
 
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Old 12-06-10, 06:56 PM
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Your O/B wire is wired to common or shorted.

Color codes vary.

 
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Old 12-06-10, 07:14 PM
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A single pole double throw relay with a 24 volt coil would work.
I prefer double pole double throw relays with a 24 volt coil though.
 
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Old 12-06-10, 10:18 PM
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Question Is there any brand or model you could suggest?

Thank you so much for researching this out for me! I cant thank you enough!

I was just on line looking at these relay switches and there is so many of them out there. Is there any brand # or model # you could suggest to me?


Thank you again in advance Houston204 !



Chad56
 
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Old 12-07-10, 04:06 PM
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http://www.marsm-a.com/images/catalog/c-56.pdf


I use Mars 90340 or the WhiteRodgers or Honeywell equivalent double pole double throw (DPDT) relays.
 
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Old 12-13-10, 01:25 PM
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Question

I had ordered a double pole double throw (DPDT) Mars relay 90340 and what they have sent me was a White Rogers relay 90-340 in its place. I had assumed that this was also correct. I have hooked everything up accordingly, Red on #1 of relay Blue on # 2 of relay and Orange on #3 of relay and nothing on #4 #5 and #6... also O/B blue on the left of front relay and C/ brown common on the right front of relay.

When I throw the air handler breaker the new relay is making a loud noise which I was not sure what is going on so I thought I would ask you what you think I am doing wrong here. I have gone over several times to make sure everything from the drawing is correct and it is. I was thinking maybe I would make sure everything is making contact again.
Maybe when I am making contact with all R and B/Common wires they are all making contact at the control board maybe they all should not all contact the control board?

Any ideas would be appreciated.

Thank you again,

Chad56
 
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Old 12-13-10, 03:58 PM
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That's the same relay. Are the terminals still numbered as shown in the manual?
I would be sure the terminal locations are the same, numbers may (and do) vary.
Red is normally closed to orange and open to blue. Red closes to blue and opens to orange when 24 volts is applied to the coil.

Verify that the wiring is as shown in the diagram at the air handler, thermostat and heat pump.

Did you find the crossed O/B wire and correct it? (brown and blue)
 
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Old 12-13-10, 04:12 PM
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Old 12-13-10, 06:49 PM
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The T-stat is on off position and when I throw the air handler breaker I here a flattering loud noise like maybe the contacts inside the relay?
Not sure what this is but I have rechecked all my contacts,T-stat, air handler, and heat pump and everything looks good and everything is where it is suppose to be. I am wondering that maybe the relay is bad? When this guy shipped the relay to me it was in the little box 1 1/2" x 2" it looks like they come in that box, but looks like he shipped it with no wrap, etc. around it. I am sure that little tiny box with that relay may have got thrown around pretty good. I am surprise it even found its way to my mail box.
 
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Old 12-13-10, 07:32 PM
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I'm not sure what you mean by flattering noise.
Chatter or a click?

Seems like that relay should have been packed better. The most fragile area would be near the coil terminals. Any broken plastic there?

Was brown connected to C at the air handler?
Did you need to change any wiring to get this color code?

Pictures can be posted on this sight using Image hosting, free photo sharing & video sharing at Photobucket
I'd be interested in viewing the connections at your outdoor unit, air handler and stat.
 
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Old 12-13-10, 08:22 PM
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More of a loud chatter I would say as that will not stop untill a shut down the breaker at the furnace. This is when the T-stat is in the off postion and the heat pump breakers are still off. I tried it with the heat pump breakers on and still no change but the loud chatter from the new relay.I did not see anything cracked on the outside of the relay but I would think that sometimes that would not mean anything when its elec. I agree he could of shipped it better than that.

Brown was connected to the C at the air handler from new relay, also brown from the heat pump and T-stat to the C...The only wire I had to change was when I went into the heat pump and changed the orange wire on the blue lead from the heat pump, I changed this to blue on the blue lead therm wire on the heat pump and as well in the T-stat from orange to now blue.

I will take some pictures and see if I can get them posted of what I have done as per the wires.
 
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Old 12-13-10, 08:38 PM
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Take the relay out of the circuit and see if we get heat and cool without it. It could be a shorted reversing valve wire. This is commonly found outside where the wire runs near a hot gas copper pipe that has branded my arm more than once. (between the compressor and the reversing valve)

Just park (move) the 2 blue wires on terminals 4 and 5 (normally closed circuit) on that relay. Then move orange from terminal 2 to terminal 3.
 
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Old 12-13-10, 09:22 PM
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The heat pump is new and has not had a whole of running time but for very short periods. I have always shut down right away in cool, never have had the heat pump working as yet for heat. I will take a look at it in the morning and run the test as you suggest. I do remember however that when I tried this before without the relay as wires per the T-stat as your picture shows just now switching the orange wire to now the blue I would blow a fuse on the control board on the air handler. I will give it a try as you suggest in the morning.

Thank you Houston204

Chad56
 
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Old 12-14-10, 02:04 PM
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Question

I did the relay test as you suggested by parking the terminals of the relay but after doing so the control board fuse blew. I am trying to send some pics of the therm wire install.

I also checked the wires laying on or up against the copper pipe and you are correct they do lay right up to it. I have checked the wires and they look good as far as I can tell. Did not see any melted wires.
 
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Old 12-14-10, 02:29 PM
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I have loaded picture's in photobucket and still trying to figure out to post them. As soon as I fugure this out I will send them to you.
 
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Old 12-14-10, 04:29 PM
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Old 12-14-10, 05:02 PM
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Old 12-14-10, 05:11 PM
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Thanks....I started to post the pictures like you had showed but just was not sure. Didnt want to mess things up on this thread...

Hope the pictures show something that I might be doing wrong so it could be a quick fix.
 
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Old 12-14-10, 05:31 PM
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Your wire connections look good. I can't see 3 brown wires on air handler C though.

I have seen stat wires shorted at the brown jacket covering the 6 conductors (cut too deeply when trying to separate and wire in).
You might pull the wires apart and examine at these locations.

Disconnect blue at the outdoor unit and restore power. If the problem does not reoccur, it would point to something in the outdoor unit.

If this does not help, I would isolate and ohm the wiring for a short.
(Disconnect and separate wires at ahu and outdoor unit, leave wires on stat subbase and measure for continuity between conductors there)
 
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Old 12-14-10, 06:48 PM
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All the brown wires on C on the air handler control board are there, there was a wire in the way of the picture shot which blocks the view a bit.

Checking the T-stat wires again is a good idea. Remember 1 heat and 1 cool work in the conventional mode, powers up the heat strips and the outdoor compressor in cool...for that you would all most think it would have to be related to the compressor trying to switch to heat mode or the control board not letting it.

So you think the relay is ok and not damaged?

Is the control board in the air handler the main control for everything to work right ?

The Rheem heat pump shows to hook up one way and the Nordyne control board schematics says to hook up another. Just trying to close all these holes.

I have a picture of the schematics of the Nordyne control board and the Rheem and I would like you to take a look at for sure, maybe nothing. I will take a picture and load it to the thread now that I have figured this out.

Thank you again.

Chad56
 
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Old 12-14-10, 07:36 PM
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This problem points to the reversing valve wire. If this happens with blue and orange, it is probably a problem at the outdoor unit. It could also be two damaged wires though.

The relay is probably fine. We will know more when we locate and repair the short.

All 3 boards serve their purpose, the air handler powers up everything. I consider the stat the main control...

Sure, post the diagrams. If you can give me both model numbers it will help.
 
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Old 12-14-10, 09:00 PM
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Frigidaire Air Handler schematics:Model # B2VMO42K-B Serial # B2V9906-00102

This picture shows that E on the control board has no wire and the T-stat jumps from W2 over to E...It does show E is used however if you are with 4 stage and then shows E tied in with W2...Maybe nothing but just thought I would bring up...Sorry the pic is not the best, I hope you can read or I will try and resend if needed.




Rheem Heat Pump schematics Model # 13PJA36A01 Serial # 7331-M18060-6907
 
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Old 12-14-10, 09:17 PM
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Your air handler diagram is for 10 KW. You have 20KW.
Do you have a diagram for 20KW? We should verify that the second strip is wired to E. I have already considered this but didn't want to proceed down this path until the short is corrected.


With that thermostat, it is better to wire outdoor unit defrost to the E heat strip (as shown in my diagram) since this will allow for 2 stage electric heat operation and increase comfort and capacity. The instructor went over this in a Trane class I recently attended for NATE continued education.
 
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Old 12-14-10, 09:43 PM
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(This is the right one)


Frigidaire Air Handler schematics:Model # B2VMO42K-B Serial # B2V9906-00102

I sent you the wrong 1st schematics before as on the Frigidaire as I am in use of the heat pump with single-stage 10 kw as I am running a 20 kw electric heat back up... not air cond system with two stage as I had sent before.

Everything now is currently hooked up to the rheem heat pump schematics...
 
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Old 12-14-10, 09:49 PM
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Question

When the installer put the air handler/furnace in new several years ago they installed a 15 KW which was recently switch to a 20 KW I was told that this was ok...Is that a problem?
 
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Old 12-14-10, 10:15 PM
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20KW is fine as long as your wire size and breaker permit this.

Looks like the top half of the 20KW diagram is cut off. Jumpers may be required to energize all 20 KW. This is probably unrelated to the short though.
 
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Old 12-15-10, 12:33 PM
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I have a dual-circuit power supply for the heat strips. I am not sure if this might matter or not but when the 15kw strips were in place I had noticed that not all the elements in the strips were hot as I could see this when I had the air handler door open and the fan running in heat so as I long as I was getting heat I just left it alone.(Maybe a reply or something but even changed them a same thing after.) I replace with a new 20kw and I am have notice the same thing. Was thinking maybe a defect in the strips but I do get more heat out of them when they are on than before. Not sure if this matter's with my current issue but thought I would bring it up anyway.

I am posting some other information in regards to the air handler as it might help or not.

Thank you...

Chad56
 
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Old 12-15-10, 04:15 PM
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W3 and W4 are two of your four heating elements. Looks like you have jumpers J3, J4 and J5. I'd like to look into removing J4 to separate W2 and E.

This would work better with an outdoor stat to engage these additional strips only on colder days.

Looks like proper airflow is delivered when Y1 is energized, so yellow would connect here.
 

Last edited by Houston204; 12-15-10 at 06:44 PM.
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Old 12-15-10, 07:44 PM
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So you are still thinking the problem/short is in the stat wires either from air handler to the heat pump or the air handler to the T-stat ?

Is there anything in the heat pump it self may have shorted out that I could also look for, fuse, etc.?

If the breakers are off of the heat pump from both the inside panel and the quick disconnect outside and I run the test its doing the same thing as before as blowing a fuse and the relay noise, as the breakers off of the heat pump could this still be picking up a short to or in the heat pump?
 
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Old 12-15-10, 07:54 PM
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I think the problem is probably in the outdoor unit.
Isolate and test.
 
 

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