Wiring Woes! Cross wired white and black connections I think...
#1
12-04-12, 01:16 PM
Wiring Woes! Cross wired white and black connections I think...
Hi, I have a packaged heat pump, York, with emergency back up heat. I have had a couple issues that I think are finally resolved (2 compressors later), but the last of these I thought is a) the thermostat itself or b)in the tstat wiring. I want to replace the thermostat anyways, but the problem is this: running in heat mode and fan set to auto, the tstat satisfies, compressor shut down but the fan still blows cold air for long extended periods of time.
Looking at the wiring inside the existing tstat (Robertshaw 9420) initially looks right as follows:
L ----
C -Blue
R -Red
Y2 ----
Y1 -Yellow
E -Black
W2 -White
G -Green
O -Orange
B ----
Then I look at the diagram inside my unit (showing connections from unit to tstat) which are as follows:
C- -B(assuming B= blue for common)
R- -R
Y- -Y
W2--W
W1----
G- -G
O- -O
Now the actual connections from my unit to the tsat:
Unit: Tstat:
- -- -L
C- -Blue- -C
R- -Red- -R
Y- -Yellow- -Y1
- -- -Y2
W2- -Black- -E <---THIS CAN'T BE RIGHT :0
W1- -White- -W2 <---NOR THIS
G- -Green- -G
O- -Orange- -O
- -- -B
So this raises questions for the black and white wires connected.
I see that there's nothing on the diagram inside the unit for W1, so is there any need for the white wire connected here? And only W2 is used... going to the tstat W (or W2) terminal but it's actually connected to E terminal.
So am I wrong, or does it look like this is my problem? I want to make sure I do this right and resolve my issue but not clear how would best work for me. Should I just leave the black wire (since its already there) in the unit on W2 then move it in tsat to W2, and jumper with the E terminal after disconnecting the white wire? or swap the black & white wires in the unit, leaving them the same inside the tstat as they already are?
I would appreciate any advice or suggestions.
TIA
Looking at the wiring inside the existing tstat (Robertshaw 9420) initially looks right as follows:
L ----
C -Blue
R -Red
Y2 ----
Y1 -Yellow
E -Black
W2 -White
G -Green
O -Orange
B ----
Then I look at the diagram inside my unit (showing connections from unit to tstat) which are as follows:
C- -B(assuming B= blue for common)
R- -R
Y- -Y
W2--W
W1----
G- -G
O- -O
Now the actual connections from my unit to the tsat:
Unit: Tstat:
- -- -L
C- -Blue- -C
R- -Red- -R
Y- -Yellow- -Y1
- -- -Y2
W2- -Black- -E <---THIS CAN'T BE RIGHT :0
W1- -White- -W2 <---NOR THIS
G- -Green- -G
O- -Orange- -O
- -- -B
So this raises questions for the black and white wires connected.
I see that there's nothing on the diagram inside the unit for W1, so is there any need for the white wire connected here? And only W2 is used... going to the tstat W (or W2) terminal but it's actually connected to E terminal.
So am I wrong, or does it look like this is my problem? I want to make sure I do this right and resolve my issue but not clear how would best work for me. Should I just leave the black wire (since its already there) in the unit on W2 then move it in tsat to W2, and jumper with the E terminal after disconnecting the white wire? or swap the black & white wires in the unit, leaving them the same inside the tstat as they already are?
I would appreciate any advice or suggestions.
TIA
#3
12-04-12, 09:04 PM
pic of diagram in the unit
I have the picture on my public skydrive but I keep getting an error msg when I try to enter the URL to insert the pic, so here is the link.
https://skydrive.live.com/redir?resi...A88D123CE6!599
I also have the terminals on the unit and the thermostat terminals they show connected to each other listed in my original post.
https://skydrive.live.com/redir?resi...A88D123CE6!599
I also have the terminals on the unit and the thermostat terminals they show connected to each other listed in my original post.
#5
12-06-12, 05:16 AM
The fan doesn't shut off that I have noticed on its own, just when I mess with the thermostat. And no, I'm not constantly changing the settings throughout the day. lol I try not to mess with it at all if possible, but cold is cold. I have the same problem at 67-68 as I do at 72. I thought it was just me at 1st, until I had company over and they said something to me also. So, after it has run for a long time and I notice its blowing nothing but cold air, I will change the setting either up or down depending on how cold it has already gotten according to Tstat. I move it up to call for heat, until the second heat icon appears and I hear the click where it is actually calling for it and it will bring the temp back up. I have a small room heater that we used while we waited on the 2nd compressor (the 1st was during the summer and after installing it lasted only 2 days and was burned up again), so I use it sometimes and just cut the temp down until I hear the fan shut down. Having the new compressor in now for almost 3 weeks, the entire system was flushed and charged back up, and I was told the dryer was located in the wrong spot causing all the problems. I'm not sure if you knowing that helps at all but I thought I would inform you just in case. We have had some really cold nights, especially when Superstorm Sandy was causing so much trouble, and then some that it's actually warmer outside than in my house with the heat running. I know heat pumps can't keep up when the temp drops too cold, but it shouldn't have trouble when it's not that cold. So that's why I figured it was probably the thermostat faulty. Then when I seen the wiring at the unit and knowing where the wires were connected on the tstat terminals, it raised some questions and caused me some concern. In all my experience I have never seen the wires cris cross, where W2 was connected to E in the tstat (unless jumpered) and W1 (which wasnt shown wired in the units diagram) was connected to W2 at the tstat. At this point it has been since June, but feels like forever since I had to start sleeping in a chair beside my sons room, whose only 4 and a BEAR when not well rested, so the window A/C and now the little heater can keep us as comfortable as possible in both the living room and his bedroom. I am looking forward to having my feet up again and laying flat. So you can imagine my disappointment when initially the heat 1st came on and heated my home, then went to freezing again because it started blowing cold. Again, I appreciate your help!!
#7
12-09-12, 10:09 PM
Oh man, not the compressor again
Sorry I haven't posted back sooner. My son got sick, then I followed. 
Under the circumstances, I had to bite the bullet and have someone come out, and it turns out that my unit had a leak, hence all the cold air when it tried to run, and for long periods until the temp dropped enough to call for aux heat. I just had that fixed Friday evening, and low n behold... tonight I began hearing the dreaded squealing from the compressor again. This is the 3rd compressor since last April, the 2nd lasting less than 2 days. I had no AC all summer, and no heat until November... and now this. Thank the Lord that tonight is really mild!! I pulled the disconnect 'again'... and I am just ready to give up all hope on this unit. But the tech that came out agreed the wiring was right, although he didn't explain why as I had hoped he would. Any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I really can't afford to replace this right now, nor in the near future. But I am ready to give my right leg (not that its doing me any good right now anyways lol) to not have to worry if my son and I will be warm enough. :'( What in the world would keep causing each compressor to crap out??
Under the circumstances, I had to bite the bullet and have someone come out, and it turns out that my unit had a leak, hence all the cold air when it tried to run, and for long periods until the temp dropped enough to call for aux heat. I just had that fixed Friday evening, and low n behold... tonight I began hearing the dreaded squealing from the compressor again. This is the 3rd compressor since last April, the 2nd lasting less than 2 days. I had no AC all summer, and no heat until November... and now this. Thank the Lord that tonight is really mild!! I pulled the disconnect 'again'... and I am just ready to give up all hope on this unit. But the tech that came out agreed the wiring was right, although he didn't explain why as I had hoped he would. Any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I really can't afford to replace this right now, nor in the near future. But I am ready to give my right leg (not that its doing me any good right now anyways lol) to not have to worry if my son and I will be warm enough. :'( What in the world would keep causing each compressor to crap out??
#8
12-09-12, 10:19 PM
Sorry, the fan set to auto is the very 1st thing I had checked regarding the fan constantly running. Even though I don't understand why the W2 & W1 from the unit are correct, I did have heat once the leak was fixed and without the fan running constantly. So it was low or no gas that the fan continued to run all the time blowing cold air. -Now the compressor cries for help. Thanks for being patient!!!! and thank you in advance for anything else you may be able to shed light on.
#9
12-10-12, 06:09 AM
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If this was just replaced, I wouild call the company again..
Something is not right for causing your compressor to go out that often. Is dealer a joe blow company?? YOu may be need to find another company to get to the bottom of this.
Not fun to be sick! Hope you are all feeling better!
Something is not right for causing your compressor to go out that often. Is dealer a joe blow company?? YOu may be need to find another company to get to the bottom of this.
Not fun to be sick! Hope you are all feeling better!
