Replacing Honeywell T6169B4017/U thermostat


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Old 08-08-14, 01:03 AM
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Replacing Honeywell T6169B4017/U thermostat

Hi! I have a condo that has convector heating and cooling in each room (3 total). Currently the thermostats for each of them are the Honeywell T6169B4017/U. The heating and cooling is switched over by the building seasonally.

I'm looking for something that I can control digitally. Any suggestions that would be a "drop in" replacement that are digital (with a digital set point) would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!
 
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Old 08-08-14, 09:57 AM
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I guess I should add that the line voltage is 120. Or so says the management company when I asked them. I'm having problems finding a 120 line voltage digital heat AND cool thermostat. The digital ones all seem to be heat only or 220 only.
 
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Old 08-08-14, 10:41 AM
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Have you looked into the Honeywell SuitePro thermostats?
 
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Old 08-08-14, 11:55 AM
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I found this one.

https://customer.honeywell.com/en-US...=TB6575A1000/U

In one of the reviews I found online the person said they had the same kind of heating and cooling system as me. They said to get it to work they had to "twist the hot and cold leads together".

I'm thinking of going ahead and getting one. But I'm not sure how I would install it to work the way the reviewer said. Any advice on how to wire the TB6575A with my current setup?

Right now the T6169B4017/U has three wires going to it - black (line), blue (cooling), yellow (heating). I don't see a neutral line. Also, the blue and yellow wires are tied together by a wire nut before they get to the thermostat. So I'm guessing the blue and yellow wires are actually just the neutral and when the thermostat trips either to hot or cold it completes the circuit?

Here's the installation guide for the TB6575A: https://customer.honeywell.com/resou...0s/62-0278.pdf

I'm thinking using it like in Fig. 9 but just not sure how to hook it up. I'm guessing L and N for sure. My fan speed selection is done at the convector itself so I don't think I need to hook up any of those lines or do I? Also, the "valve" line. I'm not sure what to do with that.
 

Last edited by Matt Gundy; 08-08-14 at 12:51 PM.
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Old 08-08-14, 02:05 PM
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I agree with your new selection.



How many wires do you have at the existing thermostat? 2 or 3?
 
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Old 08-08-14, 03:23 PM
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Here are a few pics of the wiring to the existing thermostat. It looks as though this thermostat just opens or closes the line voltage and does nothing with the neutral.



 
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Old 08-08-14, 03:31 PM
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Looks like a hot wire, a neutral and a valve control wire.
I would measure from black to white in that j box.
 
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Old 08-08-14, 03:50 PM
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I will and I was thinking the same. Say it is 120 between the black and white wire. So in Figure 9 of the installation guide:

https://customer.honeywell.com/resou...0s/62-0278.pdf

I was thinking white goes to N, black goes to L, and red (either yellow or blue) goes to W/Y on the TB6575A. Does that sound right? My wonder is do valve control lines handle 120?
 
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Old 08-08-14, 04:12 PM
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Yes, high voltage control valves are available. (but I don't like them because water and high voltage seem to be a bad match when I am piping in chill water fancoils)

The Barber Coleman MA-5210 is the high voltage actuator that I run across the most. If I ever had to replace them I'd go back with the low voltage MA-5213 since the buildings that I work in usually have low voltage stats.

There is a couple of high rises that I work in that have your old stat.
 
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Old 08-08-14, 04:40 PM
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I was thinking white goes to N, black goes to L, and red (either yellow or blue) goes to W/Y on the TB6575A. Does that sound right?
Yes. I was initially thinking that you would need to refer to figure 11 and use a jumper but since you can configure the stat to energize the W/Y terminal for heating and cooling you are correct.
Refer to figure 9.

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Old 08-08-14, 05:36 PM
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Thank you SOOOO much Houston! I have one of these ordered and coming my way. I'll let you know how the install goes.

Thanks again!
 
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Old 08-09-14, 06:05 AM
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This post kind of confused me. Does the thermostat work by sending 120 to the W/Y or Y/A line depending on whether heating or cooling? Is it just a switch, so to speak, in there? If that's the case I think I won't fry anything.
 
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Old 08-09-14, 12:57 PM
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It is just a switch.

The single valve system seems strange to me. Does the building send you notice when you will no longer have heat or cooling?

We require cooling almost year round with some heating requirements mixed in, in the winter.

I work on 4 pipe units with 2 control valves or 2 pipe chill water units with electric heat. I worked on a 2 pipe chill water system that used a gas furnace yesterday.
 
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Old 08-09-14, 01:58 PM
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I'm in VA. So we have cooling during the summer until September or so. Then the building notifies us that it is switching over to heat. They give us about a weeks notice. It's an either or system.

I'm not sure how that works with the boilers and chillers though.
 
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Old 08-09-14, 05:34 PM
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Just installed it. Works great!

Thanks again Houston. You were an incredible help!
 
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Old 08-09-14, 05:51 PM
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That is great news.
Thanks for posting back with your results.
 
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Old 02-14-16, 02:56 PM
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Hi i live in DC and have almost the exact same application BUT i have only 2 wires from the wall.

They measure 120 between them, when i connect them to the HOT and common the unit starts but won't fire the fan.
tried to twist the orange for the valve with the white for the com and it will short something because everytime the relay will close the unit restarts...

Is there something to do to make this work? all i want is the unit to start the fan when the temp goes under a certain degree when it's on heating and vice versa when it's on cooling.
 
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Old 02-14-16, 03:06 PM
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Welcome to the forums.

You haven't given us much info to work with. Are you saying that you have the same exact system as above ? If not.... you should be in a new thread so as not to confuse the topic.

You have two wires coming out of the wall..... all the thermostat can do is to connect them. If connecting them together does not do what it's supposed to then it is not a stat problem.
 
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Old 02-14-16, 03:15 PM
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Yes i have the exact same system and problem.
Trying to replace an old thermostat to a Honeywell TB6575A.
I have a 2 pipe system with no control over the fan (no wires)

The old thermostat works good and the system works, i wanted to replace an old analog to a new digital that will keep a more accurate temp in the room as the old one isn't.
There isn't a problem with the fan itself.

The problem is i can't figure how to wire the TB6575A to work with just 2 wire application.
 
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Old 02-14-16, 03:27 PM
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I was checking out that stat. This is a little out of my normal work scope. That stat calls for a hot wire and a neutral. That means you need to have three wires at the stat.

Do you have any other wires in the box..... like two whites connected together like the other poster has ?

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Old 02-14-16, 03:33 PM
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That's what i was confused at the beginning because on his old stat he had the same connection method as mine... but then i read the text 3 more times and understood he did connect those white wires too.

My box don't have those white wires or any other wire in this aspect, just 2.
 
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Old 02-14-16, 03:37 PM
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Unfortunately..... the stat you have requires a neutral connection which you don't have.
 
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Old 02-14-16, 03:37 PM
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See attached what I currently have.
 
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Old 02-14-16, 03:40 PM
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Neutral means ground? am i missing the ground or the valve wire? how come the old one can fire the fan?
 
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Old 02-14-16, 03:43 PM
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That's unusual. 120v wiring is supposed to be contained inside of a junction box. I don't see any box there..... just a cut-in ring.

You need a 120v heating and cooling thermostat. Let me check on what you can use.

The old one is just a mechanical switch..... just like a light switch in the room. There is nothing in it that requires power. Your new stat needs continuous power to run the electronics.
 
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Old 02-14-16, 03:50 PM
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It might be unclear from the pic but there's a junction box.

Ok thanks.

There isn't any way to rewire those or adding a ground to allow it to work?
 
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Old 02-14-16, 03:53 PM
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I'm going to keep checking for you. I haven't found an electronic one yet that will work for you.
My partner, Houston, may have an idea too.


Ahh..... I see the box now. It looks like you may have conduit there. If you knew where that pipe went to..... like to the fan unit..... you may be able to pull a white wire into the pipe.
 
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Old 02-14-16, 04:01 PM
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The fan unit is 5 feet away from it, i might be able to pull the junction box but i need to understand first what i'm missing or if we can do some kind of rewire/intersection so the stat has power but it shuts it off after it.
 
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Old 12-11-16, 07:45 PM
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Hi All,

This forum is great! I am in the same situation as doribak. I have a 2 pipe system with no control over the fan (no wires)Trying to replace an old thermostat to a Ecobee is this even possible or the only upgrade is Honeywell TB6575A?

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Old 12-11-16, 07:58 PM
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If you want to go from high voltage controls to low voltage controls it isn't too difficult.

I have installed low voltage controls on hundreds of chill water air handlers.

What is the horsepower of the fan motor?
If it is 1/2 HP or less a fan center would be the easiest solution.

If it is 3/4HP or greater I recommend a transformer and a contactor.

I don't see a control valve on that piping. Does the chill water always run through the unit?
I have seen that a few times in an old apartment building.
 
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Old 12-18-16, 12:43 PM
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Hi,

Thanks for replying. It says that the blower motor is 0.6 FLA and 0.03HP (not sure what this means) We also have the unit cooling during the summer until September or so. Then the building notifies us that it is switching over to heat. They give us about a weeks notice. It's an either or system. So chill water in the summer and warm in the winter. I've attached more photos. I'm renovating my unit so I think it's the best time to wire it.
 
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Old 12-18-16, 01:04 PM
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I've checked the Ecobee site and they said that Ecobee can only turn a fan on or off, it cannot control the variable speed of the fan.

https://www.ecobee.com/faq/is-ecobee...nd-modulation/

I also emailed Ecobee and they informed me as follows: The ecobee3 is designed to control 24VAC HVAC systems and cannot directly control line voltage equipment. An external line voltage to 24V transformer would be needed to power the ecobee3 and the appropriate 24V load contactors to be wired into the ecobee’s and your Fan Coil line voltage circuits. This won’t be a direct swap out of existing thermostat’s.

I'm not sure what they mean here. Thanks again for your comments.
 
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Old 12-18-16, 01:12 PM
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It means you'll have to add a transformer and relay to control the fan and power the transformer.
Does that unit have a hydronic control valve for the coil, or even a separate pump enable wire?
 
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Old 12-18-16, 04:08 PM
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Apparently no valves as jb says it's either heating or cooling... hot or cold water.
That brings me to the question..... if you aren't paying for the heated or chilled water why the wifi stat ?

What you want to do is very easy. Some basic electric theory will be needed.

In this post.... the member is doing the same thing you want to do. Control a 120v circuit with a smart thermostat. Check it out.

http://www.doityourself.com/forum/th...-24v-840t.html
 
 

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